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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
so before you guys freak out go ahead and search yourself nothin comes up for "t56" or similar search entries and jazzer has a stick but it refers to mostly to the reverse sylanoid fix so useful yes but doesnt answer all my questions so here we go.

yesterday i was on my way back to east lansing from torch lake (3 hour drive) and car was perfectly normal went to down shift to fourth getting off the high way and wouldnt come out of fifth. pull over shut the car off mess with the shifter get it into N but it was still shifting super hard (no highway pulls or anything just randomly did this stuff) and now i cant get it into third at all and shifting between other gears seems to be about a 50/50 shot. basically i think its smoked im guessing a bent fork that somehow started acting up in that moment i dont really get it but w.e i guess. anyways:

thought it swap in a t56 while im in there found one local with 50K on it for 500 out of a trans am. then found this Bellhousing, SFI Steel. Ford 03-04 Cobra T-56 | eBay

and am pretty good at fabbing up things so id make my own cross member (made them before for swapping c-6s into mud trucks) out standing questions are: whats the difference in drive shafts and can i re use my clutch that only had about 600 miles on it? thanks ahead of time guys.

edits: more research shows the stock cross member will work if new holes are drilled for the rears and the original rear holes are used for the front this was done on the sn95s i dont know about the new edge i hear a rumor they have the same cross member as the cobra so possibly no modification needed. also my clutch is a 10 spline i don't know what the t56 shaft is.
 

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Abyssinian of AX
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I think it is a mistake to buy a used transmission and especially a manual :(

There are just too many ways to beat it and may not show up right away. My sticky is for a complete swap and goes WAY beyond the reverse switch. Read it again and will find all you need to know, with the possible exception of any differences between the T-3650 & T-45. They may be identical, in terms of driveshaft length and output shaft, but don't know for sure.

Jazzer :)

PS. I think the Cobra and 2V bell housing differ :dunno
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think it is a mistake to buy a used transmission and especially a manual :(

There are just too many ways to beat it and may not show up right away. My sticky is for a complete swap and goes WAY beyond the reverse switch. Read it again and will find all you need to know, with the possible exception of any differences between the T-3650 & T-45. They may be identical, in terms of driveshaft length and output shaft, but don't know for sure.

Jazzer :)

PS. I think the Cobra and 2V bell housing differ :dunno
sorry my bad i thought i read the whole first page of it and only found the reverse lockout reference. i know its rough to buy a used one but i really cant afford a brand new tranny at this point.

does anyone know for sure about the cobra bell housing vs the gt just for clarification?
 

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King Trashmouth
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Biiiiig red flag here.

You're mating up a GM T56 to a GT? Driveline wise you'll be ok with that Cobra bellhousing, but shifter wise no. GM and Ford T56's had different shifter locations. You might end up with a hole in your console with this. Otherwise a Cobra bellhousing is fine, it's the same basic 4.6L block design. You'll also need a different length driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Biiiiig red flag here.

You're mating up a GM T56 to a GT? Driveline wise you'll be ok with that Cobra bellhousing, but shifter wise no. GM and Ford T56's had different shifter locations. You might end up with a hole in your console with this. Otherwise a Cobra bellhousing is fine, it's the same basic 4.6L block design. You'll also need a different length driveshaft.
thanks for the heads up and now the gm t-56 is out the window i hear of guys running the viper t-56 and obviously the cobra one. so which ones will work?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well heres my debate i am on a strict budget seeing as i just dropped in my new motor and still am having nightmares finding a tuner for it. so i am debating swapping in a t-56 (obviously the most expensive option) or finding a cheap t-45 used and just swapping that in to get it on the road till i pay off the motor or rebuilding the one thats in it (im assuming its a third gear synchro and shift fork because it inconsistently goes into all gears very difficult and never goes into third no matter what. I was reading another thread where someone was debating the same thing and im hoping that after he had experience with which ever he decided he can lend some insight

found a used t45 with "new clutch" unkown miles for 350. i have a brand new clutch in mine and a custom built one on the bench so i was gunna investigate the mileage and offer 300 without the clutch.
 

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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
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GM T56 will need a new driveshaft and bellhousing. The cobra one won't fit on the GM tranny. The input and output shafts are different. The shifter location is off. The crossmember will need some customizing. The gear ratios are way wrong for a GT. Finding a used Cobra T56 is tough and expensive and you'd still need a new driveshaft. Getting a new one is easier and more expensive. A built T45 will run you a little over 1k and will bolt right in, no problem.

Call ProMotion: 954.771.5575
Cheapest route is to rebuild the T45 imo.
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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Why not just run the t-45 for now and get the car running?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why not just run the t-45 for now and get the car running?
this is likely the plan. im probably going to get a used t45 and run it till i get the bugs out of the motor. the only thing i dont know is what is a t45 rated for? with the 150 shot ill be over 500rwhp
 

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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
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~400hp but apparently people keep them going higher than that. I'd start considering something stronger around the same time I'd be considering a shortblock. Figure, after the shortblock, the power numbers go up and sooner or later, the tranny isn't going to like the abuse anymore. Especially if you regularly do 6k clutch dumps and powershift your way to the grocery store every couple days.
 

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I Poop Entirely Way Too Much
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The longevity of a transmission depends alot of the use. If your slamming gears real hard and launchin all the time its gonna strain it more. If you shift just a bit slower and let the clutch take more of the abuse you'll last much longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well i found one with 90k and a hurst short throw about 45 mins away for 380 sounds like a decent deal. i understand trying to make one last and i guess ill just have to be more aware of it this go around because im not gunna lie i drive the piss out of my car; run it hard all summer and let it sleep all winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
okay will in the interest of money and strength it sounds like no matter what the tranny wont take what i need.. well hold on heres what im looking at a built n/a 2v hoping to make 350 on it and the running a 150 shot so 95% of the time the t45 would only be taking the 350 o w.e it puts down n/a. then it would be 500+ on nitrous which wouldnt be hitting untill the clutch was fully engaged so on that set up does it sound like i may still be able to run a t-45? and out of curiosity is a auto stronger than a manual transmission? thanks guys for helping me out.
 

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King Trashmouth
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okay will in the interest of money and strength it sounds like no matter what the tranny wont take what i need.. well hold on heres what im looking at a built n/a 2v hoping to make 350 on it and the running a 150 shot so 95% of the time the t45 would only be taking the 350 o w.e it puts down n/a. then it would be 500+ on nitrous which wouldnt be hitting untill the clutch was fully engaged so on that set up does it sound like i may still be able to run a t-45? and out of curiosity is a auto stronger than a manual transmission? thanks guys for helping me out.
On the spray it sounds like it could be a bit of a crap shoot. If you really hammer the gears, dump the clutch at high RPM, have a grabby clutch, and use slicks, you could be in trouble. If you're a little more gentle, softer clutch, tires that are more likely to slip, you should be fine. It doesn't sound like you're quite that abusive so for the most part you should be ok.

Also the reason an auto is largely "stronger" (notice I use quotes) is because of the torque converter. The torque converter mitigates the massive shock you get from the clutch engaging and the tires grabbing, so the shock isn't quite so severe. Thus with less shock the transmission can survive more power, even if its internal components may be the same strength as the manual. But keep in mind an auto swap will be a huge pain compared to a new manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On the spray it sounds like it could be a bit of a crap shoot. If you really hammer the gears, dump the clutch at high RPM, have a grabby clutch, and use slicks, you could be in trouble. If you're a little more gentle, softer clutch, tires that are more likely to slip, you should be fine. It doesn't sound like you're quite that abusive so for the most part you should be ok.

Also the reason an auto is largely "stronger" (notice I use quotes) is because of the torque converter. The torque converter mitigates the massive shock you get from the clutch engaging and the tires grabbing, so the shock isn't quite so severe. Thus with less shock the transmission can survive more power, even if its internal components may be the same strength as the manual. But keep in mind an auto swap will be a huge pain compared to a new manual.

thanks. yeah i didnt really give much thought to an auto the problem may come in the clutch area.... ive got a dual disc custom built one thats basically the same design as tractor pullers and is guaranteed forever (damn near) so give in the clutch isnt really going to happen. ive got crap tires (even though theyre 315-35-17s) so i dunno. it sounds like im going to get a cheap t45 to get it on the road and watch for a viper t56
 

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King Trashmouth
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thanks. yeah i didnt really give much thought to an auto the problem may come in the clutch area.... ive got a dual disc custom built one thats basically the same design as tractor pullers and is guaranteed forever (damn near) so give in the clutch isnt really going to happen. ive got crap tires (even though theyre 315-35-17s) so i dunno. it sounds like im going to get a cheap t45 to get it on the road and watch for a viper t56
The dual disc may work to your favor, as you can feather them a little more than a single plate. They hold like crazy, but you can finese them better.

And good luck with the T-56. I've been looking for awhile, they get snapped up fast! Not to mention they're asking exhorbitant prices for most of them. I might have to give in and order one from MPS salvage.
 
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