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Discussion Starter #1
So this is my first build thread but certainly not my first build. I have recently noticed that one of my Bilstein front shocks is leaking from the top seal after only about 4000 miles. I have been wanting to do a more drag oriented set up on my car for a while now so I felt this was a good time. My complete Maximum Motorsport coil over kit is coming off of my car will be sold in the upcoming weeks and the Modded Mustang crew gets first dibs.

The new set up consists of Strange 10 way front and rear shocks with QA1 12-200 springs and stock GT rear springs. The rear springs came courtesy Jesse (jgib4) on this site, he's the man!! I also picked up a set of Team Z Street Beast lower control arms.



Along with the suspension, I will be swapping out my exhaust manifolds for a set of Ford racing headers. I pick these never installed headers up locally at a pretty good price. The MD county I live in has some iffy emissions laws and was the reason I went with the shorty style header over long tubes. I smoothed out all of the welds at the flange to primary connections but didn't take out some much material to cause strength issues. I also cleaned up slag and some crappy cuts on the inside of the headers. Hopefully they work well with my cams.



I'll try to update with install pics and any tips along the way.

Thanks,
SK
 

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SleeperStang
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Glad you could put them to use! Did you ever talk with your tuner about going back to him after you get the headers installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm going to play it by ear. The headers came with regular bolts but I don't know how good they are. The studs don't look great and that doesn't give me a good feeling. Its probably worth it to get the locking bolts purely on how annoying it is to access them.
I may need a hand positioning my xpipe back in place when going back together. I think it'll be a ball breaker doing it on the ground alone.
 

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SleeperStang
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i have some time off during the week if that works? maybe monday night, or friday morning? The bolts that came with mine i used a little locktight and they have held for the last year. I have heard the locking ones are a PITA if you are doing it in car. Not sure i have no first hand with them. I will be using them on mine this winter when she gets torn down again. I really dont want to have to keep checking them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Installed the driver side header today. Once the engine mount was removed and the steering shaft was out of the way. There was plenty of room to access all of the nuts and to remove the header. I used a 3/8 impact gun to remove the EGR stepped adapter and transfer it from the manifold to the header. I also found it much easier to start the EGR pipe first with the header hanging. Once the threads started it was easy to position the header in place. I reused all of the factory exhaust studs as they were in good shape and seem to work well for others.

I do have a question for those who have installed FRPP headers in the past. I bought my headers second hand and the only hardware supplied was header bolts for the flange to head connection. Was there bolt/studs included for the mid pipe/collector connections when new? If not what type of fasteners have you had success with?


View with the engine mount removed



Inside shots of the manifold runners





Inside shot of the FRPP runners





Finally a shot of the driver side header installed



I'm not really looking forward to the passenger side as it looks like a b*tch to do. There isn't much room to move around over there even with the starter removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I felt like torturing myself tonight so I decided to installed the passenger side header. In reality it was nowhere near as bad as I initially thought it would be. I was able to use a 1/4" air ratchet on most of the visible nuts and a very nifty 1/4" ratchet I have to access the others. The ratchet is from "Blackhawk", They were a MAC tools spin off company and I'm not really sure if they are still around. I know I have seen the design elsewhere but cant think of the other companies producing it. The ratchet has a fine tooth engagement which is great for tight spaces. But the neat part about it is that you are able to control the ratchet action by turning the handle either way. So even if there is no throw to move the ratchet side to side, you can still remove/install fasteners. It worked like a charm on the three difficult to access upper studs.


View of the manifold minus the engine mount


Side by side comparisons of the stock manifold and the FRPP header.




Finally the finished result.


I just need to install the starter and mid pipe after I gather the correct hardware to bolt everything up. Then its on to the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OUTSTANDING! finally caught a build thread, at i's inception! Can't wait to see this unfold....hopefully it'll keep me motivated enough to stay busy on mine,,, :0
Thanks!! I appreciate the kind words. I am going to try to work it some more today. I got the mid pipe installed over the week but didn't update the post yet. Oddly enough the car is quieter with the headers...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now that the headers are finished it's time to move to the suspension. I started with the fronts as they will be the easiest because I already have coil overs installed. It's a very basic install that consists of R&R of 3 Nuts per side. My MM c/o will be for sale shortly.

Out with the old.


In with the new


The Strange shocks needed no modifications to work with coil overs like they used to.


I used a medium adjustable wrench to "adjust" the frame rail lip inside of the strut tower for clearance. My old setup made slight contact on the driver side but as of right now this set up has room. MM sells a tool to do the same thing but this method seemed to work just fine.

On to the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
A few more things,

I added a Steeda clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. The install is very easy for both. I pretty much removed the cotter pins from the stock clutch quadrant and slid them off. I left the clutch cable connected to the stock quadrant rather than unhook it from the clutch fork. There was no resistance or damage done in my case, but this method may not work for everyone. The springs came off with the stock peice with no issue, the install was just as easy.




Stock quadrant


Stock quadrant removed


Steeds items installed


I also picked up a Raptor shift light, there are plenty of write ups on this site as well as all over the web. So I wouldn't add any thing of value to rewrite it. I removed the radio surround and mounted the light in the vent with some 3M velcro.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
That shift light is awesome. Is it easy to set when it comes on?
Thank you and yes. There are 2 dials on the body that you use a small screwdriver to set the desired shift point.

---------- Post added at 01:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:32 AM ----------

good looking build you have i have a raptor shift light as well in the same spot, blinds the **** out of me at night time lol

Thank you sir! Yeah its pretty bright, how do you like the blue?
 
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