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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so im doing a stock regular rebuild but adding an E cam (dont judge me, I live in cali, got to keep it legal), keeping the stock push rods and lifters, they were in good shape. My dilemma/question is when I go and torque the rocker arms down they move left and are off center the valve stem, not a whole lot but definitely noticeable. Also some have play when the valve is open but nice and tight when closed, is this normal? Thoughts? Opinions? Suggestions?
 

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Qwik Enuff
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When you say "some have play",do you mean theres a gap between the rocker & pushrod/valve stem or do they have a little side to side movement if you try to twist the rocker left to right,right to left?? Are you using a torque wrench or just a ratchet?? If youre using a ratchet,youre probably not getting them torqued to the recommended lbft setting.It wouldn't hurt to pull the distributer and prime the oil pump to make sure the lifters are filled.If you dont have a priming tool,you can use a deep well 6 point 1/4" drive 1/4 socket,2 long extensions & a drill to prime the oil pump.After you snap the socket & extensions together,use some electrical tape and wrap it around each connecting joint on the socket & extensions,that way they wont come apart when you try to pull them back off the oil pump driveshaft.After you attach the drill to an extension,move the direction lever to the reverse position.The drill needs to rotate ccw(reverse) to prime the pump.Once you see oil flowing out of the rocker,consider the lifters primed.
The easiest thing to use,for a visual reference, to verify each piston is at tdc,is the harmonic balancer with 4 white lines or dots drawn across the front.Just rotate the crank til the #1 piston is at tdc on the compression stroke.The 0° balancer mark should be aligned with the timing pointer.*Note* its easier to draw these lines if youve got the crank pulley out of the way,but it can still be done with the pulley bolted on too.Draw a straight line(using Witeout)from the 0° mark down to the bottom face of the balancer then draw another line horizontally.The picture at the bottom shows the balancer with marks.Each mark represents 90° of crank rotation.
With the #1 piston already at tdc,go ahead & torque both rockers down to 24-25ftlbs on #1 .Now slowly rotate the crank CW until the next white line is aligned with the timing pointer.Youve got the #3 piston at tdc now,so go ahead and torque both rockers down for #3 .Now rotate the crank again to the next white line and youve got the #7 piston at tdc now.Torque both rockers down for #7 .Continue rotating the crank and torqueing the remaining rockers down in the firing order until youre finished.
FO=1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the rockers have side to side play only when the valve is closed and I'm able to pick it up off the stem somewhat. The lifters are primed, they were soaking in oil for like 2 weeks. I used a torque wrench to torque them down. Here's some pics how they look after they've been torqued.
 

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Resident Know-it-all
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1. Never soak your lifters in oil, that's 60's technology. If they are pumped up when the engine starts they can cause a valve to contact a piston. 2. Have you noticed all the rockers are angled in the direction you are tightening them? That means the fulcrum is pivoting for some reason. Maybe the trough they sit in is missing or the pushrods are too short allowing the rocker to pivot? Not sure without being there to look at them. Should finger tighten till pushrod has slight drag with zero lifter movement, then go 3/4 to 1 turn to full torque.
 

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Rent Asunder!
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1. Never soak your lifters in oil, that's 60's technology. If they are pumped up when the engine starts they can cause a valve to contact a piston. 2. Have you noticed all the rockers are angled in the direction you are tightening them? That means the fulcrum is pivoting for some reason. Maybe the trough they sit in is missing or the pushrods are too short allowing the rocker to pivot? Not sure without being there to look at them. Should finger tighten till pushrod has slight drag with zero lifter movement, then go 3/4 to 1 turn to full torque.
Really? I've always soaked my hydraulic lifters in oil and then use a priming drive with a drill on the oil pump for 2 minutes prior to first start up.
 

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Really? I've always soaked my hydraulic lifters in oil and then use a priming drive with a drill on the oil pump for 2 minutes prior to first start up.
If you have an excess 9f piston to valve clearance it may not matter starting an engine with a pumped up lifter could cause piston to valve issues. That procedure is pretty old school.
 
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