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Discussion Starter #1
Do you think it people would like to rent the Ford Pinion depth tool that works on the 8.8s and the 7.5 using OEM gears or the Ford Racing gears. How it would work Deposit and rental fee. Then I would send it out via UPS. Once I receive it back I will refund the deposit.
 

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Head Unicorn
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Just my opinion, I've set up countless gear sets and I've never used those tools. I wouldn't know where to begin. Some may pay money to rent them but I can't see it being worth the headache.
 

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if your using frpp gears, a straight edge(laid across the saddles) and a dial indicator works. just measure orig. then set up accordingly. all the tool does is measure from axle centerline to pinion face, you can do this without special tools
And then it still might not even be right...lol
 

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Ive got one of those tools and everytime i used it customers complained of gear whine. Everytime after that when i just reused the originally installed shim with the pinion, it was all good. This was with FRPP gears though. Others were a little more labor intensive
 

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No its just as easy to use a dial indicator which you can get a harbor freight for a fraction of the cost....... if your gears have never been changed chances are the shims that you have currently installed will work as they do most of the time..... if not it is the best place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Damn I am sorry I haven't done hundreds of gears I am in the process of doing mine. I bought and empty housing so I had nothing to start with. So I guess I will just sell it when I am done!
 

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I have never used one, but if you are following instructions that use one I as well as others showed you how to do it without one. start with the original shim if you have it( or the mentioned .030) set backlash and go from there. should get you close if not correct. backlash is important as well as bearing preload..goodluck not as hard as some make it out
 

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Here's a tip that I discovered along the way of the half dozen or so swaps that I've done so far.

The problem with guessing and checking with the shim under the pinion bearing, is that if it's wrong, you'll almost always destroy or damage the bearing pulling it back off to change the shim. So, buy an extra pinion bearing, and then grind out a tiny bit of the inner bore so that it will slide on the pinion without having to press it on. A little bit of drag is ok, but just make sure it will come back off pretty easily.

Now, you can use this bearing when setting everything up, and if the shim needs to be changed, it's easy to do so. Once you get it all dialed in correctly, press the real bearing on, assemble everything, and you're good to go.

I'm a BIG believer in the gear pattern. If it's not right, even if everything else seems to be within spec, they're probably going to make noise. So I always set everything up to get the pattern right, and then I check the backlash last. If it's within tolerance (I shoot for the top end), then it's ready to roll. If it's out of tolerance, readjust to get it in, and then change whatever needs to be changed to get the pattern back. Rinse, repeat, etc.

I also believe that a lack of proper carrier bearing preload is a bigger cause of gear noise than the gears themselves. You should have to drive in the last shim on the carrier with a fair amount of force; if you can pretty easily roll the carrier out once all the shims are in, then you probably don't have enough preload. It should be nice and snug in there.

I've done a good half dozen gear swaps now, and haven't had any problems or noise out of any of them so far.
 
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