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Discussion Starter #1
Current suspension set up on my 95-

Eibach springs(lowered a little), front controls arms from 03 cobra, steeda ball joints, tockiko shocks and struts (non adjustable).

I may take this car to the track 2 times a year. I want something that will make it take some good corners and give me some added grip for launches. So im guessing i need to get rear c-arms, front and rear sway bars...right? anything else?

WHat is the difference in a panhard bar and a sway bar?

I am no suspension expert, so will adjutable rear c-arms really do me any good? Any good brands (not the most expensive), or some to stay away from.

thanks for the help peeps.
 

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Easy answer is talk to Maximum Motorsports, and buy the most expensive grip box of theirs you can afford. They start at about $1k, and come with matched components.


Long answer:

There are 3 main problems with the fox chassis suspension.
1) Chassis flex
2) The rear suspension geometry is crap
3) The front suspension does not allow for a proper alignment (and the geometry leaves much to be desired).

Now, before tackling any of the above, you should make sure that all maintenance is dealt with, and anything needing to be fixed gets done first. Mods should always come after repairs (unless you can do both at the same time :D ).

Here's my list of what you should do. It's not complete, it's mostly in order (though you can argue some things should be done at different points), and it assumes that you're NOT going coil-over.

1) Good Tires. Tires are the only thing on your car that is in contact with the road. They are what is going to most directly affect grip, braking, and handling. The best suspension in the world is worthless on crap tires.

2) Upgrade front pads - Brakes are one of the more overlooked components, but a good braking system is paramount. You can hold speed longer, with more confidence, if you know you can stop RIGHT NOW. Front pads do most of the work of your braking system, so the biggest gains with the least amount of money invested can be found there. My suggested pads are Porterfields; Hawks and EBCs are good, too.

3)Shocks/struts. My preference is for non-adjustables. Shocks should be matched to the spring, not compensating for it. My suggestion is Bilsteins. You could argue to do springs at this point, but I would say only if you're dropping 1" or less.

4)Full-length, weld-in Subframe Connectors. Your suspension is only as good as the platform it's attached to. SFCs give you a solid platform to work from.

5)CC Plates. Alignment makes all the difference, and you can't get a true performance alignment without them. My suggested settings are 0 toe, 4+ degrees positive caster, and start with ~0.5 degrees negative camber. Proper Camber is much more dependent on your driving style than any of the other settings, watch your tire wear to determine if you need more or less. From any point here on, you could do springs of whatever drop makes you happy.

6) Lower Control Arms. Factory are stamped steel with crappy rubber bushings. Get a set with a spherical bushing on one end and poly on the other for street driving. I like Maximum Motorsport's LCAs. With good LCAs installed, you can remove the quad shocks for a decrease in suspension bind and an increase in ride quality.

8)Panhard Bar. A panhard bar is a control arm that laterally locates the rear axle. The stock 4-link allows the rear axle to move ~2" left-right, which is the floaty sensation that you get whenever you put one of these cars through a series of quick back-and-forth maneuvers. Once the panhard bar is installed, you can go to the "poor man's 3-link" by removing the driver's side UCA. This will free up more bind from the rear suspension.

9) Torque Arm - controls axle wrap. Now you can totally remove the UCAs.

Sorry... gotta stop here for a bit... will come back and edit more, but my brain's done dumping for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
will adjustable components really do me any good? not sure how good i would be at adjusting it....im more of a cole trickle if you know what i mean when it comes to suspension.
 

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will adjustable components really do me any good? not sure how good i would be at adjusting it....im more of a cole trickle if you know what i mean when it comes to suspension.
I suggest against adjustables unless you know exactly what adjusting it gets you and how to adjust it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
another thing...how long before eibach springs wear out?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ive always thought sway bars were key to handling....the the MM street and strip box ($1,600) does not include them....does a panhard bar supplement for a sway bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i found a complete rear suspension and axle out of an 2003 cobra...will that fit a 95?
 

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ive always thought sway bars were key to handling....the the MM street and strip box ($1,600) does not include them....does a panhard bar supplement for a sway bar?
Swaybars make up for inadequecies of the suspension. They are totally different than a panhard bar.

Swaybars are a spring that resists having the wheels it's attached to at different ride heights. This has the effect of counteracting bodyroll for cars that don't have adequately stiff springs to do so (usually do to a compromise for ride quality).

You also use swaybars to tune the relative stiffness of the front and rear suspension. This allows you to change oversteer/understeer dynamics. Again, they're a tuning tool once everything else is in place.

A panhard bar is a control arm in the rear suspension that laterally locates the axle relative to the chassis.

i found a complete rear suspension and axle out of an 2003 cobra...will that fit a 95?
I've seen Cobra IRS put in an SN95 before. I believe it's a bolt-in affair aside from drilling 2 holes. The problem is that while the IRS is better than the 4-link, it's not as good as a torque arm.
 

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Hello
I noticed that you are interest in increasing your traction performance! Well we are a new sponsor to this site. But we have been in business for going on 8 years. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer as far as rear upper and lower control arms. When you purchase a UMI Performance product it is made right here at our own facility in the USA.

1979-2004 Ford Mustang : UMI Performance, Inc.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask I will be more than glad to help!
Give us a shot I am positive you won't be disappointed in the quality or performance.
Thanks Again
Brad :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
is anyone here using UMI products? I like the price.
 

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Looking at UMI's stuff, I like the looks of their LCAs (I would get the one with the spherical joint on one side and poly on the other for a street car), and, for those people that insist on retaining the UCAs, I do like look of their "Ultimate" UCAs with the adjustability and spherical joint.
 

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My suggested settings are 0 toe
Why 0? When i bought my cc plates, i asked around advices how to set toe, everybody i asked said to have a little toe in, so i ended up with 1/16", found that on FRPP cc plates instructions.

The stock 4-link allows the rear axle to move ~2" left-right
:eek: Whoah, that much!?

ive always thought sway bars were key to handling....the the MM street and strip box ($1,600) does not include them...?
The street/strip box is aimed more on drag racing. For better cornering look at sport or R/T box. But those doesn't include sway bars either, actually none of the MM boxes have them. I guess not needed with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think I like the UMI adjustable RCA package...i think i may get those, and some full length subframes and take it from there.

UMI Sales- how bout you cut me a great deal on the RCA's, and i will post picks of the swap on here and provide some feedback for this HUGE community of potiential buyers?:)
 

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Why 0? When i bought my cc plates, i asked around advices how to set toe, everybody i asked said to have a little toe in, so i ended up with 1/16", found that on FRPP cc plates instructions.
0 toe gives better turn-in/response, slight toe-in gives better stability at speed and some return-to-center. However, if you have sufficient caster, you've already got high-speed stability and return-to-center.


:eek: Whoah, that much!?
Yeah... it's fixable, though. I believe that replacing the UCAs with ones with spherical joints helps significantly over the stock rubber bushed control arms, but I don't think it solves it completely. The problems is that almost all of the negative handling characteristics in the rear suspension are due to the geometry of the stock UCAs. Most people are aware of the axle float, and that's bad enough. Under hard acceleration, people see the rear end squat, and think, "weight transfer"; that's not entirely correct. When accelerating, the axle wrap allows it to rotate "backwards", and the axle pulls against the UCAs. This pull against the UCAs *lifts* the rear axle and if you're coming off the line hard enough, will cause wheel hop. The reverse happens under hard braking - the axle wraps "forward", pushing the body up and giving the infamous nose dive.

Either way, not cool. Going to a setup that gets rid of the UCAs entirely is a good thing when it comes to handling.

The street/strip box is aimed more on drag racing. For better cornering look at sport or R/T box. But those doesn't include sway bars either, actually none of the MM boxes have them. I guess not needed with them.
The Maximum Grip box comes with an adjustable swaybar. The others are designed to work with your stock units. The other boxes do come with new endlinks and poly swaybar bushings, which still has the effect of increasing your effective swaybar rate.
 

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0 toe gives better turn-in/response, slight toe-in gives better stability at speed and some return-to-center. However, if you have sufficient caster, you've already got high-speed stability and return-to-center.
Then it was probably because mine is 89 with less caster in strut mounts than newer models. I took as much caster as i could get from the BBK cc plates.

Thanks again
 

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You've got a lot of good information here, so I'll just throw in my .02 since I track my car, often.

What ReverendDexter" said, is the best solution, period. No offense to anyone elses products. Just contact Max. Motorsports and let them guide you.

I had a mixed bag of components on my car, and I am now swapping things out for MM parts.
 
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