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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got told today by dallas mustang if i just add a turbo to my stock block (42 injector and 255 lph fuel pump). I could get 400 rhp on like 10-12 psi. Has anyone heard this and who has a stock motor with turbo and how much are you or they are making.
 

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i had a turbo on a stock motor,, goes fast and its fun. but with anything else if you dont do supporting mods things start to break very easily.. you have to tune the car to run good at WOT and driveability or else it will suck.. i personaly got fed up with the turbo scene. and will be doing a 302 h/c/i carb setup with alittle bit of tht giggle juice which is always a good platform.. i have turbo parts if your intrested pm me for details... good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i had a turbo on a stock motor,, goes fast and its fun. but with anything else if you dont do supporting mods things start to break very easily.. you have to tune the car to run good at WOT and driveability or else it will suck.. i personaly got fed up with the turbo scene. and will be doing a 302 h/c/i carb setup with alittle bit of tht giggle juice which is always a good platform.. i have turbo parts if your intrested pm me for details... good luck
What do you have and how much and what kind of mod do i need to do. this is my first turbo car.
 

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stock motor/heads/internals tfs stage 1 cam, tfs street intake, 70mm tb, 85mm abaco meter, 42lb green tops, pms series 4 with map sensor, walbro 255 with a t62e turbo. 8lbs gave me 403rwhp/426lb on a conservative tune.. Not super duper safe but safe enough so that I can continue to daily drive it if I'd choose to.

has no exhaust except downpipe so it sounds like a buick gn with a cutout until your at wot
 

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stock motor/heads/internals tfs stage 1 cam, tfs street intake, 70mm tb, 75mm abaco meter, 42lb green tops, pms series 4 with map sensor, walbro 255 with a t62e turbo. 8lbs gave me 403rwhp/426lb on a conservative tune.. Not super duper safe but safe enough so that I can continue to daily drive it if I'd choose to.

has no exhaust except downpipe so it sounds like a buick gn with a cutout until your at wot
+1 on the sound, thats the best way to describe it. I went with a single dynomax bullet, and it sounds like a chevy lumina. I've actually overheard people talking about how my car sounds like ****?
 

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+1 on the sound, thats the best way to describe it. I went with a single dynomax bullet, and it sounds like a chevy lumina. I've actually overheard people talking about how my car sounds like ****?
haha i'd agree it sounds like **** but my syclone sounds the same way and because of that and the 17" pepboy tires it's won me allot of money on the street.
 

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The stock internals will take a lot of abuse in a 5.0 - the block is often the first thing to break if the motor is tuned correctly and not hitting detonation.
 

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stock motor (except 1.7 roller rockers, and a cartech upper/gt40 lower intake manifold), on 11psi made 407hp and 460 tq.
 

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This is exactly what iam in the making of doing, i plan on running a B&G stage 1 kit on my stock 5.0

u just need a lot of preparation parts to handle that boost, i plan on running 8 to 10 lbs of boost and my goal WHP is 400

things ur gonna need:
ignition
fuel
management
clutch/tranny
wideband
fel pro head gasket
subframe connectors!!!

some other stuff too, just cant remember off the top of my head
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have most of that on my mind and priced out but motor wise i dont need anything. I heard the block can take up to 450 whp.
 

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well 450 to 500 and u might crack the block, i posted up a thread about this like 1 month ago, a lot of people suggested i get ARP head studs to help out with the boost, and DEFF buy a very good FEL Pro head gasket, thicker and stronger. And then it really comes down to a great tune and just running safe levels of boost, see its not the engine im worried about blowing, its the drivetrain thats why i plan on calling up promotionpowertrain.com and getting a nice built tremac,ligthened flywheel, super king cobra clutch,aluminum driveshaft, and eventually built the rear end
 

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my car doesn't have anything ingition related except a blaster coil lol but I will eventually go with a digitial six but for now the 2 step in the pms is pretty decent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well 450 to 500 and u might crack the block, i posted up a thread about this like 1 month ago, a lot of people suggested i get ARP head studs to help out with the boost, and DEFF buy a very good FEL Pro head gasket, thicker and stronger. And then it really comes down to a great tune and just running safe levels of boost, see its not the engine im worried about blowing, its the drivetrain thats why i plan on calling up promotionpowertrain.com and getting a nice built tremac,ligthened flywheel, super king cobra clutch,aluminum driveshaft, and eventually built the rear end
what about getting the heads o-ringed
 

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I just found this thread, and I am currently doing the same thing, stock longblock with the B and G turbo kit. I have the heads off now to install the arp head studs and head gaskets. The shop that is going to tune my car said to just go with stronger valve springs on the stock heads. I was also going to get machine work done to the heads, but I just got an estimate of $500.00. I don't mean to jack this thread but if the heads aren't warped, would it be safe to just install the new valve springs and put the heads back on?
 

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You pretty much on the right trakc here. Just buy the proper valvesprings, but the rest of your plan is fine. Assuming you have supporting mods like a tb, injectors, maf, and a pump.... with a chip and dyno tune you will be good to go.
 
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