[nyjetsfan4lif3]

iv decided im gunna start wrking on the suspension for my car and was wondering what wuold be the best way to go, i wannamake the car ride nice and handle bettr , i have around 1400 i could put towards it. i was looking at saleen suspension kit? is that any good whats the best kit i would be ableto get

 

[ReverendDexter]

Corner carver or drag racer?

 

[DRock]

Corner carver or drag racer?

Great question

 

[ReverendDexter]

Also, can you provide a link to the Saleen kit?

Last I checked, the Saleen "kit" was simply shocks, springs, and swaybars, which will improve the handling, but not nearly so much as a similar kit from a company like Maximum Motorsports.

My typical "short answer" for suspension involves starting with the following:
0)Fix everything that's currently wrong with the car.
1)Best tires you can afford
2)Best shocks you can afford
3)Full length, weld-in subframe connectors
4)Caster-Camber plates

After that, it really depends on what you're doing.

EDIT: I just saw this was in the '05 section: Nevermind about the SFCs, you don't need them.

 

[DRock]

The saleen suspension will cause the car to understeer more because it only replaces the front bar and makes it bigger to so that only makes the handling worse.

Oh and how low are you looking to go with this?

Here is the Saleen package.........
Saleen Suspension Package Mustang GT (05-10)

 

[ReverendDexter]

The saleen suspension will cause the car to understeer more because it only replaces the front bar and makes it bigger to so that only makes the handling worse.

Oh and how low are you looking to go with this?

Here is the Saleen package.........
Saleen Suspension Package Mustang GT (05-10)

Wow, yeah, for $800 you can do a LOT better than that.

 

[her name is ponie]

bilsteins and H&R springs :drool

 

[nyjetsfan4lif3]

i would like the car to drop atleast 1 1/4 , i just want the car to handle better overall , i only race on the street never been to a track.

 

[ReverendDexter]

i just want the car to handle better overall

Jack-of-all-trades is master of none. What makes a good corner carver will hurt your 1/4 mile, and vice-versa.

Take tires, for instance. For drag racing, you want soft sidewalls for better launch. For cornering, you want stiff sidewalls for better response. If you try to split the difference, you get a car that's mushy in the corners, but still spins off the line.

 

[DRock]

Shocks/springs, LCA's & Relocation brackets and sway bars........

That should make your stance the way you want and help you hook and turn a lot better

 

[ReverendDexter]

If you do drop your S917, you also should get an adjustable panhard bar to keep the axle centered.

 

[mod06saleen]

I am a corner carver. I am about to replace my suspension on my 06 saleen. When are you going to/planning to do your upgrades? On another note has anyone built a suspension that they are particularly happy with. I am thinking tubular front k-member and arms and coil overs. Any ideas?

 

[Mickey]

^ thats a solid combo

 

[DRock]

I am a corner carver. I am about to replace my suspension on my 06 saleen. When are you going to/planning to do your upgrades? On another note has anyone built a suspension that they are particularly happy with. I am thinking tubular front k-member and arms and coil overs. Any ideas?

What coilovers are you thinking about? Finding a setup that you really like that has a TRUE rear coilover system is going to be harder thatn you think.

 

[07 Boss]

I think anyone who wishes to apex corners at frightening speeds should look into a good watts link setup. It will give you a much more solid feel as you romp on the gas exiting the back half of a turn than any panhard bar will. I also think it works pretty good on the 1320' by keeping your rear end centered as you squat at launch.

 

[UMI Sales]

Hello
I noticed that you are interested in upgrading your suspension set up! And I just wanted to leave you know that UMI Performance offers a wide variety of parts that may met your needs from lower control arms, relocation brackets, pan hard bars. Below is a link to show you what all we have to offer! And when you purchase from UMI Performance you are getting a great quality product that is made right here in the USA.

2005-2010 Ford Mustang : UMI Performance, Inc.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

 

[ReverendDexter]

I think anyone who wishes to apex corners at frightening speeds should look into a good watts link setup. It will give you a much more solid feel as you romp on the gas exiting the back half of a turn than any panhard bar will.

I'm curious why you say this. The advantage to a Watt's Link over a panhard bar is that there's no lateral deflection of the axle as it moves through vertical travel. How much lateral movement of the axle is happening with the factory panhard bar with the compression seen under hard acceleration? Is it really enough to give you a squirrelly feel on corner exit? I mean, it should be very consistent.

I'm also curious how much seat-of-the-pants difference in feel could be had with a panhard bar that's horizontal at rest (like the MM bar for '79-'04s), rather than the factory angled-at-rest bar.

 

[07 Boss]

I'm curious why you say this. The advantage to a Watt's Link over a panhard bar is that there's no lateral deflection of the axle as it moves through vertical travel. How much lateral movement of the axle is happening with the factory panhard bar with the compression seen under hard acceleration? Is it really enough to give you a squirrelly feel on corner exit? I mean, it should be very consistent.

I'm also curious how much seat-of-the-pants difference in feel could be had with a panhard bar that's horizontal at rest (like the MM bar for '79-'04s), rather than the factory angled-at-rest bar.

Well most folks probably won't feel a difference between the two setups (as far as lateral deflection), but I'm pretty sure I would. I tend to look for things that most people don't when driving hard just because of my training/vacations. I've done 3 Driving Schools including what used to be the Bob Bondurant School at Sear's Point. I've raced AMA superbikes at the same. And granted our live axle setup is going to be more squirly than an IRS setup. For someone who is really in tune with their car and feels every little twitch, I think it will be a more solid feeling setup without any lateral deflection. Depending on which way you are turning, the lateral deflection is either into or away from the turn. That is the inconsistancy that you will get rid of with a Watts link. Again most people may not feel the difference, but it is my opinion that it is one of the best things to do if I was going with a road setup and a live axle.

Let me ask you this, when you launch hard and your car squats, which way does your rear end tend to "walk?" Mine tends to go left and I attribute this to the axle deflecting in that direction. I could be wrong but that is my seat of the pants feeling.

Having the bar level instead of at an angle will produce less deflection because of where your motion is in the arc of travel on the end attached to the axle. But is it going to be enough for one to notice is subjective. Some may notice a difference and some may not.

 

[ReverendDexter]

Boss, I'm not attacking you, but that's a lot of "I thinks".

I'm an avid autocrosser, so I know what you're talking about when it comes to being tuned in to minute changes in the car. However, the axle motion with a panhard bar is consistent and predictable. It's not like your rear end binds, and then suddenly frees itself (like a stock 4-link car); with the same amount of load and body roll, the axle will be located will be in a set place every time.

 

[07 Boss]

Boss, I'm not attacking you, but that's a lot of "I thinks".

I'm an avid autocrosser, so I know what you're talking about when it comes to being tuned in to minute changes in the car. However, the axle motion with a panhard bar is consistent and predictable. It's not like your rear end binds, and then suddenly frees itself (like a stock 4-link car); with the same amount of load and body roll, the axle will be located will be in a set place every time.

No attack, legit questions. Just trying to explain why I think it would be a better setup, backing up the "I think" with my racing background and suspension knowledge because I don't "know" because I haven't driven one of these cars (other cars yes) with a Watts link. So I don't have any firsthand knowledge, just some experience, knowledge, and theory............... and some "I thinks."