Coil Over Setup
$200 - CC plates
No Sway Bars
$360 Coil Overs - Front
$450 Coil Overs - Rear $1600 - TOTAL (their package)
Thats $400 more, and you will never upgrade it again. Plus you will have better handling, smoother ride and adjustable ride height.[/QUOTE]
This part confuses me in regards to the coilover setup. Why would I need to purchase new shocks/struts and front/rear coilovers if the adjustable coilovers come with shocks/struts? Were you referring to "coilovers" as simply the springs? If so, that seems a bit excessive. MM offers front and rear adjustable coilovers with springs for $450 front and $450 rear.
Nvm, disregard my previous question. I didn't realize the struts and shocks were seperate from the conversion kit. This all makes sense now. Thanks for the helpful information everyone, this is a great thread.
Depends on how you drive the car. IMO, CC plates are mandatory and STBs are nothing but ballast. At this point I haven't driven a car before and after the install of a bump-steer kit, but if you're not noticing bump-steer and/or not pushing the car in the twisties, you likely don't need it (and you don't have to take anything else apart to get to it, so there's no advantage to doing it as a while-you're-in-there).
Going from a fox mm tubular a arm to a sn95 forward offset mm tubular a arm on a fox,
Im running the standard offset a arms with the mm k member (3/4 of an inch forward) i want to switch to the forward offset a arms(1.5inches forward) and a longer a arm (more negative camber/more caster)
What would be the grip increase? Is there a precentage? 10% more grip? 20% more? I know theres a minute increase in weight distribution as well.
I've never seen grip quantified in the way you're looking to have it expressed.
Grip is based on the tire (and all it's related variables like temp and pressure), the surface, the forces applied (lateral/accelerative), the slip angle, and amount of weight on the tire.
Moving the tire forward and out is changing the static weight on the tire slightly, and the dynamic forces that are applied to the tire. If you can quantify all of those in their current conditions and in their new conditions, you might be able to generate some sense of how much less of a certain load there is on the tire in certain conditions, and then calculate how much more speed you can then carry to come back to the load that was previously applied.
Or, do before and after testing and compare lap times. That's really the ultimate judge of how effective the part is.
Im trying to justify 350 dollar a arms, and the swaybar relocation bracket ill need to run those a arms correctly, i think im going to wait for now just because shes getting lots of changes soon and if i can these a arms im going to have to change so much other things, iam curious if anyone has seen an improvment from std offset a arms to forward offset a arms
This how to is going to go over how to install a 2010+ steering wheel into your 05-09 (I did the Boss steering wheel into my 06) and have all of the buttons function properly.
PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE THING BEFORE STARTING, TRUST ME
I'm not responsible if you mess something up
I'm looking to build a forged short block. A buddy has a Teksid block to sell me as a foundation.
My questions are:
1. - How do I know it is a Teksid?
2. - What should I look at visually in general when buying a used engine block? (Obviously there shouldn't be holes in the side of the...