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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #1
I believe the housing is not flat. I've gone through 4 gaskets, 2 tubes of rtv and a curse storm. When I drive the car it leaks a puddle right under the housing but only when driven not while parked. How can I check if its warped so I dont buy a new housing for no reason or can I fix my stock housing?
 

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Well depending on how badly its potentially warped you could take something you know for a fact is perfectly straight and put it across, if you see significant gaps then you know its warped. I would expect to see SOME light regardless though, so dont think all is lost if you see a little. For example I have a high precision little ruler that I know has a real straight edge. If you want an accurate measurement of exactly how warped it is you could use some feeler gauges, that would give you the best idea on whether its actually warped. Slide them between the gap and if in one spot you can fit a bigger gauge than the rest then its got some warp.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #4
I had a similar problem...mine was a small leak. What i finally did was buy a felpro permant gasket for the housing..couple of bucks. Thàt solved it for me.
Where did you get that gasket from? Is it the rubber one? Cause if so it didnt work for me
 

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hi you can call me mater
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4,845 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
autozone.
its blue and orange...i think its hard rubber / silicon shell
Do you mean black and orange? Its like a kind of thick rubber gasket? Its their "best" gasket that cost $10 vs their other $.99c gaskets?
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah...its the most expense gasket option...felpro for the win
Well I tried it and it didnt work.
Whats strange is that it only leaks when I drive the car not when it idles. What I did notice is that it SPRAYS the coolant cause I had it on the cold air intake and upper intake and the area under the thermostat housing is flooded. But the problem is I cant tell where exactly the leak is coming from because it only SPRAYS when driving. I guess ill shell out the money for a new housing
 

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Want a great way to plane a surface? Get a belt sander. Not even kidding. That's one of the age old tricks to making sure header surfaces are completely flat before installation. Use a fairly fine grit and sand it until it's even with no spots of untouched metal.
I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #13
I was going to suggest a sanding block and 400 grit sand paper but didn't want to sound stupid. I guess either one would work, its a cheap alternative and you don't have anything to lose because if it doesn't work you'll have to replace the housing either way.
I dont have a sanding belt, but I do have a sanding block. I guess I'll give it a try
 

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I mean even if you end up angling it slightly as long as theres no grooves or anything I imagine it should work fine. Its not exactly high precision there
 

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hi you can call me mater
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Discussion Starter #16
^^^ old school for the win.
anything larger then the base of the housing should work.
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
 

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hi you can call me mater
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4,845 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Heck yeah I've heard that on some methods old school is better and add the "pristine" factor lol

Greenshift: I have access to the FORD diagrams and it showed the housing followed by thermo gasket and finally thermostat. BUT on multiple forums I read that they recommend the housing followed by the thermostat and finally the thermo gasket.
Which method should I go with? I've been going with the second method due to the thermostat being held in the groove of the housing by the gasket but I guess the ford diagrams are there for a reason
Anyone?
 

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hi you can call me mater
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4,845 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
when i installed i mine i dropped it in the groove then gasket then housing.
worked for me.
just apply rtv on both sides for insurance.
Well ill be damned I found the leak. I got the car to running temp...reved to 3k and its the hose that is connected to the bleeder valve. I let it cool down and changed the factory clamp and its fixed. Reps to you and greenshift though(when I get on a computer) cause of the ideas
 
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