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Fourbangin it :)
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20 Posts
yea im down do do some head work sometime this upcoming year. first i want the weight reduction to wrk some majic. allot of people under estimate the power of weight reduction and distribution
 

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Rider
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99 Posts
Never posted on here, so I figured I might as well revive this thread...haha

Andrew
87 LX 2.3 POS
mods: converted to T5, steeda Tri-Ax short throw, H&R super sport lowering springs, sn95 rear sway bar, head milled .015, 4 hole 19lb injectors from a 4.0 exploder(about to go in), weight reduction and lots of new parts...

PLANS!!
Well eventually I'm looking at a goal of around 280-350 streetable horsepower/25mpg as a daily and also when I wanna try an autocross or something be able to own that pretty well...so mods probably in order of when I will get them are...
walbro 255 pump w/ fuel system, ford rebuild kit/billet&bronze internals on the T5, esslinger long rod kit .030 over with maybe a stoker crank, hx35 or other turbo, stinger FM intercooler and header kits, 2.5 exhaust, 13" 5 lug disc brake conversion.
MAYBE boport 1.9 roller cam, ported lower/gutted upper intake, boport head..
Lots of suspension, 5.0 bellhousing conversion plate with 10.5 clutch, paint, new interior, a pair of subwoofers, and maybe a slight cage are all things I might do along the way...

I'm looking/thinking that all the engine mods to hit my goal will be no more than $3800(not including the maybe parts), so I hope to have that done by the end of the year if all goes well
 

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Registered
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65 Posts
OK this thread is old but here goes!
Eddie
I found a 100,000 mile one owner 93 notch that was parked for the last 6 years.
It is ugly blue over the original bright red (EP) that it will be going back to.
Only mods are svo tail light and pony rims.

I have a complete drive train out of a 88 tc that will be finding it's way in by the end of the year. T-5 swap as soon as I find the bellhousing and other parts.





 

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51 Posts
Well, I might as well post mine up here...

Name: Christian

Car: 1993 Ford Mustang LX 2.3L

Mods: Mostly body modification and interior/exterior restoration.
Wants: Subframe connectors and MM suspension in the future.
Needs: To finish the thing so I can drive it!

How it started...


A test fitting...


Torn down and primered...


Starting to get there...


Up close of a Fender...


The whole build is being documented on the corral...

1993 LX - Cobra Conversion Project... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum



And yes, it is staying a 2.3L.
 

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Registered
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16 Posts
Name's Frank, I have a 84 notch iv been tinkering with for a while, started with a carb 2.3.

Current Engine Performance mods:

* 1987 Thunderbird 2.3 turbo swap
* EFI coversion
* Stage3 Bo-port head
* Essy 2277 cam kit
* MSG blaster coil
* Supercoupe throttle body
* 40 Bob gutted upper ported lower, ported and flow tested by Bo-port
* Proform Electric Fan
* Kirban fuel pressure regulator
* 255pph walbro intank pump
* Holset WH1C
* Twin Tial MV-S wastegates
* Delphi 85 pph injectors (893 cc at 43 psi Fuel pressure)
* Stinger Performances intercooler kit
* Forge bov
* NGK Iridium IX plugs
* Bo-port twin scroll turbo manifold
* 3"exhaust to Magnaflow with a turn down before axle
* Stinger Performance's "P.I.M.P"

Current Drive Train And Suspention Mods:

* 8.8 swap with 3:55 gears and posi
* 31 spine axles
* Spec stage3 clutch
* 1987 Thunderbird T5 swap (B&M short shifter)
* AJE tubular K-member and A-arms
* Tubular upper and lower control arms
* GT front and rear shocks
* 265/50/16 BFG G-Force drag radials
* 1988 GT front brake swap/upgrade

Monitoring Mods:

* Autometer boost gauge
* Autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge
* AEM wideband

Interior Appearance Mods:

* Black arm rests
* Black dash pad
* Black lock knobs
* Black latch bezels
* Modified black lock switch bezels
* Black e-brake bezel
* Grant 415 steering wheel
* Shift knob from an 88' mustang
* Custom carbon fiber gauge plate
* Green gauge cluster lights
* Black seat covers
* Black Turbo badge

Exterior Appearance Mods:

* 16" pony wheels
* 2.3 badges

EST. 300 RWHP @14.5psi
EST. 12.XX 1/4 mile
 

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Pays in respect
Joined
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2,891 Posts
Name's Frank, I have a 84 notch iv been tinkering with for a while, started with a carb 2.3.

Current Engine Performance mods:

* 1987 Thunderbird 2.3 turbo swap
* EFI coversion
* Stage3 Bo-port head
* Essy 2277 cam kit
* MSG blaster coil
* Supercoupe throttle body
* 40 Bob gutted upper ported lower, ported and flow tested by Bo-port
* Proform Electric Fan
* Kirban fuel pressure regulator
* 255pph walbro intank pump
* Holset WH1C
* Twin Tial MV-S wastegates
* Delphi 85 pph injectors (893 cc at 43 psi Fuel pressure)
* Stinger Performances intercooler kit
* Forge bov
* NGK Iridium IX plugs
* Bo-port twin scroll turbo manifold
* 3"exhaust to Magnaflow with a turn down before axle
* Stinger Performance's "P.I.M.P"

Current Drive Train And Suspention Mods:

* 8.8 swap with 3:55 gears and posi
* 31 spine axles
* Spec stage3 clutch
* 1987 Thunderbird T5 swap (B&M short shifter)
* AJE tubular K-member and A-arms
* Tubular upper and lower control arms
* GT front and rear shocks
* 265/50/16 BFG G-Force drag radials
* 1988 GT front brake swap/upgrade

Monitoring Mods:

* Autometer boost gauge
* Autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge
* AEM wideband

Interior Appearance Mods:

* Black arm rests
* Black dash pad
* Black lock knobs
* Black latch bezels
* Modified black lock switch bezels
* Black e-brake bezel
* Grant 415 steering wheel
* Shift knob from an 88' mustang
* Custom carbon fiber gauge plate
* Green gauge cluster lights
* Black seat covers
* Black Turbo badge

Exterior Appearance Mods:

* 16" pony wheels
* 2.3 badges

EST. 300 RWHP @14.5psi
EST. 12.XX 1/4 mile
Secondedededed. Pictures!
 

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Registered
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496 Posts
Gene

92 hatch 2.3 lx, 8 plug n/a
crappy cai, egr delete, new spark plugs, oil change w/ seafoam treatment, new tires.

future plans
might possibly become a supercharged 2.5 stroker eventually
ranger came, head, all the long stroke internals. 3.45 rearend
ram air nose from 86 foxbody, lx side skirts, gt bumper.
5-speed swap w/ t5
 

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2 Posts
Hello. I have a 93 4 banger and have spent all day trying to find informaion on where my fuel pump relay is located. I have the supposed replacment from Car Quest, but can find nothing on the firewall, shock tower or under the drivers seat that is it. Can you help?
Thanks, Ron
 

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Registered
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496 Posts
Hello. I have a 93 4 banger and have spent all day trying to find informaion on where my fuel pump relay is located. I have the supposed replacment from Car Quest, but can find nothing on the firewall, shock tower or under the drivers seat that is it. Can you help?
Thanks, Ron
the fuel relay should be under the driver seat unless someone has moved it over the years. on my 92 4 banger it site right comfortably under the drivers seat.
 

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Registered
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51 Posts
the fuel relay should be under the driver seat unless someone has moved it over the years. on my 92 4 banger it site right comfortably under the drivers seat.
Old post but to correct the record...

The fuel pump relay is located in the IRCM on the 91-93 Mustangs. Some of the 302 powered cars had the pump relay under the seat, but IIRC that changed in 93 as well. If the relay is bad, you can either buy a new IRCM or rebuild the current one.
 

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Wlcm 2 costco, I Love You
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124 Posts
Hey guys I'm rudy I have a 91 notch back red. Work in progress, 2.3t swap, what's in it is a stock 2.3l right now, running shitty but with some help from you guys and some days off I might get her back to being spunky again.
Hey at least you have ponies, and modern headlamps.

BTW, you are running the original coil packs, so I presume you are running the original DIS.

They are prone to failure and can cause mistiming/misfiring.

If your car randomly throws check lights, that come and go, randomly decides not to accelerate. Or if the tach "dances" occasionally, you may gave a bad DIS module or coil packs.

If you do a self test and get error code 223 then that could cause the bad running.

When I changed out the DIS module and the coils, both coil packs were cracked on the corners around the mounts, I believe, and on the bottom, might be worth unscrewing your packs and making sure that they are still solid.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 PM ----------

In my picture I still have the original coils, but there gone now, :).
 

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LORD ZERO VENOM SUPREMACY
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917 Posts
Hey at least you have ponies, and modern headlamps.

BTW, you are running the original coil packs, so I presume you are running the original DIS.

They are prone to failure and can cause mistiming/misfiring.

If your car randomly throws check lights, that come and go, randomly decides not to accelerate. Or if the tach "dances" occasionally, you may gave a bad DIS module or coil packs.

If you do a self test and get error code 223 then that could cause the bad running.

When I changed out the DIS module and the coils, both coil packs were cracked on the corners around the mounts, I believe, and on the bottom, might be worth unscrewing your packs and making sure that they are still solid.

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 PM ----------

In my picture I still have the original coils, but there gone now, :).


Where did you buy the dis and coil packs I would like to keep this motor Running as long as possible and maybe buy a cheap shell to keep as dd or something.
 

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Wlcm 2 costco, I Love You
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124 Posts
I just got generic from AZ. But don't waste your money unless you know the Ignition system is bad. You may just have bad plugs, bad plug wires, or something else. I would run a self test first and see what codes it pulls.

How To Run A Self Test

The test port is gray and says "EEC IV Test" I do believe, just use any wire and ground it (the plug) to battery neg and follow the above instructions.

OBD even in its first generation is a major thing that makes DIY work alot easier. :thumb:

Bad running can be a million things, hence why OBD is so helpful.

It just so happened to be that my car was one with a bad ignition system. One of the biggest symptoms of a bad DIS is a dancing tack, i.e. the tack moves without any change in the engine, it may spudder, read high, etc, etc. This is because the tach gets its signal from the DIS, Bad DIS may = Funky Tach readings.

Also make sure its nothing stupid like a vacuum leak, any original lines would be pretty deteriorated by now.
 
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