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Discussion Starter #1
I found a fuel injected fox around my town the other day. Its got 79k miles on the meter but that could have been turned over. The guy that knew all the info about it was not at the stealership but the guy I talked to knew it had a big cam in it. He wasn't lying. The thing sounded great. It also had 275's on the back and they weren't bulging so I guess some 10.5" wheels. Has a cobra intake on it and a cold air as well. Idk if it was the stock bore and stroke or not. They are trying to sell it for 4900 starting out.

I'm thinking if I can get enough money from my car, I can run some boost to this.



*For the caring impaired*

Upsides:
Big cam, 4.10's, wide wheels, cobra intake

Downsides are the hood is an ugly Cobra R hood New Edge style. The front tires are also too big or its too low and they rub. There isn't any A/C either.

My dilemma is I don't really know much about fuel injected foxes. Are they that much more reliable than a Carb'ed ones? I'm not going to street it but maybe for a half a week at a time, but should it be safe to drive it to the track or on trips like Myrtle Beach? I don't have anything to tow with. Do they require tunes like my car I have now? Is it worth the money?
 

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I have carbed and injected stangs and I love both, If it's already injected leave it that way. Very reliable carbed or injected. For the best performance you will want a tune.As far as price if its a solid car (a coupe also)it is worth the asking price. Around here you cant touch a good coupe for that money.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
When you say tune do they make handhelds for them or do they have to be dyno'ed?

I'd rather have a carb tbh but like I said I kind of want the reliability of the Fuel Injected on cold mornings and such. My dad and I have been going to mustang week at myrtle beach too and I don't have to have to miss out on that since I can't tow.

Are they OBD-l?
 

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i'd look over the body real well.. underside of the doors, trunk lid for rust and also look at the torque boxes really well (where the upper and lower control arms meet the frame) because if the car has been beat on with sticky tires this area tends to crack and break which ends up in a very costly welding job or in some cases people just scrap the car because of them being so bad.

I'd look for rubber all around the inner rear fender wells and use it as a bargining tool as well.

Also "big cam" with stock heads is gay and will yield questionable results so take close look at what heads are on the car. Take it for a long test drive and make sure it shifts good with some rpm behind it and make sure it doesn't over heat or run every hot. Check for any oil leakage by the rear main seal and valve covers as well.

Use all this as a bargining tool and the fact that it's a race modified car and you might not be able to pass inspection and you should knock off some serious cash. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I know it will pass inspection lol I have friends.

Thanks for the serious advice. Helps a lot.

Basically what I need to know is do I need to retune it after: changing the heads, (should they have) after swapping the cam, and do they have hand held tuners. I can't find any online.

Sorry about sounding dumb. My dad and his friends own nothing but carbed ones so no one knows about the Fuel injection stuff.
 

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I know it will pass inspection lol I have friends
no that's not the point.. I ment make it out that you don't have connections for a sticker and that you'll have to put money into it to get it through a legit smog station.

Basically what I need to know is do I need to retune it after: changing the heads, (should they have) after swapping the cam, and do they have hand held tuners. I can't find any online
After a heads/cam change you should get a retune it'll help get the most out of your modifications and in most cases depending on how good the tuner is may enhance your idle and driveability as well but for the most part the stock computer can adapt to mods to a certain point. Any forced induction will require a retune no doubt though.

As far as hand held programmers are concerned no. They are not like the newer mustangs where you can purchase a used $200 misc programmer and go at it. The only programmer like that is a piggy back system that plugs in between the computer and the wiring harness that plugs into the computer and gives you a ps3 type controller with an lcd screen to change whatever you desire. It's made by anderson motor sports and is called a "PMS"

I have one in my turbo car and love it but they are expensive. I got mine hardly used with map sensor for $650 off of the classifieds at corral.net but for what you'll have "heads/cam/exhaust" you won't need it and can simply pay for a dyno tune/custom chip and be done with it.
 

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if its at a dealer offer them 3000 for it, and if they say no walk out leave them your number and tell them to call you when they are ready to sell it......if you dont hear from them in a couple of days go back and offer, 3500 and play their games

Dealers dont want to hang on to these type of cars they are high risk for them, they get them in on trade and flip them for whatever they can get, they gave nothing for that car I am sure, guy probably bought a new car and they gave him like 5 grand on paper for the stang......you can usually get them cheap like this
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
There aren't any smog laws where I live. It'll be okay on the road thats for sure. The guy before me was supposed to drive it on the road for quite a while. We found out where he works and are going to go ask him some questions today.

The only reason I wouldn't buy this car is the same reason I would. I want the reliability of the Fuel Injection but don't want to have to go through with the tuning bs. Especially since there aren't any hand helds. The closest performance shop is 3 hours away. But if you think its safe to run it with a cam, heads,air intake, and a cobra intake on a stock tune I might go with it.

My other option is buying a carbed one. I just wonder how it will do me driving to the track and 6 hours to Myrtle Beach...

For the heck of it, what 1/8th mile times would you all guess for this on some M/T's. Its a 5 speed btw.
 

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meh carbed on a 6 hr drive FTL.... Unless you like smelling like gas
They are telling you the stuff about it may not pass just to feed to the dealership to get the price down...you know it will pass but they dont....I am telling you dealers are scared of cars like this and want to dump them as fast as possible...I bought a 92 LX 5.0 in 94 for like 4000 dollars from a dealer and it had gt40heads, b cam, cobra intakes, and some other stuff, it ran great, but because of all the mods they just wanted to dump it so they werent liable for anything....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ah. I'm an idiot.

I'll bitch about the flowmaster dumps and the tires rubbing. I'll probably do what you said and try to get the car as close to 4k or under if they are stupid as I can. I might have to sell my car first though but if I miss this car I'm sure I can find a different easily.
 

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I am thinking you can pick it up for about 3000 to 3500 at a dealer, especially if they told you 4900, if they were trying to bring 4 for that car they would have said 5995 on the price, they are just going to go off the book price, not what they are worth to people who know them
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea. I'm still a little bleh about running a stock tune on all that stuff. Who knows maybe its tuned. I'll know in a bit.
 

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dude your stressing way to much about the tune. A mild mass air fox rarely needs a tune. It's best for optimal peformance but for now you tune it with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator,timing light, and a good set of wires and plugs gapped correctly. There's ton's of 11 sec fox's that are running plane a9l stock computer tune. Efi fox's are the ****. I had an 84 that i converted to efi and it picked up like 3-4 mpg and my car trapped 2 mph higher my first pass at the track than it ever did carb'd.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hm. Sweet. Thats why I was asking. I guess I'm still thinking in terms of newer cars and all. Good to hear I can not spend as much money as I though.

Now I just have to wait for it to quit raining and go try it out. Hopefully before Calc 3 tutoring :(
 

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Most of what is above is correct, the dealership will keep it for a few weeks and when they get tired of it take it to an auction and sell it for like 2 grand. Stay on them.
 

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dude your stressing way to much about the tune. A mild mass air fox rarely needs a tune. It's best for optimal peformance but for now you tune it with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator,timing light, and a good set of wires and plugs gapped correctly. There's ton's of 11 sec fox's that are running plane a9l stock computer tune. Efi fox's are the ****. I had an 84 that i converted to efi and it picked up like 3-4 mpg and my car trapped 2 mph higher my first pass at the track than it ever did carb'd.
+1
They are mass air and the computer can compensate for a lot to a limit. Like Ryan and gotn20 said, unless it has forced induction and/or greater than 30# fuel injectors, you will be fine with the stock computer and stock tune. Yes, a custom tune will extract some additional power here and there but you'll be fine either way, assuming the car actually runs right..

Additional things I would check other than those already mentioned. The condition of the coolant for cloudy or foaming and the oil pressure/condition if possible. I've seen people dump something close to gear oil in to mask a bad bearing and knocks. I'd at least smell the oil. Maybe I'm being paranoid I don't understand how a partially modified notch fox would end up at a road side dealer, that is odd. It could lead to you getting a really good deal or getting partially screwed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well we talked with the original owner and I would've been getting screwed. Said the car "didn't run right, got at most 12 mpg, clutch was close to being toast, and ran 8.50's" I dont like the ran 8.50's too much. I don't like hearing it ran anything at all. Oh and it had 179k miles on the original motor. I hate how the meters on on those foxes with 5 place holders instead of 6.
 

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Well we talked with the original owner and I would've been getting screwed. Said the car "didn't run right, got at most 12 mpg, clutch was close to being toast, and ran 8.50's" I dont like the ran 8.50's too much. I don't like hearing it ran anything at all. Oh and it had 179k miles on the original motor. I hate how the meters on on those foxes with 5 place holders instead of 6.
That is about the typical condition for a notch of that price. Unless you get extremely lucky. In reality, a tuneup, maybe a vacuum leak, and a new clutch could be all it needs. It could also have little to no compression and no oil pressure as well ;)
Remember, foxes are 20-30 years old, steering a little sloppy, slipping clutch, 150k+ miles, possibly hard to get into 2nd gear, the drivers seat lean, maybe a new water pump etc are the norm. When I look at foxes, I put more importance on the interior and the body/paint. You can get a 302/T5 and chassis parts whole or in parts dirt cheap everywhere and anywhere and they are easy to replace. Paint, body, and frame work are expensive and interior parts are hard to find and expensive.
 

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NO way I would rather have that car from the dealer for 3-3500 go back and offer 3 grand, those other 2 are too much $$$ and look like ****....the black one looks like it got painted with a rattle can....
 
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