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Discussion Starter #1
There is always a lot of talk about nitrous and its been suggested by a few people to have a nitrous thread so lets do it.

I'll try and find some of the good tech articles I've seen before on kits and practical use and some wiring articles that should be a good read for all of you trying to get into nitrous for the first time.

Also there are quite a few people on this forum that are Nitrous savvy, not that any of us are expects, but most of us have been running spray for a few years now so I'm sure some good advice can be derived from here.

Lets see those questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I found a few good articles that cover most of the basics.

I think the biggest thing for poeple who are unsure about nitrous or who are thinking about using it but hesitant is to realize that Nitrous isn't some extremely crazy super duper crazy cracked out liquid version of c4 in a bottle... It's simply compressed oxygen... so in that sense it's a bottled version of what a supercharger or a turbo is producing. So cast aside all the movie bs you've ever seen about nitrous because its not the ricer censation bigger bottle bigger bang movie crap you've seen lol.

When set up correctly nitrous is just as safe, if not safer, then bolting a supercharger to your mustang. It's extremely efficient and makes a ton of torque.... why does it make so much torque and why is it so efficient.....

well its mostly due to the fact that it enters the intake manifold below freezing temps, nitrous actually boils ( turns from liquid to gas ) at some odd degree's under 0. So unlike a turbo or supercharger it does not have to be cooled. The boiling effect of nitrous is actually how the bottle pressure is maintained as well. The bottle heater applies heat to the liquid nitrous and causes it to boil to maintain that 950 psi ( 950 psi is the optimal bottle pressure for most kits ). The nitrogen assist kits work a little differently by applying a cap of either nitrogen or compressed air to the top of the bottle in a gas form. This method is actually preferred if your going to be drag racing as it always maintains that 950 psi until your completely out of nitrous where-as a bottle heater will only work until you reach about 30% of the bottle and then it won't be able to create enough pressure to optimaly use the nitrous thats left. Another negative thing about bottle heaters is that they can't keep up with the flow of nitrous in a complete 1/4 mile pass. If you theoretically had your nitrous kit jetted for a 200hp shot of nitrous you would start the 1/4 mile run with that 200 shot and likely be trapping on about a 100hp shot. But, if you were running a nitrogen assist kit you would start and finish the race without loosing any bottle pressure and flow of nitrous.




Nitrous tech article:
Nitrous Oxide Tech Guide at AmericanMuscle
Nitrous, Nitrous Oxide - Tech, Basics, Terminology - Hot Rod
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here are a few safety tips as well:

Colder plugs : Always a good idea to run a stage colder plugs if your doing any sort of f/i

Bottle heater or nitrogen assist : Very important to maintain that bottle pressure

Window switch : The window switch is probably the most important part of your nitrous kit, other then the wot switch. The window switch will allow you to program when you want nitrous to come in and out at and in what gear. So basically a normal setup would be 2500 rpm to 6500 rpm in 1-6 gear. You can play with this to get better traction when using the kit or to just however you want to run your nitrous. Remember never to introduce nitrous below 2500rpm, it's a good way to screw up your internals. You also never want to be spraying while pinging off your rev limiter, thats how most people blow there intake manifolds off while racing with nitrous. To avoid this adjust your window switch max rpm to a few hundred rpm below your rev limiter.

WOT Switch : ( Wide Open Throttle ) This is also extrememly important. Most nitrous kits now on the market have these integrated into the NMU ( nitrous management unit, the box that your lines go into ). This prevents you from introducing nitrous while your not at wide open throttle.

Gauge : It's always better to be safe then sorry, it's a good idea to have a gauge so you can check your bottle pressure before making a pass.

Purge kit : Some people think these are just for show but there absolutely necessary in most cases. Not only do you use the purge to clear the lines but its also really the only thing you'll have to drop some pressure when its nice and hot outside. When the temps start getting in the 90's your bottle full will probably have anywhere from 1000psi to 1200psi.

Feel free to ad some info in here guys, I'm not an expert and I wrote this all kind of hastily so if I messed something up or missed some stuff chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Double post....

Forgot to mention down tubes though.

Down tubes are required at most tracks with a tech inspection in order to run nitrous. It's simply a tube that goes from your nitrous bottle thats routed outside the vehicle. This is in case your bottle pressures go sky high and it blows that burst disk in the bottle.
I mean last thing you need is for your car to catch on fire with you inside and then have a bunch of compressed air not only fueling the fire but also getting you high as hell at the same time.
 

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It's nice to see a dedicated thread for nitrous. I have an old nitrous kit laying around my place but am still trying to decide to run it or not. If I do I am going to start out with a 50 shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What year is your car ridin??
A 50 shot is pretty dang on small lol. I wouldn't even really waste your time with it.
If you have a midly modded stang then start with a 75 shot..... but beware its addictive :D
You'll be pumping a 125 shot into that GT in no time lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, fyi ridin I had a 2010 I fed with a 150 shot with full bolt ons and had no issue with it. Only problem I had was the stupid zex nmu kept cutting in and out which almost toasted my car.
 

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Good job man. If I were back in J-ville, I'd have you help me install some NAWSSS on mine. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
lol I'm about to put the bottle to mine and quick effin around I think.
It's a lot cheaper then a procharger and I can easily take it on or off and not really have to worry about it when I'm just doing the daily driver thing.

Definitately going with a plate kit this time and I"m probably gonna run a 100hp shot with the steeda cai and the boss manifold. That should net me somewhere around 525hp and hopefully around 570 rwtq.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well thats the last time I run a zex kit I tell you that lol.
I made some good passes out here in fayetteville but fealt something wasn't right. Then I noticed ( right before my inlet elbow blew off ) that it was rapidly coming in and out. Just a pos nmu. I had used zex kits before with no problems but thats the last time.
Plate systems with exposed solenoids are the only thing I'm doing now.
 

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I have an 11 figured I would start at a 50 that way when I get bored of the power I can just put in a bigger jet and retune it. I have also been hearing the stock clutch only lasts a couple runs with a 100 or higher shot and I don't feel like putting in a new clutch right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@ Testakleez its just like any other mod or power adder. You will need a tune to run Nitrous. Some people can get away with running a 50 shot or so with no tuning but I wouldn't do it.

@ ridinGT a clutch should be at the top of your list when your doing any kind of power adder. It's only a matter of time before the stock clutch is going to crap out on you anyways, especially when your talking about high rpm launches on drag radials with 100 more feet lb of torque then your car is designed to handle.
A 50 shot is almost going to go un noticed, well for the money its gonna kind of suck lol. And then to have to retune the car after you realize that the first two times you drop the hammer its gonna get expensive. A nitrous kit is like 700 - 900 bucks. Dyno tuning your car gets expensive and especially for going from a 50 shot to a 75 or 100 shot.
But its your money and a 50 shot wouldn't touch the stock clutch I'd imagine. My 2010's stock clutch lasted till I had modded it pretty heavily with n/a parts and then just **** the bed on me right after a dyno pull outside
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sure will. I'll be relying on my performance shop guy to send me pictures. I'm deployed right now but I'm ordering the NX plate system, zex window switch, sound of speed a pillar gauge pod, Nano nitrogen assist kit, few gauges, racestar 15" big and littles, and a few odds and ends over the next two months and hopefully have it all together and ready to dyno when I get back in July.
I'm also going to be running the steeda cai, mcloud clutch kit, and boss intake trying to hopefully make around 550rwhp and 600rwtq on this combination out of a 100hp shot.
 

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Double post....

Forgot to mention down tubes though.

Down tubes are required at most tracks with a tech inspection in order to run nitrous. It's simply a tube that goes from your nitrous bottle thats routed outside the vehicle. This is in case your bottle pressures go sky high and it blows that burst disk in the bottle.
I mean last thing you need is for your car to catch on fire with you inside and then have a bunch of compressed air not only fueling the fire but also getting you high as hell at the same time.

blow down tubes are only required if the bottle is in the cabin with you if its in the trunk you are fine
 
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