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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on going with the Eibach pro kit lowering springs. lowers 1.5 in front and rear. I think its a good amount of lowering for my everyday driving. I dont want to have to worry with clearance issues.

I understand what bumpsteer is. But do i need these with the pro kit?

C/C Plates. What are these? and do i need them? i cant seem to find a good definition of them off google.

Shocks and Struts. Some people say if i lower my mustang then the ride is going to be worse then what it is now. but you dont need them unless you are lowering over 1.5". is this true?

If im missing anything else i would need to buy let me know

thanks.
 

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i would put new spring isolaters in theyre only like 40 dollars for all around

c/c plates let you adjust caster and camber. this gets throw out when you lower your car. and your factories have limited adjustability. i would get them. you can install everything try to get it aligned and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i would put new spring isolaters in theyre only like 40 dollars for all around

c/c plates let you adjust caster and camber. this gets throw out when you lower your car. and your factories have limited adjustability. i would get them. you can install everything try to get it aligned and see what they say.

what is caster and camber though? is this keeping the tires straight or angeling the wheels? Where can i find the isolaters?
 

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any where that sells coils will most likely have them or a dealer. upr had a deal on them in the vendors section i believe with springs for like 30
 

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Camber:
Camber is the tilting of the wheels from the vertical when viewed from the front of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheel tilts inward at the top, the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from the vertical. Camber settings influence the directional control and the tire wear.
Too much positive camber will result in premature wear on the outside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.
Too much negative camber will result in premature wear on the inside of the tire and cause excessive wear on the suspension parts.
Unequal side-to-side camber of 1° or more will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the most positive camber.

Caster:
Caster is the tilting of the uppermost point of the steering axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Caster influences directional control of the steering but does not affect the tire wear and is not adjustable on this vehicle. Caster is affected by the vehicle height, therefore it is important to keep the body at its designed height. Overloading the vehicle or a weak or sagging rear spring will affect caster.
When the rear of the vehicle is lower than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a more positive caster. If the rear of the vehicle is higher than its designated trim height, the front suspension moves to a less positive caster. With too little positive caster, steering may be touchy at high speed and wheel returnability may be diminished when coming out of a turn. If one wheel has more positive caster than the other, that wheel will pull toward the center of the vehicle. This condition will cause the vehicle to pull or lead to the side with the least amount of positive caster.
 

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I plan on going with the Eibach pro kit lowering springs. lowers 1.5 in front and rear. I think its a good amount of lowering for my everyday driving. I dont want to have to worry with clearance issues.

I understand what bumpsteer is. But do i need these with the pro kit?

C/C Plates. What are these? and do i need them? i cant seem to find a good definition of them off google.

Shocks and Struts. Some people say if i lower my mustang then the ride is going to be worse then what it is now. but you dont need them unless you are lowering over 1.5". is this true?

If im missing anything else i would need to buy let me know

thanks.
If you're going to DD the car then you shouldn't need CC plates. 1.5" drop should still be within the factory limits to set your car up for 1/2* to 1* negative caster. 1/2* would be good for just DD but if you will be going fast around corners or will be auto-xing occasionally then I would go 1* - 1 1/2* with the factory stuff. If you want to go more than that then you will need CC plates.

Again, if you will be driving the car fast then you will probably want a bumpsteer kit. Most people don't realize how fast things come at you when you are going fast. Bumpsteer is one of those things you don't want to have to be dealing with at speed. To me, even DDing the car, bumpsteer just makes the car handle better which makes driving more enjoyable. I guess if I had to define the difference it would be like comparing a kitchen knife to a scalpel. They both cut the same but you can do so much more precisely with a scalpel.

When you lower your car with springs and don't change out the struts/shocks essentially what you do is lessen the shock/strut travel by that much. If you are in a high speed turn I would think that you would want to have a little more travel and not bottom out the shock/strut although, depending on how stiff a spring rate you will be using, I doubt that this will happen.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you're going to DD the car then you shouldn't need CC plates. 1.5" drop should still be within the factory limits to set your car up for 1/2* to 1* negative caster. 1/2* would be good for just DD but if you will be going fast around corners or will be auto-xing occasionally then I would go 1* - 1 1/2* with the factory stuff. If you want to go more than that then you will need CC plates.

Again, if you will be driving the car fast then you will probably want a bumpsteer kit. Most people don't realize how fast things come at you when you are going fast. Bumpsteer is one of those things you don't want to have to be dealing with at speed. To me, even DDing the car, bumpsteer just makes the car handle better which makes driving more enjoyable. I guess if I had to define the difference it would be like comparing a kitchen knife to a scalpel. They both cut the same but you can do so much more precisely with a scalpel.

When you lower your car with springs and don't change out the struts/shocks essentially what you do is lessen the shock/strut travel by that much. If you are in a high speed turn I would think that you would want to have a little more travel and not bottom out the shock/strut although, depending on how stiff a spring rate you will be using, I doubt that this will happen.

John
Ok so if i jsut use the factory C/c plates then after the install of the springs i should get the car aligned and when they align the steering that are aligning it by messing around with the C/C plates and bumpsteer if i get that as well.

i will probably eventually get bumpsteer i think. My car is perfect on flat roads but on roads where it is not flat i have to fight the steering and slowing down on these kinds of roads is horrible. it looks like im drunk from the driver behind me point of view.
 

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Here is how CC plates benefit you.

If you are in a turn at high speed and you have the car aligned to factory camber what will happen is that tire will start to fold under the car as it flexes and the suspension will go into positive camber which means that your contact patch(the part of the tire actually trying to grip the road) will lessen and you will have less adhesion to the road. When you set the alignment up to have negative camber what you are doing is offsetting this effect so that when you are turning at high speed the contact patch actually increases which is what you want in a turn where you need the most adhesion. The CC plate lets you do this by being able to set your camber beyond the stock limits which aren't calculated for those types of speeds in a turn.

What the bumpsteer kit does is align the tierod level with the lower control arm so that when you are in a turn and the suspension is compressing from either a bump or heavy cornering the steering wheel doesn't jerk around. As I said before, when you are doing 80mph around a 90* dogleg the last thing you want is for the car to be bouncing around. What it will do is to make the car more predictable in the turn which means you can go faster because you know what the car is going to do. When it's twitchy and unpredictable you don't want to be going faster which means....you lose! At least in road racing! LOL!
All this suspension stuff that you see is usually to make the car more predictable and not so twitchy. Again, when you are going fast any little twitch that you would hardly notice driving on the street magnifies 100x and that usually leads to 4 wheels in the dirt or you kissing the wall! Not good! Panhard bars, control arms and stiff bushings, watts link these are all to keep the suspension from moving side to side or forward and backward while you're turning.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is how CC plates benefit you.

If you are in a turn at high speed and you have the car aligned to factory camber what will happen is that tire will start to fold under the car as it flexes and the suspension will go into positive camber which means that your contact patch(the part of the tire actually trying to grip the road) will lessen and you will have less adhesion to the road. When you set the alignment up to have negative camber what you are doing is offsetting this effect so that when you are turning at high speed the contact patch actually increases which is what you want in a turn where you need the most adhesion. The CC plate lets you do this by being able to set your camber beyond the stock limits which aren't calculated for those types of speeds in a turn.

What the bumpsteer kit does is align the tierod level with the lower control arm so that when you are in a turn and the suspension is compressing from either a bump or heavy cornering the steering wheel doesn't jerk around. As I said before, when you are doing 80mph around a 90* dogleg the last thing you want is for the car to be bouncing around. What it will do is to make the car more predictable in the turn which means you can go faster because you know what the car is going to do. When it's twitchy and unpredictable you don't want to be going faster which means....you lose! At least in road racing! LOL!
All this suspension stuff that you see is usually to make the car more predictable and not so twitchy. Again, when you are going fast any little twitch that you would hardly notice driving on the street magnifies 100x and that usually leads to 4 wheels in the dirt or you kissing the wall! Not good! Panhard bars, control arms and stiff bushings, watts link these are all to keep the suspension from moving side to side or forward and backward while you're turning.

John
Wow nice info. But yeah i dont take turns at 80MPH. lol. iim not sure what to do now though. I didnt realize all these components go into suspension. i thought it was just 240 for the lowering kit and i was done. But with shocks/struts, C/C Plates and ball joints etc this stuff adds up to 800 bucks or so if not more + labor.

Well lets just say i buy the C/C Plates and the bumpsteer kit and the lowering kit. is that all that a professional would be adjusting for the alignment of the car?
 

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Wow nice info. But yeah i dont take turns at 80MPH. lol. iim not sure what to do now though. I didnt realize all these components go into suspension. i thought it was just 240 for the lowering kit and i was done. But with shocks/struts, C/C Plates and ball joints etc this stuff adds up to 800 bucks or so if not more + labor.

Well lets just say i buy the C/C Plates and the bumpsteer kit and the lowering kit. is that all that a professional would be adjusting for the alignment of the car?
Just take things one at a time! Lower the car! Drive it! See how you like it! If you are satisfied(Which you will be because you have effectively lowered the center of gravity of the car and it will feel faster in turns!) leave it for a while and then add the bumpsteer kit and a solid steering shaft! The rag joint has too much play in it for my taste and steering should feel a little more solid and precise! CC plates should go on after this but only if you decide to track the car at all!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just take things one at a time! Lower the car! Drive it! See how you like it! If you are satisfied(Which you will be because you have effectively lowered the center of gravity of the car and it will feel faster in turns!) leave it for a while and then add the bumpsteer kit and a solid steering shaft! The rag joint has too much play in it for my taste and steering should feel a little more solid and precise! CC plates should go on after this but only if you decide to track the car at all!

John
Ok sounds good. Thanks for all your help.
 

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You do NOTneed a bumpsteer kit for that much drop. You do NOT need new shocks or struts. Those springs are not that much stiffer than stock, so new springs is not required, but a good idea. Definitely not required tho. Also New Ball Joints? Hell No. You don't need those unless your mechanic tells you to. The only 2 things you should by straight out are the spring isolaters and springs. If you decide to get new shocks and struts, then get cc plates. The cc plates are necesary for the drop you are doing. its the 2+ inches of drop that require the plates. And for anything less, they just add strength which won't be necessary for your car.
 

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you can either not buy them and hope you get lucky and not prematurely wear out the tread on your front tires, or you can get them now and not have to worry about it at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
not trying to hijack the thread but is there any other good brands besides eibach?
yeah i hear H&R is really good. That is my second choice though.

you can either not buy them and hope you get lucky and not prematurely wear out the tread on your front tires, or you can get them now and not have to worry about it at all...
are you talking about C/C Plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Who should install my suspension upgrades. A Ford Dealer or a Good Mechanic shop. There is this high quality shop near me that does tuners and muscle. from the outside they look like they know what they are doing but idk. StreetLegal - Woodward's ONLY True Performance Shop - Homepage They seem legit to me. But ford or just a place shop like this?
 

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Who should install my suspension upgrades. A Ford Dealer or a Good Mechanic shop. There is this high quality shop near me that does tuners and muscle. from the outside they look like they know what they are doing but idk. StreetLegal - Woodward's ONLY True Performance Shop - Homepage They seem legit to me. But ford or just a place shop like this?
depending on how mechanically inclined you are and what kinds of tools you have available, you might be able to install them yourself. i did all my suspension stuff myself except the CC plates. something about drilling a hole into my strut tower didn't sit well with me, considering i'd never installed them before. but i took them to a great mechanic and i haven't had any problems. i would take it to a shop that has experience installing these kinds of mods on Mustangs. i wouldn't go to a dealer for anything unless it was warranty related. i don't even take my cars to dealers for service. if the shop you linked has experience installing those mods on Mustangs, ask around your area and see what kind of reputation they have...
 
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