Modded Mustang Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As the title states im swapping in a crown victoria motor, ill try to provide as much information as possible so that it may help others with similar swaps as well.

I managed to purchase an engine from a 2010 police interceptor with 50k for 400
Ive always been advised to stay away from cop cars due to high idle times but i took a chance with it being a newer lower mileage option.

This engine is going into my 2001 mustang Gt vin X currently with windsor 4.6 engine and 5 speed 3650. Ive tried to find out if the timing cover from the gt will swap over to the replacement long block without much luck. I know the flywheel is different since the crown vic has a 6 bolt and my gt has an 8. the new engine includes the flywheel.

so i have a few questions:

am I correcting in assuming I need to replace my existing clutch kit? and if so what do you guys recommend for just a daily driver.

other than swapping the intake and associated parts and exhaust manifolds. what other items need to be swapped or reused?

and after its all said and done. for references on parts should i just consider the engine and 02-04 romeo?

Thanks much. Id appreciate any help on the subject.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Make sure you also change the oil pan, pick up and the oil pump. Had to learn that the hard way. The cop car motor will do fine. They are maintained on a regular basis, which is more than you can say for the average vehicle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Make sure you also change the oil pan, pick up and the oil pump. Had to learn that the hard way. The cop car motor will do fine. They are maintained on a regular basis, which is more than you can say for the average vehicle.
thank you for that information and advice. do you have any input on the timing covers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Either timing cover will work and yours will swap over.There was some issue with the water pump pulley when I had done my swaps. Can't remember exactly what it was. Been a while now. I'm rusty on the details. Just swap over everything on the outside that comes off the GT engine on to the CVPI and it''l be fine.
 

·
King Trashmouth
Joined
·
21,891 Posts
Make sure you also change the oil pan, pick up and the oil pump. Had to learn that the hard way. The cop car motor will do fine. They are maintained on a regular basis, which is more than you can say for the average vehicle.
Or you can just run the Crown Vic one. My old engine still had the Crown Vic parts on it.

Either timing cover will work. Exhaust manifolds are different. The coolant/oil filter adapter needs to be swapped.

For the water pump pulley you can run whichever style you want as long as it matches the pump. Ex long pump with long pulley. I think the Cobra one had an additional anti cavitation ring that was nice, but it's a short pump and requires the short pulley.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Or you can just run the Crown Vic one. My old engine still had the Crown Vic parts on it.

Either timing cover will work. Exhaust manifolds are different. The coolant/oil filter adapter needs to be swapped.

For the water pump pulley you can run whichever style you want as long as it matches the pump. Ex long pump with long pulley. I think the Cobra one had an additional anti cavitation ring that was nice, but it's a short pump and requires the short pulley.
Yes, all that. But I do remember, the oil pan did not fit, it was very close, but it hit the crossmember. Leave the oil pump. Just reuse the pickup and pan from the GT.

This is a good time to paint the valve covers, makes it really nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I would like to document the process a little better so here we are.

Got off late today, didn't do much. got the car into the shop, and took the hood off. Ran into the common problems with the hood studs... the nut rotates with it... so i decided to remove the hinge at the cowl.. and the damn thing bolt broke with little effort lol wow... ive been reading around saying epoxy will problem be the solution to my problem.. just sucks since its a terminator hood.

hopefully will start the removal process in the morning.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Maybe that little bolt that broke can come out with a left threaded drill bit? Sucks that it broke. Looking forward to seeing this swap go through.
 

·
King Trashmouth
Joined
·
21,891 Posts
I had the same problem with my 03 Cobra hood. Epoxy worked for awhile, but came out. I ended up cutting a slot in the back of the hood, pulling out the old insert and replacing it with a piece of aluminum bar stock that I drilled and tapped. I sunk a new M6x1.0 stud in it and secured it with red loctite. It's been doing great ever since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I had the same problem with my 03 Cobra hood. Epoxy worked for awhile, but came out. I ended up cutting a slot in the back of the hood, pulling out the old insert and replacing it with a piece of aluminum bar stock that I drilled and tapped. I sunk a new M6x1.0 stud in it and secured it with red loctite. It's been doing great ever since.
that sounds like a great idea. id love pictures if you got any.

---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 PM ----------

since this is essentially a windsor to romeo swap. im tracking down my flywheel/clutch combo. My intention is to just get the mustang back on the road in time for college. I have a 99 cobra engine being built locally for a future Supercharged build. I found a resurfaced 6 bolt fly wheel off from a mustang. and im currently looking at the following clutch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALEO-KING...m=132650862120&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Evidently Valeo used to produce clutches for Ford. So i figure why not for a simple daily.

Id love any feedback on this one. trying to keep it under a tight budget. the flywheel is 90 so keeping everything below 250 would be great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,557 Posts
Thats the oem clutch. I have no experience with that one but it is highly regarded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
went ahead and ordered it on ebay. I chose the seller gripforce over clutchamerica because of a higher seller rating and more overall feedback. They both offer the valeo king cobra pressure plate but the friction disc was a bit different. gripforce offers one from FDX racing that was rating for higher horsepower and torque. Gripforce also seemed more legit, having an actual website along with their ebaystore. Just things that are more reassuring to me when considering that Im buying from ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/400967313624
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
huge update:

sorry I've been away for such a long time but Ive been working late and maybe working on the car just a tad afterward. BUT the engine is finally out. WITH the transmission. I hope to address anybody concerns but all in all the removal process is very doable with the right tools. this is my very first engine pull ever and looking back, it wasn't that bad.

The biggest pain in the ass was the exhaust manifold flange stud/bolts/nuts. taking them off took the longest. managed to break a husky swivel joint socket on the impact lol (home depot replaced it like nothing if anyone wondered about their warranty)

PB BLASTER IS YOUR FRIEND lol

applied a generous amount on the stud nuts and let it soak overnight....what a difference, the stuff really works and made my life easier. I intended to you the torch to heat the nuts but clearing the torch head was a problem. went out and bought a smaller propane torch setup and didn't even need to open it.

the electrical harness is pretty straight foward, just follow the wires and take your time with the connectors. O2 senors right by the transmission can be just a bit tricky if the car isn't raised high enough. get as much working room you can.

The reason i chose to take the tranny with me is because i do have to swap my flywheel/clutch for this swap as well and those transmission to engine bolts were giving me hell and with limited room it just made sense to work with it on the outside. the top bolts require a long extension and a slight pivot of the unit apparently.... screw that lol. So of course the shifter had to but undone and the driveshaft removed ( remember to mark it)

Just came back from o'reillys and brought back with me the following:

oilpan gasket ( oil pan swap)

exhaust manifold gaskets ( manifold swap)

intake manifold gasket( you guessed it lol)

oil and filter 5w-20 I picked the filter for the 2010 crown vic just in case filter housing is different.

(just read wickeds post on swapping filter adapters.... so we will see what i need. maybe the gasket.)

3 Quarts of mercon V atf for the tr3650. the capacity is 3.2? or 4? im researching the proper way to fill and measure as we speak.

exhaust flange stud bolts and nuts as well as the gaskets.

rented the slide hammer pilot bearing removal tool

if im missing anything please feel free to remind me. in a bit ill be in the shop swapping over accessories and parts over to the newer block.

just a few pictures are attached to show the progress. included one that shows were i mounted the bolts to pull the engine. I had trouble finding some good info on that so maybe i can save somebody some trouble. If anyone wants specific pictures feel free to ask.

I honestly feel good about pulling it and doing it myself. I mean i have a cobra 4v being built and and the labor around here for engine pull/installs is around 1600-2000..... yeah i think im doing it myself now. IT WAS NOT THAT BAD :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Just an Update:

classes at university have had me a little distracted from the project but last night i tied up all my loose ends and took it for a drive. So far so good. I drove it about 30 miles and nothing out of the ordinary. feels and sounds like it used to. Haven't pushed it too hard because i feel the clutch pedal is just a little different definitely softer. might need an adjustment or i might just take some time to swap out the stock cable for the adjustable.

Here are a few things that feel should be addressed for anybody trying to do this, some of it is probably obvious to you guys but it served as a headache for me lol ill update the list as needed.

** The valve covers should be swapped over from the mustang to insure that the pcv valve/line fits and clears like its supposed.
I didn't do the swap and had to do some slight modifying with some vacuum hose and a thin layer of tape on the pcv valve to fit snug. will probably swap out the valve covers in the future for piece of mine.

** motor mounts
just be consistent and either use the time to purchase new mounts or use the mustang ones.

thanks everyone for the help and advice on the swap. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top