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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help!! Just recently bought a 1987 GT. It was lowered by previous owner. Well just recently I had it up on jacks to change the oil and noticed a dent in the front of the oil pan. At first I couldnt see what would of caused this but as i lowered it off the jacks you can see the sway bar getting closer to the oil pan. when its all the way down the sway bar sits about an inch or less away fron the pan. And when driving any bump you hit you can feel the bar smavk into the oil pan. Anyone ever heard of this? how can i fix this??
 

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i've never heard of a problem like this.. but then again, this IS the internet, and someone had to have had this problem before.. is there a way to put a spacer where the end links bolt to the frame? or is there not enough thread
 

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step 1 . . Remove sway bar
step 2. . Place into the nearest trash can
step 3. . Enjoy better 60' times
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How sloppy will it handle with out the sway bar? I was thinking of putting a 2 inch spacer in between the bushings where it attaches to the frame rail. You think that would work? Do they sell any kits for this? Ive looked all over the internet about this problem but no real answers on how to fix it. Also when you say cut down the end links, do they sell shorter bolts instead of cutting them?
 

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step 1 . . Remove sway bar
step 2. . Place into the nearest trash can
step 3. . Enjoy better 60' times
That will help your 60 foot but if your not a quarter mile guy then I wouldn't use this method as a perminent fix. A street car without vs with is a sloppy driver. I speak from experience, it's not as bad as you would think but it's sloppy. My turbo car has no front swaybar but my na car does and it's night and day difference on the street.

I can't really help with the swaybar hitting the oil pan issue never encountered that myself but that car must be slammed.
 

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agreed driving without it sucks if you dont drive like a grandma
 

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How sloppy will it handle with out the sway bar? I was thinking of putting a 2 inch spacer in between the bushings where it attaches to the frame rail. You think that would work? Do they sell any kits for this? Ive looked all over the internet about this problem but no real answers on how to fix it. Also when you say cut down the end links, do they sell shorter bolts instead of cutting them?

Yeah, got to auto zone and just ask to see their grade 8 hareware. (probably don't need to be grade 8 but they will get you going in the right direction) They may also have universal end links there which may be appropriate for your application. If you lowered your car 1.5 inches in the front, try to find a set that is 1.5 inches shorter.
 

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i don't have any problems driving without a sway bar. Althoto be fair i've grown up driving cars from the 70s with big blocks and drum brakes all around , so a mustang with drag suspension and stock brakes drives and stops like a slot car to me
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all your advice. I just decided to just remove the sway bar. It handles not that bad. With it having a 2 1/2 inch drop it handles pretty well without the sway bar. ill save the sway bar if down the road i decide to re install it. Thanks again.
 

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i don't have any problems driving without a sway bar. Althoto be fair i've grown up driving cars from the 70s with big blocks and drum brakes all around , so a mustang with drag suspension and stock brakes drives and stops like a slot car to me
:funnah
 

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Priest of the Car Gods
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If you ever do decide to reinstall it, you can get adjustable length swaybar endlinks. The drop part of the swaybar should be vertical with the car at resting ride height.

You only need the front bar if you don't have enough roll stiffness up front. If you're dropped and on stiff springs, I'd suggest trying a 4-cylinder sway bar before putting your GT bar back on.
 

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maybe i'm just being a newb.. but wouldn't a strut tower brace kind of half-a$$ replace a front sway bar?? kinda like a quick fix
 
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