Looking to upgrade and replace my current suspension. It's currently a bolt on GT.
My current suspension set-up consists of:
-Raceland Coilvers (Junk)
-MM Flsfc
-MM XD Rear Lower Control arms w/ Spring perch
-Eibach Camber Bolt
I have around 40K miles on it and it's currently my daily. It's very low, lower than my friends mustang with H&R Super Sports No-isos, P/f strut is already blown out. The car rides rough and can feel every bump on roads. Rear feels unstable going over train tracks or bumps on the road. Car is a street car with occasional track visits in the summer. List of mods in my garage
My future suspension build consists of:
-H&R Super Sports
-Bilstien HD struts and shocks
-MM CC Plates
-03/04 Cobra steering rack
-Bumpsteer tie rod ends
-03/04 Cobra Front Lower Control arms
-x2 lower ball joints
-Solid Steering rack Bushings
-MM XD Rear lower Control arms
-MM Flsc
-Replace bushing in OEM rear upper control arms
I'm not looking for it to ride like a luxury car but don't want it to ride like an old truck either. I was thinking the H&R ss paired with the bilsteins would be a whole lot better in handling/comfort than the Raceland Coilovers.
Anything you guys would recommend/suggest me changing?
I've read the suspension stickys.
I was thinking about doing MM Front Coilovers with UPR Tubular K frame and arms. But I'm worried on how my car will handle with Coilovers up front and springs in the back.
From what I read, cobra front lower control arms give you a better turn radius.
First, you already have experience with one junk company making products, why make the mistake again with UPR? Buy the originals (MM) and never look back. Expensive, yes, but waaaaaaaaaaay higher quality than the knock offs produced by Unauthorized Product Reproductions.
Second, coilovers up front and springs out back wont "ride bad" if you chose the appropriate spring rates front and rear. Spring location doesn't have that big of an impact on ride (handling is a different story), but proper spring rates do. If you are really curious, MM will be able to tell you what rear springs to pair with certain front springs if that is the route you want to go. Otherwise, front and rear coilovers will improve handling while giving an excellent ride quality at the ride height you are looking to run the car.
That's because the mm k is designed for autox or road racing which I already stated. Upr is a straight line k member not for the twisties. Have you had personal experiance with upr k? Also look at aje, qa1, and team z k members. They are all identical design. There only so may ways to design a k member that's drag oriented. That's why Griggs and mm are a more rugged design simply because they're engineered for autox.
---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:53 PM ----------
Also I wanted to add that anyone that can save a few bucks and have a setup that performs just as good as your more expensive parts is going to go that route. Upr parts work and have worked for many people. You do have some that do have issues but that happens with every mass produced part.
Thanks for all the info, the pretty much answered my decision on which tubular K frame I should choose. I'm leaning towards the MM over the UPR now since I see the big difference in the design and I'll be more of a street car that likes to see back roads.
Just my 2 cents, I autox on a UPR tubular K/a-arms. My turbo downpipe won't fit with an MM K.
MM pricing doesn't bother me a ton, because it is really nicely made stuff, but damn, at least give us free shipping. The shipping from them is stupid expensive.
OP, your list looks fine imo. Although why would you buy XD lowers if you already have a set?
IMO BC racing and neo motorsports are making coilovers for our cars now. Thats all the guys run at lapping events here now and I've been in cars with both and I can say they're fantastic for a street car. I plan on probably getting the BC racing coilovers.
Very much so this. BC Racing coilovers just don't have the same performance as other coilover kits on the market. If I was looking for coilovers for the SN95's and Fox platforms, MM would be the least expensive option I'd consider.
I'd recommend adding mm PHB to your list. It's the only way the rear will ever feel like it's under control.
If you are going to punch out the ball joints of the 03 cobra arms I'd go with Moog replacement front LCA's and save some $ (rockauto.com).
300# MM front coil over kit would compliment those Bilstein HD struts quite well and still be comfortable, and this would allow you to use MM LCA's down the line.
I have a Team Z drag oriented k member that looks pretty much identical to the UPR one.
Comparing the pictures of the MM and UPR k members it appears the main difference is extra triangulation in the MM one that strengthens the center tube section.
But I think if you use solid motor mounts then the motor and motor mount assembly provides that triangulation, so the theory is with the solid mounts the UPR/Team Z ones will be as stiff as the MM one.
I'll look into those if I end up just keeping my stock K member, and the reason I wanted to upgrade to a cobra rack, is cause my stock rack is leaking a bit from the right side. Figured I'd wait till a low mileage one pops up on a forum and hop on it
Honestly, unless your tracking your car/autocrossing pretty heavily, I wouldnt spend money on a k member. The cost of an MM k member is more than just 600 bucks. You have to buy coil-overs with it, a-arms and the correct dampers for the coil sleeves, if you dont have them already. Just my .02. I have a brembo caliper set and a k/member setup slated next for my car, but it sees track duty/autocross duty almost exclusively. I dont daily drive it.
If your planning to go the k member route, i would just get the aftermarket a-arms, see how you like it, and if you still want more, upgrade later. Also, I noticed you dont have any tires slated for an upgrade. Dont underestimate the power of a good tire. Worth their weight for the right set.
Side comment... Is a solid steering shaft dangerous on the street ?
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