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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright first off, I been doing alot of shopping for my sound system..
I'm working with a 1100W Memphis Bell Amp and a Clarion deck. Speaker wise, I already have a full MTX set that a friend gave to me. As for Subs, they were blown. So I been looking around for some decent ones at a reasonable price but can't seem to find any good in town. Looked online but I really don't understand some of it. Can anyone tell me the difference of what the RMS from the Max power means? And possibly direct me to a site with good prices for any good subs?

Acceleration..
My car makes this ticking sound.. its not noticable to much. But when im at a idle especially.. its like baby whistling. When I press down on the clutch, the noise stops some what. Also when Im driving, the lower gear im in.. the less I hear it.. Any ideas what that could be and if its a bad sign?

Headlights..
My headlights have become pretty like.. worn out I guess is the word.. The bulbs been replaced but the glass/plastic(w/e) is like all fogged up.. I was told to fix it, it had to be melted so its clear again.. but that don't sound right.. So.. any ideas for that? Or I better off getting new lights?..

XD Um.. thats all for now. Thanks for the help :p
 

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Google said:
RMS is an abbreviation that stands for "Root Mean Squared," and is a formula that is used to calculate an approximate average for the power an amplifier can continuously create. When used in reference to speakers or mostly for a speaker's max wattage in general, the term is used to signify the square root of the max wattage. For example: The speaker has 800 watts max, 400 watts RMS.
Copied paste stright off of google search as I couldn't think of a way to put it. RMS would be what the output is on average and peak power what it tops out at in a nut shell.


As for the ticking/whining problem it sounds like its your throw out bearing.

And the lights can easily be fixed with a restoration kit. Basically buffing a compound onto the plastic that restores it to good as new. Plenty of threads on here and on other forums that give step by step instructions. It's pretty easy though and you should not waste your money on new ones.
 

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For your speaker system you ALWAYS look at RMS and not peak...

If you ever notice shitty amps never have RMS ratings just peak rating... So that's why you get idiots with 5400 watt boss amps running there mouth until a system running off a true 500 watt rms comes and shuts them down.

Ticking could be TOB

And the head lights, if you can't de-glaze them new ones ftw!
 

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Alright first off, I been doing alot of shopping for my sound system..
I'm working with a 1100W Memphis Bell Amp and a Clarion deck. Speaker wise, I already have a full MTX set that a friend gave to me. As for Subs, they were blown. So I been looking around for some decent ones at a reasonable price but can't seem to find any good in town. Looked online but I really don't understand some of it. Can anyone tell me the difference of what the RMS from the Max power means? And possibly direct me to a site with good prices for any good subs?

Acceleration..
My car makes this ticking sound.. its not noticable to much. But when im at a idle especially.. its like baby whistling. When I press down on the clutch, the noise stops some what. Also when Im driving, the lower gear im in.. the less I hear it.. Any ideas what that could be and if its a bad sign?

Headlights..
My headlights have become pretty like.. worn out I guess is the word.. The bulbs been replaced but the glass/plastic(w/e) is like all fogged up.. I was told to fix it, it had to be melted so its clear again.. but that don't sound right.. So.. any ideas for that? Or I better off getting new lights?..

XD Um.. thats all for now. Thanks for the help :p
Yea with the headlights i suggest just go and get some new ones! SMoked out headlights are awesome with some HID bulbs!

I'd have to agree with every1 about the Throw out bearing too!
 

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if you don't want the $20 kit from autozone (you need a drill) to do your lights, wal mart will do it for $20.

TOB is throw out bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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I will also add that even a crappy sub in an excellent (WELL SEALED sealed enclosure, WELL TUNED ported enclosure, etc.) will make ALL the difference in its sound reproduction. I've put great subs in a crappy box and gotten poor performance, and put cheap-o subs from an audio expo (think they were Ultimate Audio) in a great ported box and sounded awesome. Sealed boxes make better control for power handling and tight bass, but ported boxes tuned correctly will peak where you need them to. As far as learning the terminology/understanding, check out the12volt.com for electrical and beginner understanding of subs can be left to crutchfield.com; it's all free info to get you started. Pairing a box with the right volume for the subwoofer chosen can make a huge difference in performance...matching an amp for your application (i.e. not going for big wattage but for cleaner output and constant power handling--RMS--with the least harmonic distortion) makes it better. Good luck, man, and make it a clean install!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Even with a HID headlight would they be dim? My current lights are stock and are dim anyways so that wouldn't bother me :D And you did your own install or professional?
 

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Its very easy, just do it your self. The hardest part is aligning them. I never did mine but they still flood the road, I just get high beamed all the time.
 

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