So the 4:10's are going in next week, the subframes will be welded on, and now I want to go to the rear suspension. Now I am NOT going to lower this car and it is not going to be used as a corner carver. I just want to tighten up the rear. Any suggestions?
Suspension
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Joined
·
1,295 Posts
LCA's, shocks, springs.
Joined
·
4,990 Posts
mach boy, your project name in your signature is great! haha
+1 LCA's, UCA's, shocks, springs
+1 LCA's, UCA's, shocks, springs
Joined
·
1,616 Posts
I guess the question is how far you are willing to go. You can get a set of Lower Control arms and a set of good sway bars. That alone will be pretty good. If you are willing to go to the next step. I would recommend a torque arm and pan hard bar. That is the only way to really fix the issues with the stock rear axle location.
Joined
·
5,187 Posts
Joined
·
8,048 Posts
The best way to tighten the rear... is free it up :yes
What are your goals here? If you don't want to carve corners, are you looking for a better launch?
Jazzer
PS. Lefty = smarty pants :lmao
Joined
·
13,570 Posts
Maybe the poor man's three link: Lower control arms and a panhard bar. The LCAs to help it hook and the panhard bar to tighten up the back.
Joined
·
7,044 Posts
A panhard bar isn't going to do anything for drag racing, but it'll definitely helps for any type of hard cornering.
Our stock lower control arms suck, you'll want a new set. I'm pretty sure the drag springs from Eiback don't lower your car any, so you could get those and a matched set of shocks/struts.
We really need to know what you are doing with your car to give you better information. You'll want different setups depending on whether you want to corner on the track, corner on the street, DD with a little bit of drag time, or a lot of drag time with a little bit of normal driving, etc.
Our stock lower control arms suck, you'll want a new set. I'm pretty sure the drag springs from Eiback don't lower your car any, so you could get those and a matched set of shocks/struts.
We really need to know what you are doing with your car to give you better information. You'll want different setups depending on whether you want to corner on the track, corner on the street, DD with a little bit of drag time, or a lot of drag time with a little bit of normal driving, etc.
The car will only be driven once a week. LCA's are a must and I will be buying the mm"s with the urethane and spherical bearings. It will never see any track time, drag or corner. I guess I am a "mash to the floor in a straight line" kind of driver but it is just for the fun factor and not any kind of competition. I just want make the car efficent as possible with the power it has. That does not mean I am opposed to throwing a ZEX kit on it though. So I guess with the way a drive, keeping stock springs on it, and not worrying about the snap oversteer, should I be considering upper control arms as well ? Like I said I am not relly worried about the "bind" because of the way I drive. Thanks all.
So I guess with the way a drive, keeping stock springs on it, and not worrying about the snap oversteer, should I be considering upper control arms as well ? Like I said I am not relly worried about the "bind" because of the way I drive. Thanks all.
Joined
·
8,048 Posts
If you drive the way you say you want to, you WILL experience bind :yes
Suspension is MORE than just a way to keep the tires on the ground from the beginning, it is designed to keep your tires on the ground to the end. Going spherical UCA's will certainly be an improvement, but PHB or WL and TA will allow you to carry speed farther/faster and stop better as well with increased control of your ride.
Jazzer
Suspension is MORE than just a way to keep the tires on the ground from the beginning, it is designed to keep your tires on the ground to the end. Going spherical UCA's will certainly be an improvement, but PHB or WL and TA will allow you to carry speed farther/faster and stop better as well with increased control of your ride.
Jazzer
Joined
·
3,315 Posts
It sounds to me like he wants to keep the ride quality in his car. And if he goes with UCAs with spherical bushings (the only way to do it) then he will get more noise.If you drive the way you say you want to, you WILL experience bind :yes
Suspension is MORE than just a way to keep the tires on the ground from the beginning, it is designed to keep your tires on the ground to the end. Going spherical UCA's will certainly be an improvement, but PHB or WL and TA will allow you to carry speed farther/faster and stop better as well with increased control of your ride.
Jazzer
Joined
·
8,048 Posts
One will get a bit more NVH, but much easier on the torque-boxes AND a benifit to holding throttle around a corner.
Jazzer
Jazzer
Jazzer,
looking at your avatar and your griggs suspension you take your suspension very seriously. Yes I want to keep the factory ride. An quite frankly I could never spend that kind of money. Will the panhard be an improvement with the control arms at the stock ride height? Is it worth it? And what is your opinion of the poor man's three link for a street car?
looking at your avatar and your griggs suspension you take your suspension very seriously. Yes I want to keep the factory ride. An quite frankly I could never spend that kind of money. Will the panhard be an improvement with the control arms at the stock ride height? Is it worth it? And what is your opinion of the poor man's three link for a street car?
Joined
·
8,048 Posts
Use the following equasion to determine your next move:
Any suspension upgrade = loss of ride quality
My car is on the extreme end of such suspension mods and is a DD ride. I have a somewhat rougher ride than your average lowered car, but LOTS more noise. I am a bit of a stickler on suspension reguardless of ones needs other than a 100% DD ride with ZERO desire to anything but get groceries! As soon as one wants to go fast, he/she needs to be able to stop faster and be able to carry some of that speed around a turn. Unless you are 100% 1/4 mile launch ride, one really needs to address the rear-end of the pre-S197 suspension to be safe, IMO.
If you are NOT into the corners, as stated in original post, I recommend you go poly/spherical LCA's and FLSFC's. I would recommend you go spherical UCA's as well, because you will be able to better handle some of that speed while rounding a corner. Sooner or later, you will intentionally or otherwise, pitch that rear-end outward and your car will be better equipped to address it. A PHB or WL with a torque arm will be MUCH better for this event, but WILL add just that much more noise to your driving experience. I very much disapprove of the "poor man's tri-link" as it is a short cut that will only tease the driver into wanting more. I have never been in such a car, but have little doubt this would be the result.
Jazzer
Any suspension upgrade = loss of ride quality
My car is on the extreme end of such suspension mods and is a DD ride. I have a somewhat rougher ride than your average lowered car, but LOTS more noise. I am a bit of a stickler on suspension reguardless of ones needs other than a 100% DD ride with ZERO desire to anything but get groceries! As soon as one wants to go fast, he/she needs to be able to stop faster and be able to carry some of that speed around a turn. Unless you are 100% 1/4 mile launch ride, one really needs to address the rear-end of the pre-S197 suspension to be safe, IMO.
If you are NOT into the corners, as stated in original post, I recommend you go poly/spherical LCA's and FLSFC's. I would recommend you go spherical UCA's as well, because you will be able to better handle some of that speed while rounding a corner. Sooner or later, you will intentionally or otherwise, pitch that rear-end outward and your car will be better equipped to address it. A PHB or WL with a torque arm will be MUCH better for this event, but WILL add just that much more noise to your driving experience. I very much disapprove of the "poor man's tri-link" as it is a short cut that will only tease the driver into wanting more. I have never been in such a car, but have little doubt this would be the result.
Jazzer
Joined
·
15,071 Posts
OLD THREAD, i know, but Jazzer! you say that if you're not into corners you recommend full length SFC's, like this.If you are NOT into the corners, as stated in original post, I recommend you go poly/spherical LCA's and FLSFC's.
Jazzer
MM XL Full Length Connectors : Maximum Motorsports Performance Mustang Suspension Store, Buy Now!
So are these still good for a corner carver? Is it always good to go for the full lengths no matter what your plan for the car is?
Joined
·
7,243 Posts
you really believe any upgrade by any company will make the ride worse than stock? that there is no company out there in the world that could make the ride better than stock while upgrading a little bit?
Joined
·
8,048 Posts
In order for ones car to hold the road beyond stock ability, one needs to tighten up the sloppy suspension components. This means that the rubber bushings and flexable arms that are absorbing the discomfort fed to your car by the road surface are generally where people start. Each compenent will only add a bit of NVH, but only you can decide how far to go. If one wants to keep his/her ride as close as possible to stock comfort, but wants a solid handling ride, I would recommend nice tires and FLSFC's. This is the biggest bang for the buck and least sacrifice in ride quality, but there WILL be some. This does NOT mean, however, that one needs to have a rock-hard suspension to hold the road. In fact, this is the LAST thing one wants in an attempt to hold the road for a DD. One can go relatively soft springs and dampers with somewhat heavier sway bars and poly bushings to gain much appreciative handling with a tight frame.
This all depends on ones ultimate goals for suspension mods. If you go as far as I have, you will have a noisy ride and there is no way around it.
Jazzer
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
