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Discussion Starter #1
There has been a lot on the forum about TCI. I'm just about to order a front suspension for my 65 fast back. I wanted to up grade my brakes to the 12" ones, I got a quote from TCI for the up grade. It was around $800.00 What I don't know is if they send the 11" brakes and the 12" ers also because the Wilwood brakes from summit are around $800.00 same as TCI. And they just add $800 to the price of the front end.

So they ether give you two sets for brakes or they don't give you anything off of their price when you don't take the 11" set of brakes.

In that case I would be a head to take the 11" set of brakes from TCI and get my up graded brakes from summit and I could put the extra set on another car

Does any one know how TCI works there up grades??
 

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When you upgrade they send you one set of Disc brakes.

Your idea of two sets sounds like a plan. But keep in mind that spindles are not the same as a Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok the spindles being different I did not know. I can not figure out why they do not credit you back something for the set of breaks you are not getting.
 

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You'll regret buying TCI, trust me. If you want an overpriced front suspension system that has poor geometry and will be covered in rust in a matter of days, then buy TCI. If not, buy another brand.
You cant figure out TCI's math because it doesnt make sense. Why would you need two sets of brakes for one car? That is not a plan! TCI should just discount you the money. I recommend talking to people that have experience with TCI products that are not dealers for TCI
 

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As it has been said before many times,

I started with Rod & Customs front end kits in 2004 used it on two cars with 4.6's.

I then tried Heidts on a 69 Mach1 with a 428.

Then I found TCI, in 2007 and now have used them in 11 Mustangs with 351W stroker motors. Love them The way they go in and way they look, The way they Drive. I Love them. Since buying so many I became a dealer. It saves money.

The kit comes to you bare metal. If you dont do anything with them over a few months or let it get wet. They Rust as All Bare metal does. What we do is have them powder coated to the customers taste.
 

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Whatever kit you are seeing on Summit or Jeg's is not a bolt on kit to the TCI spindle. As Todd already eluded to, there is a credit given for the 11" parts. The outright price is over $1000. The spindle is custom which requires a special caliper bracket only manufactured by Kore3, Baer, or TCI.

For reference the Wilwood part #'s are: Prices were taken directly from Summit's site
Hubs & Rotors = 140-10502 ($464.38) (Granada bearing pins)
Caliper pads = 150-8850K ($41.60)
Calipers = 120-6816-RD ($174.95 ea) (flat black is cheaper)

$855 without caliper brackets.
 

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I think regardless of what system you are looking into that you should speak with CUSTOMERS that have used a product, not dealers that have a vested interest in a company and selling their products.

Now, TCI does offer a powdercoating option for the upper and lower control arms for $100.00, which is a good deal and i recommend getting, especially since their ball joints dont like to screw in and out with ease. I would have them powdercoat the sway bar as well since it is bare steel. Other problem areas are the cast iron tie rods, steering links, and steel power steering lines. TCi provides plated hardware for the upper control arms and engine mounts to frame, but that is about it, unless you count black phosphate as plated, but it is a very thin coating and the bolts rust as soon as it is even remotely humid outside. My long lower control arm bolts are covered in rust and there is really no way to paint them. They could at least provide zinc plated hardware. For the price, i would think and expect that would be the least they could do.

-Now, As far as the steering geometry is concerned, it could be fixed with a different spindle with different length arm. Simple fix, so i am not sure why they have not addressed this issue.

-Be aware that TCI offers two different types of spindles, one that is for standard height and one for dropped. Unless you want to max out the coils just to get your wheels not to rub the inside of the fenders, which will provide a horrible ride, i suggest you go with The standard height spindle. This was not an option when i ordered my TCI kit, so i will be forced to flush more money down the drain on new spindles that will provide the correct ride height and adjustment. MustangOne suggest turning the lower control arms upside down, but I dont believe this is the greateast idea

One last warning: The system looks cheap on paper, but once you pay for install (which i highly recommend unless you are pro welder), pay to replace hardware, pay to fix the steering geometry, and pay to powdercoat the parts, upgrade to decent rotors and calipers, etc. it is quite expensive. Just as expensive if not more expensive than some of the systems that you can install without needing to run around and plate, powdercoat, and replace hardware on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
losts of info, now what do I make of it

I have looked at all the front end systems and for what you pay I think Tci is the best deal.

The reason one would change the front end on a mustang is to fix fords messed up front geometry. WILL TIC'S PRODUCT FIX FORD STOCK FRONT END ?? If it will not fix it why do it.

Thanks for all the opinions
 

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losts of info, now what do I make of it

I have looked at all the front end systems and for what you pay I think Tci is the best deal.

The reason one would change the front end on a mustang is to fix fords messed up front geometry. WILL TIC'S PRODUCT FIX FORD STOCK FRONT END ?? If it will not fix it why do it.

Thanks for all the opinions
I think if you do the math, you will find the Rod and Custom a much better deal. There sway bar comes already powder coated, and your specific engine mounts are already welded in for you. Time wise there system will go in faster. I would also stay with the stock ride height on the spindles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just read SVTstangs post, super snake 2. Now I see why he's P O ed at TCI.

The motor for my 65 fastback I have already built. 5.0 with a Kenny Bell super charger. Lost of cool stuff on it. Cost me a ton to put it together. I could of bought a Coyote and saved money but seeing all the problems trying to make a new 5.0 fit the old 5.0 should be Just fine.
 

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Well, each has their own preference, and I have no stake in any of this, but my research reading on this site has 3 out of 4 pro builders (businesses) that posted here expressed going with Rod & Custom as their preferred front end systems. Reading and research is your friend. Personally, with your motor, I would look at the Detroit Speed setup and I have heard good things about TCP and Maier if you are keeping the shock towers. Are you going to track this car, or just a street machine? If racing is in your plans you need to look at companies that race and win IMO.
 

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I'm a TCI customer. I have the Torque Arm in a 68 convertible mustang. I'm totally satisfied with the product. If I were to cut out my shock towers, I'd use the TCI front kit based on how well the rear works.

That said, there is no need to cut out the towers with a sbf. Street or Track has a nice kit and you might want to look at the new Maier coilover kit as well.

DSE has a great reputation, but I don't think anyone has the new mustang kit installed in a working car yet. I could be wrong, but ther's nothing on the net.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
All the input has been great and it has put me to thinking. Maybe I'm more confussed now. I've been looking at Heidt's Pro G and it's Pretty cool. Has any one ever installed one of those??

DSE front end looks great and it makes a camaro really perform Ha. My problem with theres is its way to price to put in a car that will never be worth more that $24'000.00 (from mustang monthly latest price guide). MY point is there's limits to what I think you should spend on the kind of car I have. It's nothing much special other than a C code fastback.

I live close to Miller Sports Park in Toolle Utah. Were you can get some road race track time and take there driving school. That,s one think I'd planned on doing with the car. The other big one is enter the Silver State Classic in Nevada, were they close a Highway from Ely to Las Vegas of some 90 mile. You pick a speed you want to drive like 120 mph and you try to go from point A to point B as if you were going the 120 the hole time. Those who place are with in just a few seconds of dead on. That one sounds really fun. Then just a fun show car & driver with some wow factor.

Pro G I think is a Kenny Brown design. Looking
 

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If you are using a small block, I really suggest you talk to Shaun at Street or Track. Great stuff that lets you keep the shock towers.
 
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