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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My T-5 trans was hard to shift out of 4th gear. Just did not want to shift so I put some pressure on the shifter. Big mistake !!!

The shifter moved but I was still in 4th gear. I found 2nd gear one time and could get to neutral sometimes. I removed the shifter from the trans and still couldn't get the trans to change using the shifter rod. It feels like it is binding somewhere in the trans like maybe the shifter fork or something.

Any ideas ????????????

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for ideas. I just got more info.
The top cover of a T5 houses the shift forks, shift rail, and the shift interlock mechanism. This mechanism prevents the trans from engaging two gears at once. It also acuates the 1-2 fork, and the 3-4 fork.
The 5-reverse fork is opperated by a different interlock (sort of) that is bolted to the inside side of the case. **You know that one bolt that has the torx pattern on in that says DO NOT REMOVE next to it on the side of the case, thats this.**
It sounds like one of these two interlocks came apart first (probably the one in the top cover), eliminating the possibilty of shifting to a lower gated gear: and becoming stuck in 4th....
After forcing the shift of the trans, the other interlock came apart (probably the 5-R interlock) in such a way that the shift rail was stuck in 4th. Once this happenes there is NO getiing it out of 4th without taking the trans apart. Pieces of the interlock are probably now floating around in the bottom, making noise. Drain the trans and see if you can see any pieces in it......


That doesn't sound too serious to me and can be fixed, I found out the interlocks come in the trans rebuild kit that AutoZone sells for under $90. I also found out they sell a book on rebuilding the T-5 at home using hand tools and a bearing press. I plan on pulling the trans and removing the top cover today since the weather is going to be nice and warm.

I'll post my findings later today.

Wish me luck cause I'm going to need it. I have never been into one of these transmissions but built plenty of Muncie 4-speeds back in the late 60's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the trans out and could not figure out how to remove the top cover. Brought it home and figured it out. Remove the rear housing !!!! Duh. So, at this point I'm still in the dark. :confused:

In the meantime, I found a good T-5 for $200. :D

I still plan on buying the book and doing a rebuild on the current trans. Looks like I may need a spare.
 

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There are also several T5 repair videos on the internet, I got mine from badshoeproductions. Very informative and it goes through the process step-by-step. Would definately recommend it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
UPDATE

The $200 T-5 had a bad synchronizer so I didn't get it. I found a local shop to do the repair. The trans had a broken shift fork, two bad synchronizers and two bad or broken interlocks. The gears looked like new, No broken or worn teeth.

Total bill..........$264 parts and labor. Not bad but I have decided the T-5 will be replaced at some point.

The trans had been hammered on pretty good by the previous owner.
 

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Damn I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I've been beating the **** out of my t5 for like 4 years now. I powershift and I've even power shifted on nitrous. I just change my fluid alot and use syncromesh. No issues
 

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UPDATE

The $200 T-5 had a bad synchronizer so I didn't get it. I found a local shop to do the repair. The trans had a broken shift fork, two bad synchronizers and two bad or broken interlocks. The gears looked like new, No broken or worn teeth.

Total bill..........$264 parts and labor. Not bad but I have decided the T-5 will be replaced at some point.

The trans had been hammered on pretty good by the previous owner.
the shop is only replacing syncros and seals i gaurentee it needs at least a 2nd gear probibly a 3rd too and the 2 sliders as well it will work fine for a little while but your gonna run into hard shifts in no time. put royal purple syncromax in it to extend the life of it and it will help it shift a little better too.

the problem with your old one sounds like a broken fork i run across it every now and then. simple chep fix as long as you didnt drive on it much. what happens is one of the sides of the fork that rest in the slider breaks off and it doesnt get even leverage when trying to shift causing the slider to snag on the hub. a new fork is 20.00 all you need is a roll pin punch and hammer to take it off.
 
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