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The quadrant is the piece that the cable rides on when it enters the cabin under the dash. The stock one is plastic, and under heavy load (modded vehicle) it can bend/warp, etc. Steeda & MM sell clutch kits that include a new cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster. These help to find the sweet spot in a new clutch, and the aftermarket quadrants are made of aluminum, so they are much stronger. Some have had issues with the Steeda adjustable cable snapping & binding, so far I have had no issues. To use an aftermarket quadrant normally you'll need the firewall adjuster and/or adjustable cable, so it makes sense to buy the kit.
 
So everything I'm reading here is.. if you have a problem, might as well put in all new better stuff.. clutch, cable, flywheel, TOB (ford) etc..
 
Well that depends... everything is relative, especially car modifications. If you can afford it is the first key to all this. If yes, then of course replace all at once with quality components.

If you're clutch needs replacing, then a new tob, pilot bearing, rear main seal, clutch fork, and cable are all suggested. This is because if the clutch itself has gone, then more than likely everything else is worn as well. However, if only the tob is gone, the clutch itself may have life still. In this case replacing only the tob will suffice, as getting to the pilot bearing & rear seal & flywheel all require the clutch being removed. Always have the flywheel resurfaced if not replaced when installing a new clutch.

People say to do it all at once because its just easier that way, plain and simple. A clutch isn't a small job, so if you're going that far into things you might as well replace it all to not have to go back in sooner rather than later. Likewise if you're having someone else install it, its cheaper to have them go at it one time rather than multiple.

Finally, in my opinion, since I enjoy modding my car and it has relatively high miles, I have replaced most everything that goes out with aftermarket performance parts rather than stock. This kills 2 birds with one stone. If you'd like performance parts and say your clutch goes out, spend the lil extra dough since you have to spend something anyway and go performance. If you're staying a run of the mil street car with a little giddy up, then it might not always be necessary. This is why I say its relative, because it depends on your goals for the car, most everyone differs in the total package that they desire.
 
It's not worth replacing the tob due to the amount of work it takes. By that I mean if you're going to replace it, you might as well replace the clutch while you're at it. Also, tobs go bad a lot, but I would replace the clutch along with the tob if it were me.
 
Not if the clutch has life I wouldn't. You don't even have to remove the bell housing to replace the Tob. I need a new one and my clutch is all of like 5 months old. PoS bearings that aftermarket kits come with. The clutch itself has tens of thousands of miles left on it. Sooo... only if needed.
 
Just now saw you tried to negate me!! The fork and thus the TOB are removable/replaceable through the bell housing inspection cover. With the trans off and the cover off, you can clip the TOB to the fork, and slide it up through the inspection opening, just takes the right angle to get it to click onto the knob on the inside of the bell housing.
 
to get to the TOB you have to remove the tranny...just how do you take the TOB off the tranny input shaft without taking the bellhousing off? good luck with that.
 
Done it. Pulled the trans before the bellhousing... TOB falls off basically.... this is a 3.8 btw, not sure if its that big a difference...
 
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