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Discussion Starter #1
I want to get Subs for my Car, Do i need to replace the H/U?

I was thinking to 2 12" Alpine Type R subs, what about an amp? What exactly would i need? I would like to keep the stock H/U.

07 GT with Shaker500

Thanks
 

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to keep the stock headunit look into getting the JL clean sweep...then look into a mono amp theat will cover the power for the subs....whats the rms rating and the ohm rating and is it dual voice coil...the ones you are getting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
to keep the stock headunit look into getting the JL clean sweep...then look into a mono amp theat will cover the power for the subs....whats the rms rating and the ohm rating and is it dual voice coil...the ones you are getting.
Ill look into JL right right

Im wanna get these

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SWR-1222D

General
  • • Frequency Response: 23Hz - 500Hz
Dimensions
  • • Added Volume: 0.085 cu. ft. (Reverse Mount, Magnet Out)
  • • Displacement: 0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount)
  • • Mounting Diameter: 275 mm (10.9'')
  • • Mounting Depth: 195 mm (7.7'')
Power Handling
  • • Peak Power Handling: 1500 Watts
  • • RMS Power Handling: 500 Watts
  • • Power Range: 200 - 500 Watts
 

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ok will look for amps and such....you will be using a 500 rms sub that is a DVC sub utilizing 2ohms on each channel. thus you have options for one sub you can run 4ohm or 1 ohm. how many amps you want (1 or 2 mono clas amps)?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok will look for amps and such....you will be using a 500 rms sub that is a DVC sub utilizing 2ohms on each channel. thus you have options for one sub you can run 4ohm or 1 ohm. how many amps you want (1 or 2 mono clas amps)?

Bro to be honest, Idk, I knw jack about car audio! I was also looking at this

Buy the MTX Terminator Dual 12" Loaded Enclosure and other Car subwoofers at circuitcity.com

I really dont know what to get, I want a really good thump, thats all i know, but I dont want alot of rattle in the trunk
 

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factory sound processors---so that you may keep the stock headunit... i dont know how this will all work with a shaker system (does the shaker system have amps from the factory?)

JL audio clean sweep
Rockford fosgate 3sixty.1
Rockford fosgate 3sixty.2

best recommendations for sound processors.
Factory Sound Processors at Crutchfield.com

as for amps.....
brand?
price range?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
factory sound processors---so that you may keep the stock headunit... i dont know how this will all work with a shaker system (does the shaker system have amps from the factory?)

JL audio clean sweep
Rockford fosgate 3sixty.1
Rockford fosgate 3sixty.2

best recommendations for sound processors.
Factory Sound Processors at Crutchfield.com

as for amps.....
brand?
price range?
OK, as for an amp, Dunno..What good? Whats not? Not over the top expensive tho..I cant find the clean sweep, what is it? And idk if it has amps from the factory, Im clueless on audio!!
 

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ok moderate price then...how amny amps do you want? 1 or 2 for the 2 subs.

check the link in regards to the processors...they take your factory signal and convert it so that you may use amps and it gives cleaner audio output form astock headunit. giving one the ability to keep the factory headunit and have kickin sound quality.
 

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ok moderate price then...how amny amps do you want? 1 or 2 for the 2 subs.

check the link in regards to the processors...they take your factory signal and convert it so that you may use amps and it gives cleaner audio output form astock headunit. giving one the ability to keep the factory headunit and have kickin sound quality.

yea i saw that, Just didnt quite understand what it did...Umm, 1 AMP preffered.
 

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ok....*search continued* i can know figure what amps to include/exclude based upon price and power output.
 

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i have the alpine type r 12"s and i bought an alpine head unit and amp too. the head unit is cool cuz i can controll the sub level seperate from the bass.it is a good set up
 

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ok no sound processors coming up to fit the vehicle....thus speaker level inputs will be used so that you may still use your stock headunit.

all these brands are good. ive used kenwood for my past setup, kicker in my buddy's car, and alpine in another...have rewired/ran power/rca/spaker wire through out.....ima perfectionist/researcher....give me a combo ill look it up.

alpine mrp-m850 $280
800w x 1ch @ 2ohms
500w x 1ch @ 4ohms

Alpine MRP-M1000 $400
1000w x 1ch @ 2ohms

Kicker zx750.1 $300 (originally $600...on sale at crutchfield)
750w x 1ch @ 2ohms

Kenwood KAC 9104D $300
900w x 1ch @ 2ohms

(youd use a 2ohm setting since you want one amp)
(2ohm because you will have 2 subs with 2 voice coils each rated at 2 ohms)
(2ohm + 2ohm) series on each sub giving you 4 ohms---then wire them parallel as 4 ohms and 4 ohms (4ohms on 2 parallel lines equals 2ohms total). Follow?

sub1 wired in series 2ohms +2ohms (4ohms total)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (positive lead on box for this sub)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (negative lead on box for this sub)

sub2 wired in series 2ohms +2ohms (4ohms total)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (positive lead on box for this sub)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (negative lead on box for this sub)

then at the amp 4ohms/2= 2ohms (bc 4ohms parallel has 1/2 the resistance)
+ connect both sub leads form box that are positive here

- connect both sub leads from box that are negative here



(each sub is rated at 500w RMS...so 1000w RMS---continuous is what you want to aim for....nothing more...but no less than 3/4 of the total....so no less than 750w total amp output for good bass)

now i havent used speaker level inputs myself....i am great with car stereos..but every time i do a stereo i replace the headunit...it can be kept....however, my easy method of doing this install with speaker level inputs is get a set of cheap/good rear speakers and a cheap/good amp for them that has a preamp out switch so that you can still use your rear speakers. essential speaker level inputs take your factory speaker harness and have you splice them to the harness supplied so that you have an input to the amplifier. i dont know if the sound quality would be affected if you spliced off of your speaker wires for the rear (keeping the rear speakers connected) and used that same audio signal for the sub amps.

i hope you follow and i have not lost you....i can clarify or try to mock up drawings if such is needed may take a day to get time to do such...
 

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i have the alpine type r 12"s and i bought an alpine head unit and amp too. the head unit is cool cuz i can controll the sub level seperate from the bass.it is a good set up
he wishes to keep his stock headunit though.....thus the more in depth research/and such.....what headunit? i had the alpine 9856 i believe.
 

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If you are doing just a sub add on, don't waste your money on cleansweep or the rockford stuff. they work great if you keep the factory head unit and need to re-eq the system and are putting amps and new speakers in all the way around. These devices won't calibrate properly with the low pass signal the shaker 500 system sends out. You will, however, need to use a good quality line out adaptor, like the peripheral sven2, or others like it. I would not recomend the cheap 20 or 30 dollar peices, as they are known to induce noise into the system. Or if your installer is good enough (like myself) he could (could) convert the factory sub out to RCAs, and work some magic. I'm sorry I don;t know the wiring off the top of my head (it's been a few months sice I have done this) but I do remember it was fairly simple for me to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok no sound processors coming up to fit the vehicle....thus speaker level inputs will be used so that you may still use your stock headunit.

all these brands are good. ive used kenwood for my past setup, kicker in my buddy's car, and alpine in another...have rewired/ran power/rca/spaker wire through out.....ima perfectionist/researcher....give me a combo ill look it up.

alpine mrp-m850 $280
800w x 1ch @ 2ohms
500w x 1ch @ 4ohms

Alpine MRP-M1000 $400
1000w x 1ch @ 2ohms

Kicker zx750.1 $300 (originally $600...on sale at crutchfield)
750w x 1ch @ 2ohms

Kenwood KAC 9104D $300
900w x 1ch @ 2ohms

(youd use a 2ohm setting since you want one amp)
(2ohm because you will have 2 subs with 2 voice coils each rated at 2 ohms)
(2ohm + 2ohm) series on each sub giving you 4 ohms---then wire them parallel as 4 ohms and 4 ohms (4ohms on 2 parallel lines equals 2ohms total). Follow?

sub1 wired in series 2ohms +2ohms (4ohms total)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (positive lead on box for this sub)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (negative lead on box for this sub)

sub2 wired in series 2ohms +2ohms (4ohms total)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (positive lead on box for this sub)
+.....- positive of one coil to negative of the other coil (negative lead on box for this sub)

then at the amp 4ohms/2= 2ohms (bc 4ohms parallel has 1/2 the resistance)
+ connect both sub leads form box that are positive here

- connect both sub leads from box that are negative here



(each sub is rated at 500w RMS...so 1000w RMS---continuous is what you want to aim for....nothing more...but no less than 3/4 of the total....so no less than 750w total amp output for good bass)

now i havent used speaker level inputs myself....i am great with car stereos..but every time i do a stereo i replace the headunit...it can be kept....however, my easy method of doing this install with speaker level inputs is get a set of cheap/good rear speakers and a cheap/good amp for them that has a preamp out switch so that you can still use your rear speakers. essential speaker level inputs take your factory speaker harness and have you splice them to the harness supplied so that you have an input to the amplifier. i dont know if the sound quality would be affected if you spliced off of your speaker wires for the rear (keeping the rear speakers connected) and used that same audio signal for the sub amps.

i hope you follow and i have not lost you....i can clarify or try to mock up drawings if such is needed may take a day to get time to do such...
Im pretty much understand all that, Im looking up all the stuff now.


If you are doing just a sub add on, don't waste your money on cleansweep or the rockford stuff. they work great if you keep the factory head unit and need to re-eq the system and are putting amps and new speakers in all the way around. These devices won't calibrate properly with the low pass signal the shaker 500 system sends out. You will, however, need to use a good quality line out adaptor, like the peripheral sven2, or others like it. I would not recomend the cheap 20 or 30 dollar peices, as they are known to induce noise into the system. Or if your installer is good enough (like myself) he could (could) convert the factory sub out to RCAs, and work some magic. I'm sorry I don;t know the wiring off the top of my head (it's been a few months sice I have done this) but I do remember it was fairly simple for me to do.

HuH?, lol..Why cant i jsut wire in subs and an amp and call it a day??
 

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i think his method may alleviate the use a full system equalizer(which is beneficial if you want the future option to add a nice 4channel), and use a equalizer/processor for the low pass (sub channel) only. i'm thinking. i got confused half way thorugh honestly.

bullitt any clarification for the both of us? if this is better/easier great...i know my methods, if this is another way id love to hear more. please elaborate.
 

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I will look at the Shop's GT500 in the morning and get back with the colors for the factory sub wires.
 

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bullitt any clarification for the both of us? if this is better/easier great...i know my methods, if this is another way id love to hear more. please elaborate.
Sorry for the delay. Here's the easy way. Connect the center pin of a set of rca cables (the center conductor) to the green/purple wire and the shield to the shield wire. Both are found in the 12 pin connector at the Shaker 500 or Shaker 1000 system. That should be all to be :pimp.
 
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