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It'll buff out...
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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so I'm doing a full paint correction on my frost silver paint. It's my 2000 V6 mustang. Let's dive in.

I decided to do a test panel on the hood because I had some seriously bad swirls.


Hood was washed using GlossWorkz and a microfiber mitt with a gritguard bucket, really only needed one bucket its just the hood.


Dried with synthetic QD and a waffle weave.


General area of concern.


IPA wipe down. Diluted 1:1 70% IPA.


Brand new dual pile microfiber to buff off polishes.


Hard to capture on phone swirls.



Worst area of the car, swirls galore, like it was cleaned with scotch brite.


Weaponry lol.


I ended up taping the tapered edge after I realized I couldn't buff at that weird angle.
 

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It'll buff out...
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5,379 Posts
Discussion Starter #2

Ultimate compound.


Primed with synthetic QD.


Now here's a problem. After compounding, doing 2 full section passes, 5 passes in each full section pass. There is pitting everywhere. All the swirls are gone. But these little pits remain all over the paint!



Really hard to take pics with this phone. :/


I thought maybe I could polish out the pitting with d151 so I went at it.

Tangerine pad.


Thanks SON1C.


After another 2 full section passes(5 passes on speed 5 twice) the pitting remains. Not sure what to do. Maybe I need a heavier compound??




Any help appreciated.
 

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It'll buff out...
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5,379 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Maybe these pictures will help, used an led flashlight.



You can see the individual "pits" (maybe etching?)

Should I try to just compound more? I want to get this spot perfect before I go ahead with the whole car, I always rush now I'm taking my time. I want perfection.
 

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Yes, Make the rest look amazing and you might not notice it as much. You might be able to wet sand it out, but thats not something I would do, personally
 

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It'll buff out...
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5,379 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes, Make the rest look amazing and you might not notice it as much. You might be able to wet sand it out, but thats not something I would do, personally
Ok sounds like a good call. And yea I figured wet sanding would probably get it out but no way I'm going there. Thanks for the advice. I'll start really going on this tomorrow.
 

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Might be solvent pop marks. You are not going to be able to buff them out.
Those Purple MF from Autoality are the best damn MF out there..I love those things.
 

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Might be solvent pop marks. You are not going to be able to buff them out.
Those Purple MF from Autoality are the best damn MF out there..I love those things.
That's what I was thinking.
Op grab some 2000-2500 grit sandpaper wetsand it gently. Rebuff/polish.
 

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It'll buff out...
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5,379 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Might be solvent pop marks. You are not going to be able to buff them out.
Those Purple MF from Autoality are the best damn MF out there..I love those things.
I got one per your recommendation man! And I'm not gonna wet sand! I just want to make the car as new looking as possible then pay it off and sell it and get a wrx or gt. :D but this is my dd for at least another year. No sand paper going near my car :p
 

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Happy Man
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2,472 Posts
It looks just like sealant pop. I have yet to figure out how it happens but I'm going to try m105 on a yellow BnS pad or maybe a subuft pad.

I have a small amount of that on my hood and I can only see it at the right angles with worklights on it. To be completely honest Cyan pad with m105 and a lot of pressure did lessen how much I could see it.
 

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It'll buff out...
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Discussion Starter #12
I used quite a bit of pressure with ultimate compound and a cyan pad. And you're correct it did make it less noticeable. I'm just gonna live with it. I'm hoping after sealant and wax it'll be almost invisible. Fingers crossed.
 

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Happy Man
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m105 and a yellow BnS pad will cut a lot better than UC. UC doesn't have the cut that m105 has.
 

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Happy Man
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I have used m105 and Megs UC on cyan pads. . . m105 has more cut than any other compound people talk about on this forum. Yellow BnS pads will cut better than a cyan pad too if you are looking to go as far as you can.

m105 will remove 1200 grit sanding marks.
 

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Happy Man
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I doubt it's that thin if it hasn't already been corrected. Sealant pop is the clear popping so you obviously have plenty left or you wouldn't see it anymore, lol.
 

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It'll buff out...
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Discussion Starter #18
Alright. I think I might order some m105 and if I still need more cut ill order a buff n' shine. Thanks for all the info reps when I can give u reps.
 

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Happy Man
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No problem. I should have taken pictures of before and after of the sealant pop after m105. I didn't even think about it.
 

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It looks just like sealant pop. I have yet to figure out how it happens but I'm going to try m105 on a yellow BnS pad or maybe a subuft pad.

I have a small amount of that on my hood and I can only see it at the right angles with worklights on it. To be completely honest Cyan pad with m105 and a lot of pressure did lessen how much I could see it.
Solvent pop is caused when a car is painted..
The painter didn't follow correct flash times.
Usually 15 mins is a good time for the allow paint to flash (dry) in a booth around 85 degrees.
Obviously flash time will depend on paint makers recommendation and temperature of the paint booth as well as how wet the paint was laid down.
So if a painter is laying the clear and lays it real wet, and for example doesn't wait for the clear to properly flash and lays another coat it will cause solvent pop.

When paint cures gases need to escape the paint, if its not allowed to cure..(flash) the gases become trapped in the paint...when the car is detailed you're opening up that bubble but that also leaves the craters or pits.
 
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