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Im planning on going to the junk yard to find some gt40pheads and intake. first of all what parts do i need for the swap? i know i need the heads, upper and lower intake, bolts, TB, EGR as well correct?, do I pick up gaskets for gt40p heads? what other little parts will i need to do to make the swap work? this is all im plannin on doing for now. I got a set of cheap summit long tubes that i have on now. will they work with the new heads? I plan on just doing the heads, intake. 3 cut angle on valves, i also want to port the heads, new cam.( what would be the best cam for this setup)? Should I get new springs and rockers? or any other little parts for the heads? I also want to shave the heads for more compression. how much can i shave them down on the stock motor? What size MAF will I need along with injectors? I know ill have to get the computer redone correct? and last how much can i advance the timing on this setup? Id appreciate the input. thanks alot! Does anybody have the heads, intake, and TB theyd like to sell BTW? I live in Florida so u can give me a rough cost for shipping. Its a 93 5.0 conv BTW.
 

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no E7 headers won't work with P heads..you'll have to get the headers made for the P heads. you can get them from summit for 160.
 

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almost all headers will bolt up to the GT40P's, the problem with most is that the tubes do not come straight out far enough to clear the angle of the spark plugs. Mac and Ford Motorsport both make a GT40P spacific header. Most all long tubes come out far enough to clear and other short tube headers will work but there is clearance issues on two of the cylinders.

If you go with a diffrent cam, make sure you change springs, The Trick Flow kit comes with everything for around $130.

Your stock MAF and injectors will work fine. Do a search on this site, there are tons of posts that will answer all your questions.

I have a set of GT40P's that are ported, have the Trick Flow spring kit and Ford Motorsport roller rockers.. PM me and let me know what your looking to spend..
 

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So does the computer need to be re-set using the GT40p heads? What about head bolts, will the stock E7 head bolts work or will I need new head bolts and if so which ones? I thought going from an E7 to a GT40p was more or less a direct swap that'd bolt right up but now ya'll are making me think it's going to be a lot more trouble.
 

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It is a direct swap. Stock headbolts will work, but there old and tired. You might as well replace it while its torn apart. Just buy 302 gastets, nothing more specific. Nothing needs to be done to the computer. Stock injectors and fuel pump are more then enough to support the power. You could get a larger maf. I ran a 76mm on my gt40p heads, fcam, and cobra intake, and it ran just fine.
 

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It is a direct swap. Stock headbolts will work, but there old and tired. You might as well replace it while its torn apart. Just buy 302 gastets, nothing more specific. Nothing needs to be done to the computer. Stock injectors and fuel pump are more then enough to support the power. You could get a larger maf. I ran a 76mm on my gt40p heads, fcam, and cobra intake, and it ran just fine.
Thank you for a straight answer to my question. I read that the head bolts are Toqure to yeild to I"ll get a new set just to be on the safe side. I plan on running a 65mmTB, 73mm MAF, 19# injectors and get a EGR delete plate so I'll have someplace to mount my throttle cable. A lot of what I'm going to do will be clean up. I'll replace the rubber fuel line with some good high pressure stuff from work so it'll be fresh. Clean up the injectors and stock rails. Bolt on the re-ferbed heads and Explorer intake and hopfully it'll all work. :rolleyes:
 

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definitly buy valve springs even if you stick will your stock cam. Look over the seals make sure there in good shape, I bought new ones for my gt40 heads just to be on the safe side. I believe the gt40p heads have a higher compression ratio than stock H.O heads. With that said I probably wouldnt deck those heads more than .30. Also be prepared to pay a pretty penny if your gona have those heads ported, inless you attempt it your self
 

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Don't think I need em' ported, probably not get em' decked if the CR is higher already as long as they're not warped. I'll get valve stem seals form work, do you really think they'll need new springs, they off of a '98 Explorer. Springs aren't all that cheap,LOL. What about my push rods and rockers, can they be used on the new heads?
 

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i dont know theres probablu people who get away with running the stock springs if they run the stock cam. Other than that no way in hell, you end up will valve float. Remeber most of these heads are coming off 100,000+ motors, valve train stuff is probably gona be worn out, and if you put the added strain of higher horsepower and higer revs, there eventually gona fail. Springs arent that much cash. I'm pretty sure trick flow makes a spring kit for like 140 bucks, and the springs are good to 520 lift I think. Pushrods thats completely up to you, hardend ones are nice insurance for cheap. As far as rockers, thats where the cash is spent ( Im still saven up for mine lol) Theres people who run the stock rockers, but a full roller rocker is so much more effiecent than the stocker.
 

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Would this kit work with the GT40p heads.
VALVE SPRING UPGRADE KIT, SMALL BLOCK FORD WITH OE STYLE CAST IRON HEADS MUSTANG
If it will it'll get me everything I'll need to get em' referbed in one package.

I also looked up a set of pushrods and rockers:
ROLLER TIP ROCKER ARMS, CHROMOLY STEEL, 1.6 RATIO, 3/8 STUD MOUNT, SMALL BLOCK FORD, SET OF 16 MISCFORD
85-95 PUSHRODS, 5.0L HARDENED, 5/16" X 6.25" - SET OF 16 MISCFORD
Will these work with the GT40p heads? If so they're cheap enough to add to the list(which just keeps growing longer,LOL)
 

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that valve spring kit is the one im talken bout, the rockers wont work, inless you get the heads converted to stud mount. Iron 40 heads are pedestal mounted, you cant find a decent rocker for these heads under $300 in a 1.6 ratio (atleast I cant) The pushrods you gota wait on till you know if your gona get the heads decked or not i think, I my self am still trying to figure out if .20 decked heads need different length pushrods or not. All i know for sure it that a stock roller pushrod measures 6.272in length and .312in diameter
 

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So I'll need pedestal mounted and not stud mount rockers and the pushrods are wrong. I really hope the heads don't need to be decked, so that means I'll need 6.272" pushrods then. Thanks, I'll go look em' up right now.

Ok, I found these for rockers:
ROLLER ROCKER ARMS, 1.6 RATIO PEDESTAL MOUNT, SMALL BLOCK FORD, SET OF 16 MISCFORD
But I'm still only coming up with these for pushrods:
85-95 PUSHRODS, 5.0L HARDENED, 5/16" X 6.25" - SET OF 16 MISCFORD
I guess if I did get the heads decked .020" they'd be right on the money.
 

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Google Proform Roller Rockers before you make up your mind, and read the feedback on them.. There are alot of mixed reviews out there about them.. You don't want to buy **** parts on the valvetrain...
 

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actaully those are the ones that I'm saving up for, I was going to go with scorpion rockers cause there middle of the road in price but I'm starting to find out that some people are having problems with them.
 

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So stock pushrods and rockers will be ok. That'll save me over $400 if I can get away with it. I don't plan on pushing this engine hard all the time but I do plan on getting on it every once in a while. Just don't want anything coming apart on me. With a pedestal rocker you just crank em' down to toqure specs, right? There's no way you have to set em' up special, just tighten em' all the way down? I remember my 289 in my '66 had the stud mounted rockers and I actually had to start the engine up and adjust each rocker until it stopped clackin' then cranked it an extra 3/4 turn to get it where it needed to be, what a PITA.
 
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