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The never ending 2v TURBO BUILD

24K views 252 replies 31 participants last post by  lowboost2v 
#1 ·
Since the warmer weather hit I have been able to finally work on the car some. Since we lasted talked I decided to build my own sheet metal intake using some old Hogan Motorsports parts, researched the crap out of intake manifold designs, and finally got started on the building part.

Dropping the transmission off tomorrow for a full build with a MVB and trans-brake. Going to use a TCI Outlaw shifter with it as well. Taking the Edge converter out and swapping to a Circle D triple disc.

Starting to gather the rest of my gauges and other misc items. Everything that can be converted to AN or NPT fittings will be as well.

Hoping in May to drop the car off for the turbo kit, tubular upper/lower radiator supports, and other little things too.

This is now the old never used intake setup...





This is the beginning of the new intake and how I am going to make it look similar too.









How I am going to design the plenum.









Waiting for the base to come in to start fabbing up a plenum lid.

More to come this weekend :):screwy:
 
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#4 ·
Thanks Eagle. All is starting to finally fall into place and the way I want it to. My goal is 10.50's with the stock 4.6 2v longblock. Just got conformation on the plenum base so once that gets here I can have the lower part welded up.
 
#9 ·
My goal is 10.50's with the stock 4.6 2v longblock.
So just turn up the boost. It's simple math....You need to be making at least 500rwhp to do it at race weight of 3200lbs.

Kool that you are tring to build it your self, but not gonna help you with stock longblock.
 
#5 ·
damn scott, where did you find such fancy parts? that is bad ass that you got the plates and the runners. are you going to weld them then gasket match them? my only area of concern looking at the picture is the fuel injector location on the wilson manifold. you will want the injector to be aiming at the valve not the intake runner. also are you leaving it long runners with the valuates in the manifold? or are you going to cut them down and weld them to the base of the manifold? i would leave them long and in the manifold with a removable lid
 
#6 ·
The injector bungs are already in the flanges. The runners are 8" long. The trumpets will be enclosed by the plenum. I'd like to make the plenum top removable but probably won't.
 
#8 ·
Scott was is your overall goal? you spend money on everything except the one key ingredient that you desperately need for Boost" Your Short block. You already had the fuel, intercooler and turbo to make stupid power and drastically increase your times.

Hope you don't take offense or take it the wrong way im just trying to understand what your up to.
 
#11 ·
Your a smart guy and pretty motivated to try new things so lets put that thing in high gear and get up there in the 700+RWHP 2V Club running 9's with y2k and Shark bait and froush.

Here comes some humor no offense intended to anyone were a small community of enthusiasts that can joke around every now and then.

Im certain Scott holds the Record for more intercoolers and intakes on the stock motor then anyone.

I'm pretty sure y2ko2 holds the record for the most time removing and rebuilding his motor in one year. His garage shelves have more heads then a Chinese Dragon :)

Im pretty sure I hold the record for having spent more money than anyone and having a 11.5 time slip under my belt and the slowest car to HP ratio EVER. Seems every thousand I spend I lose power and time.

Froush has the record for just being an overall Cheap Skate and thrift shopper yet seems to ALWAYS come out on top. Teach me ole cheap one LOL

Stal? Still working on you

WE need to start a funny records page. LOL
 
#26 ·
I might have the record for buying the most rotating assemblies without building a short block. I have bought a 2 stock stroke assemblies and 1 3.8 and 1 3.75 stroker assemblies.
 
#13 ·
Hey im digging into the Vault so no need to call yourself out ill take care of that LOL
 
#14 ·
Haha yeah I know i should be building an engine right now but unfortunately I'm not. Once I do I'll have everything ready for it thought. I'm won't be skipping a single step on the engine build. Goin to cost a pretty penny or two. Goal is 10.50's or better. I dropped the transmission off today to have it build. There goes $2500 bucks without a converter or shifter. I'm just having fun with it stock motor or not.
 
#15 ·
Who is doing your tranny? what are they doing?

I hear you on that motor don't skip anything, when I find a good deal on another block ill be building me a spare 2V SB.
 
#16 ·
STLMustangs in Park Hills, MO. FB MVB, 300m stub, clutches, deep pan, ect. Good enough for over 850whp. After that I'll swap a turboglide in it.
 
#17 ·
Yeah the engine will be TFS heads, GT followers, custom grind cams, forged crank, forged I-beams, diamond turbo spec'd pistons, TSS oil pump gears, ARP through out.
 
#18 ·
Hands down you'll need a hardened input shaft, They have a one piece now that replaces the input and intermediate shaft with the one billet shaft. This one piece is about 500-600$ but its a necessary piece of the puzzle.
 
#20 ·
So yesterday I got ambitious and decided to delete my ABS wiring from the harness and wire tuck the rest of the driver side. Once the intake is further along I will tuck the COP and injector harness in the valley of the engine as well.

Going to try and start deleting my EVAP stuff as well today if I get time before family events start.











I'm still waiting on my Scottrodfab engine panels to show up to cover the inner fenders too.
 
#23 ·
No I chased the wires till they either went into the firewall or into a different plugs. Used heat shrink to cover the exposed ends and wrapped.

You can do it. Wires by far intimidate me the most. Just take your time and before you cut anything triple check what you're cuttings. Used good solder and heat shrink everything you soldered.
 
#28 ·
all the wires for the ABS pump go to a connector somewhere so you can unpin them from it. thats how i did it anyways.
 
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