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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I have been throwing a CE code of lean for a while now, but its intermittent. It will come on for up to a day or so, then go off for a week. I can't justify being hard on my engine or anything prior to either.

My guess is that either one of my O2 sensors is bad or clogged?

Thoughts?


Also


When I pull my e-brake the first time, it will pop and brake loose, allowing my car to roll when I am not in gear. But if I pull it, let it back down, and pull it again, it locks just fine and has never released if I followed that method. Never seen this before, and have no idea what the hell is going on.

Thoughts?


and lastly;

When I get my car over 3,000 rpm or so my battery will lose power consistently with my increase in RPM. I assumed my alt was going bad, but when I went to get it tested I was told it was just fine and had no problems.

Maybe its a bad ground or something? But wouldn't that effect it at all RPM's?

Thoughts?


One or two of the questions I have asked in the past I believe but it was done through a threadjack and I got weak answers, and wasn't even sure if they were directed to me or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
3 different questions for people to take a hack at and nothing?
 

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and lastly;

When I get my car over 3,000 rpm or so my battery will lose power consistently with my increase in RPM. I assumed my alt was going bad, but when I went to get it tested I was told it was just fine and had no problems.

Maybe its a bad ground or something? But wouldn't that effect it at all RPM's?

Thoughts?

Try taking the ALT to a different shop to get checked out, ive seen this happen before, i got my alt tested and the shop said it was ok, then that same week it went completly dead on me... Has the car died on you at all when getting to those rpms? or has the needle on the rpms jumped to the max then back down to nothing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No on the needle thing, but yes it will die if it gets close to redline....not that I redline my car on a day to day drive, but I have mis-shifted once as well as let foot off clutch to late causing my car to redline and die from no power.
 

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Go thru and check all connections related to battery & alt. get both checked at another place as said. Check out e-brake lines as well, make sure everything is not loose or broken. take center console out, check the e-brake from inside the car. Most likely you'll see somethin' messed up. And the CEL does sound like an 02 going out. Sooner or later the light will prolly stay on. They are relatively cheap, maybe replace them and go from there? Did the code tell you bank 1 or 2 or neitheR?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Threw it on driver side about a year or so ago and had it replaced (the o2) and it fixed it, now its doing it again, and for some odd reason they wont/cant tell me which bank.

The CE has been throwing that code for like 4 months or so now and hasn't stayed on longer then a couple of days since. I have no decrease in gas mileage, and it runs just fine.

One of the thoughts that occurred to me was that the problem I seem to have in electrical (assuming my alt) is permitting power to my pump and not allowing fuel to make it into the combustion, which theoretically would throw a lean code..... Follow?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Reps to goren and 03 for the input they provided....


Bump.
 

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I follow what you were trying to say, however I'm not completely familiar with the wiring. Does the fuel pump draw from the alt or straight from the battery? I haven't done much with wiring, etc. besides replacing main components and installing new lines. If it does draw from the alt. then yeah that may be the case. Get the alt checked somewhere else? You have any after market electrical devices? Subs, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nope, stock as far as that is concerned.

I am pretty sure all wiring comes from the battery though?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bump.
 

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If you've messed with any component of your intake system lately, I would check that as unmetered air will cause a lean condition. Faulty injectors could also be to blame... $4.99 can of MAF cleaner worked amazing on my car, instant throttle response after 100K miles of never being cleaned - might help :dunno

Also if you've replaced your MAF with any other than your IDENTICAL stock, the transfer function will be slightly different and the ECU will not correctly calculate the air moving into the motor as the MAF detects it.

I put a '04 GT MAF on my '02 3.8 and it ran like a beast untill the CEL came on and I quickly went back to the stock one as the CEL was a lean code...

Best of luck!
 
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