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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i aquired an aeromotive a1000 and a pressure regulator. now im looking to swap to a sump return style setup. I KNOW that im not at a power level that requires this setup. I KNOW its wasted money.. but its so cool and i wont have to upgrade ever again, and i can always use it for something later.. that being said, i have some questions. late modelresto has two options for their sumps. the ones that you modify the stock tank with. i will inset a link below. the outlet size options are 1/2 inch outlet fitting or 3/4 outlet fitting... which one would match the a1000 for fittings lines ect??? help would be greatly appreciated.. im new to fuel upgrades be nice!

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/1999-04-Mustang-Fuel-System-Components
 

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Head Unicorn
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It depends what feed line and return line you run. You can go up to a -10 fitting with the 1/2 which will be more than sufficient. You really wouldn't need anymore than a -8 realisticly. You do understand theres more to this than a pump and regulator right? All the fittings for the lines, the lines themselves (you'll need a feed and return) inline filter new rails with fittings as well. Then you'll need a tuner to disable the returnless fuel function in the EEC as well. Pretty big expense. Having the pump and regulator is about 25% of the total expense.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It depends what feed line and return line you run. You can go up to a -10 fitting with the 1/2 which will be more than sufficient. You really wouldn't need anymore than a -8 realisticly. You do understand theres more to this than a pump and regulator right? All the fittings for the lines, the lines themselves (you'll need a feed and return) inline filter new rails with fittings as well. Then you'll need a tuner to disable the returnless fuel function in the EEC as well. Pretty big expense. Having the pump and regulator is about 25% of the total expense.
thats all in the plans. looking seriously at the long term goals. i found the pump and regulator so i figured i would start there.. and i read a little on some old posts, this is supposedly the right way to build a fuel system. some day, lets say i wants 6-700whp, will the 1/2 and -8 still be okay? im not pulling the car apart unless i have everything planned and purchased before hand. i am well aware of the costs. i figure i cant make up my mind for a power adder, but fuel delivery is more or less the same no matter what. and i found an opportunity to save money on the heart of the system
 

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Head Unicorn
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Will -8 still be okay? Maybe. May need -10, but what you have to consider is that pressure drops as line diameter increases. It's hard to say that a certain item will support 700 hp without knowing how that engine arrives at 700. A twin turbo injected motor will need much more pump and pressure than a carburated big block. In reading Aeromotives info that pump is submersible and will support 1000 hp injected.... and that it has -10 fittings. Those flow numbers will be based on -10 fuel line as well. That's going to be some serious overkill and a lot of money for no reason. I'm all for going return, I hate returnless as well. However I'm not about to drop $1500 to convert to return for no reason (I actually ordered everything and had the parts in my hand when I changed my mind and returned them all last year). You'd be much better off accumulating all of the supporting parts (you're going to find out what $700 worth of aluminum fuel fittings cost too) and having everything on hand and ready for install when you have the engine/power adder combo ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Will -8 still be okay? Maybe. May need -10, but what you have to consider is that pressure drops as line diameter increases. It's hard to say that a certain item will support 700 hp without knowing how that engine arrives at 700. A twin turbo injected motor will need much more pump and pressure than a carburated big block. In reading Aeromotives info that pump is submersible and will support 1000 hp injected.... and that it has -10 fittings. Those flow numbers will be based on -10 fuel line as well. That's going to be some serious overkill and a lot of money for no reason. I'm all for going return, I hate returnless as well. However I'm not about to drop $1500 to convert to return for no reason (I actually ordered everything and had the parts in my hand when I changed my mind and returned them all last year). You'd be much better off accumulating all of the supporting parts (you're going to find out what $700 worth of aluminum fuel fittings cost too) and having everything on hand and ready for install when you have the engine/power adder combo ready to go.
i thank you for all the info and personal experience. you have repeatedly been a huge help for just about every question ive ever posted on here. but the more i look into things the more i feel like my car is a waste of time and energy. not your fault at all. its just always a dissapointment to realize im not a millionaire. fml:facepalm:
 

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i thank you for all the info and personal experience. you have repeatedly been a huge help for just about every question ive ever posted on here. but the more i look into things the more i feel like my car is a waste of time and energy. not your fault at all. its just always a dissapointment to realize im not a millionaire. fml:facepalm:
LOL. A lot of my advice is based on things I wasted money on when I first got into racing. I've dropped untold thousands of dollars on **** that I had no business buying. It's been a long road to learn what works and what I need. I just hate to see you or anybody else launch into a $1500 fuel system that isn't necessary. That $1500 could be spent elsewhere that you'd really enjoy it and see some results. That being said, if your ultimate goal is gobs of power....... accumulate those parts. You have a pump and a regulator.... next month buy the filters.... the next month buy a roll of fuel line. You see where thats going. I've lessened the blow of big purchases doing it that way and it also serves to keep you from putting something on your car that it doesn't need yet lol. You don't have to be a millionaire, you can make it work just spend your money on parts in a calculated manner.
 

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I think it is way smarter making a return fuel system.
It will save you money over all the **** you have to buy
to make the returnless handle bigger hp.
 

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Noobish Question im sure but can some one please explain this returnless-return-sump-ect.. Im not understanding, thanks in advance just trying to get an understanding on why people do what they do.
 

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BYAHHHH!
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check out Glenns Performance
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Noobish Question im sure but can some one please explain this returnless-return-sump-ect.. Im not understanding, thanks in advance just trying to get an understanding on why people do what they do.
the factory setup is a returnless with an in tank pump. a return system sends unused fuel back to the tank, which ( i believe) is control by a pressure regulator.. i think this maintaines fuel pressure better during rapid changes in fuel needs like shifting fast and sudden boost changes. others may know more advantages. the stock system just relys on the pump speeding up and slowing down according to fuel needs. it seems that for racing situations the return system is a much better performer. ive even seen this system on boats for high performance and drag racing boats. offshore to lake boats with outboards.. its a very versatile setup.
 

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BYAHHHH!
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One stop shop and good quality. I am getting a fore setup I think with intake pumps. But it gives you an idea what u need
 
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the factory setup is a returnless with an in tank pump. a return system sends unused fuel back to the tank, which ( i believe) is control by a pressure regulator.. i think this maintaines fuel pressure better during rapid changes in fuel needs like shifting fast and sudden boost changes. others may know more advantages. the stock system just relys on the pump speeding up and slowing down according to fuel needs. it seems that for racing situations the return system is a much better performer. ive even seen this system on boats for high performance and drag racing boats. offshore to lake boats with outboards.. its a very versatile setup.
Thank you, That **** is so expensive lol, when is that really needed?
 

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-8 feed and -6 return will be more then suffecient for fuel delivery and return. Kurgans 1400RWHP race car is feed by -8 fuel so Im certain it is more then sufficient.
 

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Unless your running e85 and then the extra volume doesnt hurt.
I run a -10 feed and -6 return.
 

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Unless your running e85 and then the extra volume doesnt hurt.
I run a -10 feed and -6 return.
I run E-85 on -8 with 3 340LPH pumps feeding the lines -10 is just way to much overkill.
 

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I dont have a flow chart, But in the past I have used a flow matrix for certain enginering projects, and over the years I have learned that bigger is not always better when it comes to pressurized liquid flow. What im saying is that our fuel pumps need a certain amount of restriction to allow the pump to work in its efficiency range. When we provide a hose that is 4 times bigger then what the pump was designed for it will over work the pump just the same because the pump will struggle to maintain fuel pressure. IE putting a 240LPH pump on a -10 is going to retire the pumps a little earlier then they were intended.
 

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Do you also think that a -6 is too much for for a single 240lph pump.
 
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