will get a turbo one day as well as a volvo head (I have 90% of parts for each)
Also, I will convert to EEC-V, in order to get Coil on Plug ignition.
Right now, in the process of converting to EDIS. Need to figure out the 36-1 trigger wheel and sensor.
Currently, I'm running a v8 ecu from a 95 Mustang; T4M0.
SEFI, fan control, and fully developed tuning Strategy with better support than any 2.3t ecu.
I tried an LA3 and never could get the idle satisfactory. I think SEFI (vs batch fire) was a big part of that...
I also have a ranger roller cam, ranger header with WB installed, adjustable cam gear (still at 0*), pcv elimination via a catch can (ready for a vac pump though).
93 2.3L 5 spd Coupe
96 V6 master cyl
MM 3 into 2 master cyl brake line kit
MM proportioning valve eliminator kit
Adjustable proportioning valve with pressure gauge
Turbocoupe rear end with disk brakes
V8 front spindles and brakes
V8 frt and rear swaybars
Spec Stage 3 clutch
off road midpipe with Y into V8 dual flow's with chrome V8 tips
Preparing to tune with Moates and BE as soon as Sailorbob gets me my unlock code
stinger header and cold side kit
60 trim turbo
V8 T5 swap
caster camber plates
Immediate changes: Return things to stock to pass emissions and inspection, fix whatever's causing my insane high idle, new brake master cylinder, brake lines, etc. Need to figure out why I don't have low beams, whether it's the headlight switch or the combo switch in the column.
Future mods: I've got a 351W and a 9" housing for it, we'll see where it goes. It was still wet from rain when I took this pic...the clear is badly peeled.
Ratty is usually the only thing in my budget! I can run it through a wire wheel and strip all the rust and whatnot off, and shoot it with some paint. Bright red '93 hatch, so maybe flat black with aluminium on the heat shield? Looks like it's 2.5-3", so I could chop it to use if I ever get around to doing my turbo build.
Speaking of which, have you looked at doing a 2.3t? It'd be a very easy swap as far as wiring harness and everything, and it'll handle much better than with that big ol' 351 up front. If you insist on 351 though, find yourself a 351C shortblock and put the fuel injected 351W top end on it. I hear the cleaveland has a better stroke, more cheap power!
Your budget sounds an awful lot like mine. The 351 just happened to come with the car, so it's kind of an "I don't really have to spend $ right now to get a (insert engine here), and the 2.3 runs". It does like to idle high, but I've got a lot to do on it right off the bat. I just ordered a headlight switch and brake master cylinder. Yes, they had to order them. I found something neat in the car; a little metal tag along with an original dealer sheet folded up in the back of the original owners manual. Car was originally sold in FL for something over $8k, I should see if I can scan these in.
A guy I know is trying to sell a 351 with forged pistons and a few other go fast goodies for a few hundred bucks. He's an engineer and VERY anal about his stuff, so I'm sure it's got some good stuff in it.
Get an SVO master cylinder. Do a rear disc swap and bigger front brakes, you'll be good to go. The 4cyls smaller brakes might create a problem with that big ol' 5.8 up front. Or, sell the 351. A 2.3t is cheaper and easier, can build alot of power, lightweight so they're faster and handle better...plus, you'd only have to make a few modifications to your existing wiring harness to get it done!
Food for thought. You can get a full SVO motor (or turbocoupe motor) for $500. Parts are cheap, easy to work on. Plenty of room up front too lol
Well, we'll see what happens. Not having a bunch of luck finding a turbo coupe drivetrain, but, there's nothing set in stone yet anyways. Upgrades and improvements will happen at some point down the line. Here's what I found in the owners manual. I smudged out the VIN, just because. That little silver looking thing in the middle is the metal tag that was with the paper.
supper 44 flowmaster
rear battery transfer
radiator off a v8(runs nice and cool)
5 lug conver
tuck the engine bay
new radiator fan that doesnt look huge to save space and some weight
strip the interior and start buying everything new
weight reduction, some more weight reduction ... o and then some more weight reduction lol
one the reduction process is set ill do some head work nothing major.
may b a small cam swap(one that makes a diff but wont have to work with the computer) some porting and shaving of the head
thats just for starters, i wana see how far i can go with a naturally aspire engine
well talk turbo later when im done with school in march
Hey guys im looking to build a 2.3 for a race car, most motors ive found are fuel injected 2.3s, can i take the 8 plug head off, switch it with 4 plug from an older model and run carburetor and do away with all computer and stuff,
Been researching engine swaps for my 1957 Austin Healey 100-6. Thinking about a 2.3 turbo with a T-5 transmission.
Lots to digest. Use an 87-88 Thunderbird 2.3 Turbo, Mustang SVO, Ranger roller rockers, Duratec etc??. Can anyone point me in a direction? What is the best combination of engine...
Well this is a shot in the dark since this section is pretty dead, but hopefully there's one or two lurkers out there that could help.
Basically I still have my 88 2.3 LX for shits and giggles. I've got some parts laying around the garage and I'm curious what I can do, especially in regards to...
I have a Ranger 2.5 intake. Motor is stock. Aside from UDP headers and exhaust and 17lb Bosch injectors. Has an SVO 5spd swap and 3.73 gears. I'd like to have it ported before installing it and half shaft the TB. In the future i would like to step up to a 2.5 ported head as well. Question is do...
I really hate having to swing my leg under the wheel when I get in . Wife doesn't mind but I do . Especially if making frequent stops . If I get a column from a 5spd car will I have a problem with not having the A/T lock out ? I drove around with an automatic column on my 5spd Jeep for years...