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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently installed a new clutch fork, clutch fork pivot stud and clutch.. The TOB has roughly 750 miles on it and it's making the most ridiculous noises I have ever heard. I broke it in properly and it's the one that came with my king cobra clutch (using different clutch now but same TOB).

Is it possible for one to be bad from the factory? It's driving me crazy!
 

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MM's V6 Hater
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lube the shaft when you installed the clutch?

possible you have a bad tob from factory. Is it a ford tob in the king cobra clutch? with my cheapy o riley clutch, i used the one that came in the kit and it made noise after 100miles.
 

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every one and their brother swear by the Ford Racing TOB. Yes it is probably a bad one.
 

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Might be a stupid question, but you have to lube the shaft?
 

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^^ Dude said "lube the shaft". :)

J/K I was told long ago not to lube the tob to input shaft sleeve area. Actually most bearings come with some grease on the inside diameter. I clean all that stuff off before installing. Theory is that it attracts all the dust and debris. No Lube :) has worked well for me over the years.
 

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11.5:1 or GTFO
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ALWAYS use the FRPP TOB. Always.
 

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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #7
I did use the one that came with my king cobra clutch which should technically be a Ford piece because the manufacturer of the king cobra clutch is the same company that makes oem Ford parts. I did lube the shaft. I have a feeling that I'm going to be dropping the transmission one of these weekends to replace it -__-
 

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11.5:1 or GTFO
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Buy a FRPP one this time.
 

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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone know if a cobra tob and a gt tob have the same part number?
 

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Head Unicorn
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Okay. Several fallacies I see in this thread. I don't know who you bought the "King Cobra" clutch from... but Ford Racing sold/marketed the King Cobra clutch. It was a 10.5" clutch... you have an 04 Mustang which uses a 11" clutch. Of course you can use the 10.5" on an 11" flywheel so it's possible. However, Ford Racing discontinued the King Cobra many years ago. You don't have a King Cobra. You bought a clutch someone attached the name King Cobra to. My opinion based on these facts is that the TOB is probably some POS made my an 11 year old Cambodian girl making 12 cents a week in a sweat shop.

As far as the lubing, or greasing the bearing support that the TOB rides on..... everyone has their own opinions. My opinion is, and always will be, that the support should be greased just as the inside of the TOB should be greased. Will it attract dirt and dust? Sure it will. I'll deal with dirt and dust as opposed to dry metal TOB spinning at up to 6000 RPM on a dry metal sleeve(bearing support). Lubrication is your friend.
 

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As far as clutch;

2001-2004 Ford Mustang GT Mach 1 1999, 2001 Cobra 11" Clutch Kit - UPR Products

TOB is the same as FRPP, or Motorcraft.

Greasing the input shaft bearing retainer will cause problems in the future.
The TOB does not spin on the shaft, it simply slides back and forth.
Different clutch mfr may require the use of a firewall adapter to get the proper preload on the TOB. What are you using?
 

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Head Unicorn
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5,085 Posts
As far as clutch;

2001-2004 Ford Mustang GT Mach 1 1999, 2001 Cobra 11" Clutch Kit - UPR Products

TOB is the same as FRPP, or Motorcraft.

Greasing the input shaft bearing retainer will cause problems in the future.
The TOB does not spin on the shaft, it simply slides back and forth.
Different clutch mfr may require the use of a firewall adapter to get the proper preload on the TOB. What are you using?
You aren't the OP, so as to where you're gettin the info that this is the OP's clutch I don't know.... but I'll respond anyway.

Thanks for the link to the UPR clutch. Again, as I said, the King Cobra was offered/marketed by Ford Racing. This isn't it. The King Cobra was a 10.5" clutch, also stated previously. Read the clutch link you posted a little closer and you'll see that the kit is manufactured by Valeo (which the ad lists as the originial manufacture of the King Cobra clutch (which I agree with)). Valeo actually manufactures the majority of OEM and semi-performance clutch components that you buy regardless of what the part is branded (i.e Centerforce). You have either misunderstood that the OP spoke of a "King Cobra" (and the link is nothing of the sort) or you just happened to read the words "King Cobra" in the UPR listing and assumed it was the same. It's not. Again, the King Cobra was a 10.5" clutch; the link you provided is for a Valeo manufactured 11" clutch from UPR. Not the same clutch. Doesn't really matter though.

The TOB does spin, not at 6000 RPM... my fault for a poor explanation. The TOB rides on the pressure plate's fingers (which are spinning at engine speed, up to 6200 RPM) and will spin due to friction....... not at 6000 RPM though, I agree. Lubricating any moving parts will not cause harm, not lubricating moving parts will cause harm.

No clutch manufacturer will ever (nor has ever) claimed to need a "firewall adapter" to get the proper preload on the TOB. The TOB has no load, nor preload for that matter. I assume you mean a firewall adjuster, which is used to adjust engagement/disengagement points of the pedal (which does directly relate to TOB/Pressure Plate Finger clearance). The clutch manufacturer has nothing to do with this, they are all diaphragm style clutches. End user adjustment can be accomplished with the stock quadrant (self adjusting two piece plastic piece of ****), or any combination of fixed quadrant, firewall adjuster and cable. TOBs are not preloaded, they are set to the proper clearance. That clearance may be positive, neutral or negative.
 

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Wow are you defensive!
op stated he bought a king cobra clutch, trying to clarify which one he bought which would indicate the make of the TOB. These kits are available everywhere. As to the fact it is not a true "King Cobra" is semantics.It is an oem type clutch under the FRPP brand.
Ford specifies that the TOB must have a pre-load of 5lbs to ensure longevity. That means it rides on the fingers constantly spinning with engine rpm. After market mfrs will state in the install instructions that an adj cable or firewall adjuster must be used for proper TOB pre-load.
To the op, does the noise go away if you put some light pressure on the pedal?
 

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Head Unicorn
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Wow are you defensive!
op stated he bought a king cobra clutch, trying to clarify which one he bought which would indicate the make of the TOB. These kits are available everywhere. As to the fact it is not a true "King Cobra" is semantics.It is an oem type clutch under the FRPP brand.
Ford specifies that the TOB must have a pre-load of 5lbs to ensure longevity. That means it rides on the fingers constantly spinning with engine rpm. After market mfrs will state in the install instructions that an adj cable or firewall adjuster must be used for proper TOB pre-load.
To the op, does the noise go away if you put some light pressure on the pedal?
You're right, I am defensive. Rough day, and I'm an asshole by nature. My apologies. Clutch name doesn't necessarily indicate the make of TOB, and to clarify that Ford doesnt make TOBs. However Ford branded TOBs are built to Ford spec.

It's not semantics. The King Cobra was a 10.5 clutch. The listing you linked was a stock replacement clutch for a 3650, which is an 11" clutch. Not the same clutch. I agree Valeo made both. Everybody and their brother has tacked on the King Cobra name to their clutch and it aggravates me(my piss poor attitude). Your first post stated that the TOB didn't spin at all, now we agree it does spin (and you even claim engine RPM) which is all the more reason to apply a liberal amount of grease to the bearing support (which is why it's there.... to support the throw out bearing). You and I are on the same page with where the noise is coming from but I believe you have your product information incorrect.
 

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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #15
Yes I bought the one from upr, and no the noise doesn't really go away with slight pressure on the pedal. When I first turn the car on when it's cold the noise is ridiculously loud but after it's at operating temp and I've been driving it it won't make the noise at idle.
 

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Head Unicorn
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The reason he asked that question is that typically a failing TOB will silence with slight pedal pressure. Since it appears that's not the solution.... we need to move ahead. Where is the sound coming from? Trans? Bellhousing? Could it possibly be coming from a bearing going bad on the accessory drive?
 

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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #17
It's definitely coming from the clutch, tob area. You think the tob isn't pulling far enough away?
 

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so pushing the clutch pedal in and out does nothing noise wise ?
was the pilot bearing replaced at any time?
When my tob was going, it also seemed to get quieter as i drove, but pushing in the clutch pedal always lessened the extent, hot or cold.
maybe getting under the vehicle and looking at the tob, maybe squirting some lithium grease on to it can help pinpoint the source.
 

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Mr. Stangarang
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Discussion Starter #19
Maybe, I can try that tomorrow after work. And the pilot bearing was replaced.
 

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Head Unicorn
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It's definitely coming from the clutch, tob area. You think the tob isn't pulling far enough away?
Pulling farther away could aid the issue... which will also place pedal engagement/disengagement closer to the floor (which is unacceptable to me). Typically if you load the TOB with slight pressure (pedal pressure) the noise will vanish if the TOB is the culprit of the noise. Not saying that the TOB isn't the culprit, but it's not following the typical pattern.
 
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