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SO... Today i put struts, lowering springs, and adj panhard bar. i still have the same pop and rear end twist that i did before. i looked at bushings on the control arms they all looked good. Now in the rear end suspension the only thing stock is upper control arm, sway bar, shocks, and the panhard bar brace. the car clunks, then the rear end feels like it twist or misaligns with the car then when i let out of it the rear end sways into place. its not nearly as vilant as before the new suspension what do i do.
 

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^ That's true. You should get the upper anyway. An adjustable upper will allow you to dial the pinion angle in too.
 

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The Despised Vert
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I put the control arm re low brackets on my car and it became undriveable.. it would push one way on acceleration and pull the other when I let off... don't really know what the problem was but sounds kinda like what yours is doing.. don't think I had a clunk tho
 

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Part of this may be due to the geometry of the panhard bar.

By having the panhard bar at an angle, suspension compression on driver's side (axle-mount side of the panhard bar) pushes the axle to the driver's side. Suspension droop is going to pull it to the passenger side. The horizontal distance between the chassis mount and the axle mount changes depending on the vertical distance between the two points.

Aftermarket panahard bar kits for the pre-S197 cars would set up the panhard bar to be parallel to the axle to minimize this kind of unwanted lateral movement.

If that is what's going on, your fix is to go to a Watt's Link.

EDIT: This has nothing to do with the clunk, just the rear end twist/misalignment you were talking about
 

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Hello,

I bet it is in the upper control arm. Ford used a 14mm hole in the upper control arm and 16mm in the mount... the control arm has a tendency to move and cause a "clunk".. its pretty common. I new upper mount might solve this.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

Mine does the same thing. My bet is the upper mount as well... I'll change it before too long. I have an adjustable upper arm with the stock mount right now.
If the problem is a UCA clunk, the fix for this clunk is the Steeda stepped spacer, which takes up the extra 2mm in the UCA mount bolt hole. :)

Steeda 555-4110 Steeda Control Arms
 

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I put the control arm re low brackets on my car and it became undriveable.. it would push one way on acceleration and pull the other when I let off... don't really know what the problem was but sounds kinda like what yours is doing.. don't think I had a clunk tho
Were your brackets welded in?
 

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We offer an upgraded upper mount that is formed from 1/4" plate. It has the same shape as the factory mount but is twice the thickness and strength and mounts in the stock location with the stock hardware. A new grade 8 bolt is include to attach your upper control arm. The upper mount has two mounting holes to allow you to adjust the instant center of your car. I would suggest an adjustable upper control to go with the new upper mount. We offer two kinds, one with a high durometer urethane bushing the other with a spherical bearing. You will not have any clunking issues when you use our upper control arm with our upper mount. You can use our upper mount with your srock control arm but you will need to use the factory bolt because of it being 14mm versus 9/16. If you have any questions please give me a call.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
101fng let it go..... the world will not come to and end.

rich the spydershaft is great not a single problem from the day of the install. And drum roll please everyone was wrong.... I have figured out my ghost problem. the lsd is slipping under high stress. the drivers side is clunking/slipping under torque, and then in turn the passenger side is hooking and giving a pretty nasty torque pull. it continues to pull while the drivers side slips until i take my foot out of it, and both tires are spinning at the same speed. i noticede i had a rear problem when i switched my back tires. if i have meats back there it does this. if i have regular 275/40/18 street tires it will spin both tires instead of slipping. guess its time for somthing with some muscle in the rear...no ****
 

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SO... Today i put struts, lowering springs, and adj panhard bar. i still have the same pop and rear end twist that i did before. i looked at bushings on the control arms they all looked good. Now in the rear end suspension the only thing stock is upper control arm, sway bar, shocks, and the panhard bar brace. the car clunks, then the rear end feels like it twist or misaligns with the car then when i let out of it the rear end sways into place. its not nearly as vilant as before the new suspension what do i do.
This happened to me before, there is nothing worse then comming out of 4th gear at 135 and having the car throw you into the right lan. Take off your LCA's I had this problem i actually blew my bushings in a brand new set of LCA's i had from BMR on my car. Allthough they will replace them for free since they back their products, i ordered another set so i didnt have to wait on the shipping.

Edit: I drove my car like this for almost a year before i realized that it was the control arm bushing didnt see it was broke till i took the control arm off or the ford tech had it on the lif and pointed it out with his flashlight. I was in denial that long
 
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