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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a '99 GT. I got a pretty good price on it, and I'm trying to sell it for more than I paid.

I'm putting the money toward my 66 coupe. It really needs to be completely restored, but for now, I plan to take care of the engine, trans, and suspension (possibly the interior, funds prohibiting). I really want the feel of a new-edge Mustang in my '66, but I'm not really familiar with the different spring/shock setups available at a reasonable price. Any suggestions would be lovely!

Also, I'm planning on rebuilding the original 289 to hold some value to the car, as well as do a 5 or 6 speed conversion. Any other deals would be appreciated, too.

-Randy
 

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For me there is only one way to go here. It is not as hard as you would think. But the change to the old Mustangs ride and handling is so dramatic you will think you are driving a new Stang! With all the stuff is comes with is a savings over just buying rack & pinion, Disc brakes,front suspension, & Coil over shocks.



The kit comes with:

-Frame reinforcing plates

- Steel inner fender panels

-Jig welded crossmember

-Upper a-arm and shock mounting tower

-Urethane bushed upper and lower tubular a-arms

-Kick ass Urethane bushed Motor mounts for a 289,302,351 or 4.6 & 5.4 Mod motor

-Total Cost Involved Custom IFS dropped spindles

- Bolt-on steering arms for correct turning radius and ackerman

-Standard Power rack & pinion

-TCI All American coilover shocks with adjustable spring tension and black powder coated springs

-Eleven inch vented smooth rotors

-Detailed instuctions showing how to remove old suspension and install the new TCI unit

:D Just look at all the room it gives you.... :cool:

 

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^:drool
 

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That is pretty sweet, though. I saw a Mustang II setup for 1300 earlier. What about for the rear?

The $1300 price dosnt come with everything. you have to provide alot to make it work. It is just a cheap kit. :eek: You can go as cheap as $500 on a Mustang II front end. But you get what you pay for. I always say if you cant do it right, why do it at all. :confused: It is like spending money twice when you realize the you bought crap and and have to save up the money again to do it right.

:yes I have seen the a lot of kits and the one I recomend is the best one by Far...

Quility parts and sound structure, easy to install. Eveything you need to finish the job.

The front is the important part of the car. It is were all the problems of the Classic Mustang are.
For the rear you can keep the cost down, Just replace the leaf springs with new ones and add cal tracs.

You can always sell your disc brakes to help off set to expence of your upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your help MustangOne. Maybe I'll just ship it to you with some money in the glove box. Lol. I was also curious about how the IFS setup you suggested will sit. I'm not sure if it will lower the car or not, but that's my goal. The wheel/tire combo I'm using now is too large for the front, and I want it lower.

Any suggested wheel/tire combos to get the tires to slip in under the fender wells without a mini-tub? I know I could roll the lips, but I have to replace one quarter already.

Also, the rear axle of my car is off-center. The driver side tire is under the quarter, but the passenger side actually sticks out from the quarter about 1.5" - any thoughts?
 

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On the IFS, It has adjustable coil over shocks. You can lower it or raise it.

What Tire/Rim size and back spacing do you have now?

On the rear end look at the mounting plates that connect to the leaf springs. and look at the leafsprings themself, and the rear shackels. I bet the problem is in one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
15x8 rims on all 4 corners. Front tires are 205/65's and rears are 215/65's. The leaf springs are pretty worn & I have air shocks, temporarily. I just want to get it back on center. I'm pretty sure it's the shackles.
 
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