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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Well I've done every thing you can do to these cars besides cam and a blower so ... why not supercharge it? It's always been a dream of mine and with the financial means to finally do it I want to do it smart.

Now I know this topic has been discussed to the high heavens but I want to ensure I do this smart and you guys have some actual first hand experience. First off, I'd like to go new. Yeah I know there is an added cost but peace of mind for me is big. Second, I'm leaning toward a procharger kit simply because they supply a intercooler. I want a bolt on kit that I won't have to fight (like having to piece together). Third, I'm looking for ease of install. Not looking to drop my fuel tank so hopefully a boost a pump work?

Current mods to consider...

Will my strut tower brace affect clearance?
I want something to fill in that gap on my cobra bumper.
What gauges am I looking at here?

I'm looking to install it, limp or tune it to a dyno tuner and have fun. 400hp. 410 gears. Looking for a street car to have fun with. Not looking to track it. Oh yeah 93 octane is available here. I have a sct tuner already.

Can anyone lay out a readers digest, things to look for, things to consider, and help me out?

Also I'd love for it to blow off. I believe I need a slot style maf for this but again need help.

Full mod list in my sig.

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I would highly recommend dropping the tank and upgrading the pump to a Walbro TU-229 HP2 pump or similar. If you want to do it right like you are saying just upgrade the pump. It will be enough pump for 400wh.

I love my procharger, can't go wrong with it. Get the 3 core intercooler off the bat. I have the 2 Core and it's fine but I'm at the limit of it already...I bought my kit used FYI...

Junk your strut tower brace....if you want to keep it, it should still fit with the procharger kit.

I personally advise to go to a Slot Style MAF from the get-go but not a necessity. Either way you may need a bigger MAF or a diablo MAFia.

If you go Procharger and buy brand new I think they supply a tune so you can run on that tune until you get the dyno tune. I could be wrong as I bought mine used...

If you have the option, upgrade to the D1 trim and pulley up to a 4inch pulley. We all know once you go boost you will want to forge the bottom end and run more boost.

Centri installs are super easy.

Invest of some good tires with your 4.10s...ask me how I know. (I'm currently installing 3.73s due to my 4.10s being way too much gear with the blower now lol).

A few things I did off the bat that were not necessary...went to a Slot Style MAF (BA5000), 60lb injectors, the Procharger Open Bullet BOV (vented to atmosphere), TU229-HP2 pump assembly and Vortech Boost-A-Pump (I'm at 440whp and only at 70% dtc on the pump at 6300 rpm on 12psi).
 
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US Air Force (retired)
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GBPackerfan bought parts expecting to upgrade. I didn't. I just bought the kit. There are tuner kits and full kits. I bought a new P1SC full kit because I didn't want to run around looking for parts. I agree with the upgrade to a 3 core intercooler. It allows you to run a larger pulley for the same boost.

I did not do the install myself but had a tuner install it but there were still problems. The biggest was the underdrive pulleys. The previous owner had installed them. The head unit simply would not physically fit because of the oversized water pump pulley. The small crank pulley would also lower boost. I did not have the original pulleys so I bought a new crank pulley and had an electric water pump installed.

A second problem was the chip supplied with the kit. It was Diablosport. The installer could only tune SCT. So I had to buy a new chip. The original is sitting in my garage unused. Everyone is using handhelds now days so that shouldn't be a problem.

The kit came with 42 lb. injectors and a 255 lph fuel pump. The MAF housing was for a stock MAF. My stock MAF almost worked. I thought it had but the installer had tuned the car rich in the middle so that it didn't lean out at the top. I didn't like that so after a few months I bought a Diablosport MAFia and had the car retuned. The problem isn't that the stock MAF isn't big enough. It is. It will provide a 0-9 volt output. The problem is that the computer cannot accept an input greater than 5 volts. The MAFia rescales the MAF's output so that the computer can understand it.

Some people go Lightning MAFs and slot style MAFs but it isn't necessary. A stock MAF/MAFia combo is advertised to work up to 800 rwhp. If I remember correctly one tuner said that he had tuned that combo to 1000 rwhp.

You are going to need to change the fuel pump. Some people were maxing out the 255 lph and using boost a pumps with them. I've never needed it. I'm pretty sure its maxed out but the 255 is still going strong. If I ever replace it I will go bigger but there wasn't anything bigger at the time.

I bought two gauges, boost and fuel pressure, and changed the instrument cluster bezel so it looks almost factory. Pictures are in my garage. They are both fun but I have never seen maximum boost on the gauge. At 6000 rpm getting ready to shift I don't have time to look at the gauge. To me the fuel pressure gauge acts weird because of the returnless system. It jumps up and down with every gas pedal movement. I didn't expect that but it is completely normal.

The formula is 40 psi plus boost or 40 psi minus vacuum divided by two. 40 psi is the pressure differential across the face of the injector. Some people say to use 39 instead of 40. With the key on and the engine shut off the gauge reads 39-40. At idle with 18 in.hg. on the vacuum gauge it reads 30. And at 6000 rpm it should read 49. Glancing down I have seen 46 & 47.

The computer also adjusts fuel pressure in stop and go traffic on hot days to prevent vapor lock int he fuel rails. I have seen my gauge at 50 psi at idle. That is normal. I spent $300 learning that.

Pulley alignment is absolutely essential. I lost a bracket spacer (washer) the first time I changed the serpentine belt. Endless problems. It started shredding belts. I didn't realize what was wrong so I kept changing them. Pieces of belt fraying around damaged the front seal on the head unit and cracked my timing chain cover. I sent the head unit back to ProCharger to have the seal replaced and drove without it six weeks. I didn't need to change the tune or anything. All I did was move the air filter to the tube going to the intercooler. Even with a supercharger our cars operate in vacuum most of the time. I actually damaged two more seals before I got the pulleys aligned. I bought a pulley puller and changed them myself. They are easy to change.

I recommend getting a pulley alignment tool. It will save a lot of headaches.

There is an accessory you are going to want. Get the oil drain hose. I changed oil in the head unit several times before they came on the market. I had to cover the belt with paper towels because oil went everywhere. The oil drain hose makes things so simple.

P.S. I once drove down the highway at 5000 rpm just so see what it would do. The motor runs in vacuum even at 5000 rpm because the throttle isn't fully open. Everything worked fine but I blew the BOV by-pass tube off the cold air intake. Even though it can vent to atmosphere ProCharger routes it back to the CAI. The picture in my garage shows it attached.

The CAI is plastic. I put the hose back on and really clamped it down. Big mistake. I crushed the nipple on the CAI. The BOV couldn't vent. I started getting compressor surge. So I had to turn the hose around, plug the nipple and vent to atmosphere. I like it. I really like the whoosh sound when you let off the throttle. Below is a video of a dyno day I went to. My car is at 3:54. You can see the hose move when the BOV opens. It put down the second highest horsepower that day. A Cobra beat it.

If I can think of anything else that I've screwed up I'll let you know.

 

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As far as gauges, I have a boost and AFR gauge.
 

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Whenbi was supercharged I had a used procharger p1sc kit eith the 3 core intercooler, 3.7 pulley, 9 psi. I ran it blow thru with the open bullet valve, and an sct ba5000 maf in a 3" maf tube i got for like $70 off of treadstone. I used a divisionx striker pump 340 lph. Then switched to a bbk 300 pump setup and added a boost a pump for some extra zing. I used ford/siemens deks 47# injectors with the little adapters from AM. Worked really well.

As for gauging, i had a vacuum/boost gauge and an afr gauge(AEM). Good gauges, still use them to this day(as well as the MAF) despite completely switching my fuel system and going turbo.
 

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If youre buying a brand new kit, i would think that there would be a list od recommended or required parts that will be needed to complete it.

A stock maf and diablo mafia will definitely not support 800 in the usual 2.5" or 3" pipe they are in.

I know you dont want to drop the fuel tank, but a new fuel pump would be better suited than pushing a stock fuel pump beyond its means. Boost a pumps are bandaids.

As far as gauges, id recommed a boost gauge and wideband at a minimum.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Guys thank you all so much! This has truly helped me out. I've been starting to look at items and see what to do.

I really like the vortech but hate the reviews I'm seeing on the cx racing fmic that most people use.

I like how procharger includes the fmic but apparently vortech seems more reliable and efficient. This is a goal I've set to habe done by June

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I agree with everyone above, definitely do yourself a favor and get the Walbro TU-229 HP2, it just drops in with no mods necessary.

If you due decide to go vortech, I highly recommend the Mishimoto R intercooler, I had the CX racing 4" but ditched it and its a night in day difference in cooling and efficiency, you get what you pay for

A universal plumbing klt is pretty much all you need, I think CX racing offers a plumbing kit for our cars now.

I have a tonsil style MAF which are pretty rare but works and no issues tuning, slot is the way to go. All you need is a wideband and a boost gauge, I added an oil pressure and oil temp gauge for peace of mind. I havent really seen anyone run the MaFia system in a long time, talking to a few tuners it can be kind of a pain to deal with and its easier just upgrading the MAF

Tial Q BOV or any 50mm BOV, I think anything smaller and you will get compressor surge. If its too loud could always go Tial QR

Dont waste time and money on a power pipe, nothing but headaches especially in the rain, just put a filter on the head unit and call it a day, I gained 1psi by doing this. That being said as long as you have an efficient inter cooler a power pipe wont make a difference, my tuner has only really seen a significant difference on non inter cooled cars.

42lb injectors is all you need

my biggest concern is your 4.10 gears might make your experience a bit much. I'm at 482whp and 3.55 is the perfect gear IMHO. May never need 1st gear again lol, but its all preference I think blownstang02 has 4.10 gears and he seems to like it.

SCT tuner will be more readily available than a diablo tuner so there's that food for thought.
 

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I have a Vortech and will recommend Vortech. I had it on my GT and now it's on my Mach 1. I bought it used in 2010 with 4000 miles on it according to the prior owner. Haven't had a single issue. Never shredded a belt. I have the cxracing pipe kit, but had it cut and welded. I am using a Powerpipe and never had an issue with it. Daily drove the GT for 5 years with the blower in rain and snow with 4.10's. I'm running a Procharger 3 core intercooler simply because I got it used for $200 shipped. I would look at a Treadstone intercooler if you want new or alot have been seeing good results with the ON3 intercooler. I used a 255lph SVT focus pump and 40amp bap. 411rwhp my duty cycle was 76%. For the maf an PMAS HPX slot style. 42lb injectors are all you need and can be had for under $300 new. Boost gauge and wideband.
 

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I like how procharger includes the fmic but apparently vortech seems more reliable and efficient. This is a goal I've set to habe done by June

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I can only speak from my own experience but I have 130,000 miles on my ProCharger and it is still going strong. I have shredded belts but it was completely an installation error (my fault).

As far as effeciency, the gear ratio in a Vortech is different than a ProCharger. It requires a much smaller pulley to get the same boost. When this forum was more active there were constant complaints of belt slippage. Because of the shape of the vanes in a P1SC (I'm assuming they haven't changed in 11 years.) an entry level Vortech will make more maximum boost than an entry level P1SC. But that is only of use on a built motor. A stock 4.6 will blow up before you reach that.

People tend to like what they have. Do your research before you buy.
 

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I’ve personally been running a non intercooled Vortech V1S trim at low boost 5-6psi since 2010. The only issues I’ve had so far that I can think of is that I ad to replace my factory belt tensioner which I should have done from the start, the belt that came with the blower kit about 7 or so years ago and now I have to replace my oil feed line. I plan on doing that Monday when it warms up and drys out a bit. The red rubber line has developed a slow leak. They do make head units that are self contained though.


With your goals I figure you will be happy either way you go. Even with very low boost it will wake these cars up quite a bit, put them into the 12s with decent tires and make street tires useless with spirited driving. Good luck with the project.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone! I've settled on going the procharger route due to the intercooler and ease of install. I'm talking to a few local mustang shops to see who can get me the best deals. I plan on doing the install myself then getting it tuned. I've been setting aside money each week toward an account I opened called supercharger fund lol

Since I got this car 9 years ago my dream was to always seen it supercharged. Since it isn't my DD I got time to do my homework and take my time. I would like to buy new when I can but not waste money. I'm curious if you can call procharger and just buy pieces? Sometimes I feel like I'm thinking about this too much. I feel like with the amount of time I work I might just drop it off at a shop. The guy I always have do work when I need it is a procharger dealer. He quoted me a lot fully installed for 7k. That includes the tune and on new edges he says he aims for 400hp to keep it safe. He did say I might want to get 3.73s as 4.10s I'll spin all day.

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
4.10s will be fine for the power that youll be making.
Thanks man. That's my hope.

I haven't forgot about you on the rotors by the way. I haven't been home much. Just the other day I was home long enough to install my new steering wheel then I had to head back out. Work is killing me and the holidays. Just don't want people thinking I'm making promises and dropping off. I'll try to get them pictured and priced this week (shipping) and its already boxed. Just need to throw a label on it. I live right next to a ups and post office.

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Thanks man. That's my hope.

I haven't forgot about you on the rotors by the way. I haven't been home much. Just the other day I was home long enough to install my new steering wheel then I had to head back out. Work is killing me and the holidays. Just don't want people thinking I'm making promises and dropping off. I'll try to get them pictured and priced this week (shipping) and its already boxed. Just need to throw a label on it. I live right next to a ups and post office.

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Yeah i had 4.10s initially with the kenne bell and they were perfectly fine other than the fact i couldnt make a full 1/4 mile pass with 26" tires.

And i just figured you didnt want to sell to me or just flaked out so i stopped bothering you. Lol
 
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