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KCCO
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5,980 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
K guys I need your help/advice. First when I got my née system about a month ago, I got a kenwood sub that blew (rms of sub matched to rms of amp) and I had to pay almost 20 bucks to ship it back to sonicelectronix in Cali (20 bucks for stupid **** like this is hard for a college kid). So now that I'm still awaiting the reimbursement from that, I got a used JL sub because I can't afford to keep buying new stuff if it keeps breaking. So this sub worked for about a week and now it's not working. I don't think it's blown becaus it works sporadically. It seems more like a loose connection inside because it will fork for like 5 minutes then stop, but if I push down on the cone, it will vibrate. As soon as I take m hand off the cone, it will stop working again. I'm mad, broke, and beatless :(. Does anybody know anyone in the buffalo are preferably that can fix it, or is there a way to fix it myself? I wouldn't know how to take it apart, but I am very good at wiring as I wired everything in m car. It is a discontinued model, JL W3V2 4 ohm dvc 300 rms at 4 ohms, and I have an alpine mrp-m500 amp which is 300 watts rms at 4 ohms. If anybody can walk me through taking it apart and mako sure he connections are good, I'd appreciate it.
 

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Not to bag on you, but this is why i spend some money in local stores. years ago when I moved to Virginia I found an audio shop that had decent selection. I bought a sub and amp from them and after a week the sub blew. I took it back to them and got a replacement for free. a week later that blew. they pulled both my amp and my sub and looked at both. come to find out my amp was bad and was causing my issues. they replaced both for free. no shipping, no waiting.

That said, I know you can find guides online for re-coning your sub and what not, but there is no guarantee that you will get the surround and cone back in factory spec. I reconed one sub and it never sounded the same.

I know, not really what you wanted to hear, hell not even really what you asked.... Just thought I would share my .02 since everyone wants my money these days... :)
 

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i do not believe there are recones for a jl w3. sounds like it could be a bad tensil lead or the coil has popped. look into the vents above the magnet. it should br a rose color. if it is black, its got a bad coil. thecoil could have a break in it too. if it is a tensil lead you can try and repair it if possible (solder) but aside from that its pretty much done. have you tested the coils to see if your still at the proper ohm load? and just because u match rms on the sub to rms on the amp doesnt mean everything is good, you need to listen for distortion. gains need to be set accordinly and properly.
 

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i do not believe there are recones for a jl w3. sounds like it could be a bad tensil lead or the coil has popped. look into the vents above the magnet. it should br a rose color. if it is black, its got a bad coil. thecoil could have a break in it too. if it is a tensil lead you can try and repair it if possible (solder) but aside from that its pretty much done. have you tested the coils to see if your still at the proper ohm load? and just because u match rms on the sub to rms on the amp doesnt mean everything is good, you need to listen for distortion. gains need to be set accordinly and properly.
Pretty much what he said. I used to design speakers at Harman and if you have an electrical issue in the speaker, there's not a ton you can do about it.

Check the resistance from the terminals under normal conditions. Then gently push on the cone while measuring resistance, see if it changes. Keep in mind, a 4 ohm sub will not measure 4 ohms on a DMM. I should be close, but it won't be 4 (most likely 3.x ohms). The "ohm" rating on a sub is an impedance rating, not a resistance rating.

If you're getting a high resistance, next check the resistance on the lead wires. This will determine if the solder has cracked at the terminal board (a VERY common stress location). If that's the case, it's very fixable. But you have to be careful to solder them back how they were or else the leads will slap the cone when it plays.

If you have a break inside the VC, you might as well give it up. Nothing short of rebuilding the speaker is going to fix it.

I would also like to reiterate the point that just because RMS of the sub and amp match does NOT mean you cannot blow anything. There's a simple way to not blow anything. Actually LISTEN to the music from the speakers. When you start to hear distortion/clipping, turn it down a little bit. You can mismatch speakers and amps and as long as nothing's distorting/clipping, 98% of the time it'll play just fine.
 

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KCCO
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Discussion Starter #5
Alright thanks guys, I guess I learned my lesson. Based on whatt its doing though (works sometimes, then when it doesnt if I push on the cone, it vibrates), do you think it would be more a problem with the voice coil or a broken solder?
 
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