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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just joined the MM comunity need some advise on UDP. I recently viewed comments making claims BBK SFI approved UDP are to lite and will cause damage to our V8's? I need clarification on this because all I read and see is use Steeda UDP's. I was wondering is any one running UPR UDP's or Summit UDP's. They along with BBK look great and woul like to add Metco idler pulley 4pc set to dress up the engine bay and add some HP.

2006 GT JLT CAI SCT3 Brenspeed 93tune UPR Catch Cans Pypes Muffler Deletes
 

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1st off, the bbk crank pulley is actually heavier than the stock one.

with that said I did alot of research on udp's before I got my bbk's and I am very happy with them.

just keep in mind when installing the bbk kit you should either have a die grinder of a small hack saw nearby to shorten one of the alternator studs to make clearence for the water pump pulley.

as far as power gains you are pretty much splitting hairs in HP numbers between the brands. IMO the bbk looks the best and is the cheapest, therefore I suggest bbk
 

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Stick with Steeda udp's
 

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I went with Steeda. Make sure what ever brand you go with you get a new crank bolt and get it torqued right.
 

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IBEATU
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I ran the Steeda on mine for a few years and loved them. They come with everything you need including the shorter alternator bolt. I have had Steeda UDP's on my 98 for over 6 years with no problems.
 

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IBEATU
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I believe you torque it, back it off 90*,then re-torque it to a higher spec. You dont back it off after your final torque spec. That is pretty common on various automobile components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Any input on Cams no doubt CMD Plates will be installed at that point . And any input on Metco Idler pulley set? Thanks for the input from those who have installed these MOD's

USAfimj who U roll with Army??
 

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Good point but what is up with backing the bolt back 90 degrees after you torque it to spec?
initial torq seats the pulley on the crank snout
backing off removes friction from the washer
second torq tightens down the assembly to preper torq sped
the extra 90* stretches the bolt. its the stretch of the bolt that holds it all together and not the actual torq
 

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Any input on Cams no doubt CMD Plates will be installed at that point . And any input on Metco Idler pulley set? Thanks for the input from those who have installed these MOD's

USAfimj who U roll with Army??
cmdp's are a good idea to do at the same time as udp's or cams but not needed. Another option for you is you can skip the cmdp's and get a C&L Intake Manifold thats already out or wait til March and get the FRPP Intake Manifold. The C&L and FRPP intake manifolds remove the plates and are supposed to make more power than the stock intake w/ cmdp's. Ofcourse the more mods you have the more power you'll make. The idler pulley set is not needed unless you need to tighten up belt slack which won't be a problem if you go with udp's.

Cams are a great mod. I have the Stage II NSR Comp Cams (127200). Great cams, not much lope but noticeable, good power. If I were to do it again I'd wait to get cams when I upgrade the heads or swap out the springs for bigger cams. There are NSR (No Springs Req), VSR (Valve Springs Req), SPR cams (Spring & Phaser mod Req). If you aren't going to do the cams or springs on your own then save up alil more and get upgraded heads which come with upgraded valvetrain.

I roll with the USAF. I was in Cincinnati today for about 1hr at the airport.
 

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MM's resident Juice head
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search CAMS in here there is unlimited amount of info in here
 

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Why do you not want the Steeda UDPs? What ever you do replace the crank bolt as someone else mentioned earlier.
 

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I reused my crank pully bolt until I upgraded to ARp fasteners throughout the engine...it one of those things, you are suposed to replace it, people tell you to replace it, but there are people running the old one and I have never heard of one failing yet....but its up to you for your peace of mind
 

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remember also, when you keep upgrading your intake and you still have stock heads, you will run into the problem of less HP in your lower RPM range to the point where your car will seem slower (unless you supercharge that thing). You also might be a little disappointed in how much torque you will loss with all intake mods.

Spend the extra cash if your looking into cmdp's or a new manifold and get some heads with them.
 

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my kit said in the instructions that I did not have to change the bolt so I diddn't. had it on for about 3k miles now no problem.

if you do decide to replace it you can get stretch bolts from the service/parts departments of a ford dealership
 

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I've got a Steeda UDP crank pulley laying on my work bench that I don't need. I'm sure Steeda would sell the water pump pulley for cheap.

Also to the OP, are you saying that you'll gain hp by adding the 4 pc Metco idler pulley set? .. or are you saying from the UDPs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Guys

usaf Thanks for your service! No its not that I don't want to go with Steeda but the BBK has a little bling and with Metco's 4pc and they offer a Military Discount I thought a little HP and a nice upgrade to the wieght and apperance to the front of the engine not really interested in adding a supercharger but want to have a nice N/A GT for now. Thanks NUTCASE just wanted to know who was running the BBK's and I''m glad to hear it is a good piece. Heads $$$$ but this is a matrix C&L has a the new intake but they are developing matching heads and FRRP has heads and developing a intake and some guys are running Livernoise wich is not far and niether is Brenspeed for the NSR so wich is best??
Thanks for bringing this 20th century guy into the 21st when it comes to these MODDED MUSTANGS!

THANKS
 

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usaf Thanks for your service! No its not that I don't want to go with Steeda but the BBK has a little bling and with Metco's 4pc and they offer a Military Discount I thought a little HP and a nice upgrade to the wieght and apperance to the front of the engine not really interested in adding a supercharger but want to have a nice N/A GT for now. Thanks NUTCASE just wanted to know who was running the BBK's and I''m glad to hear it is a good piece. Heads $$$$ but this is a matrix C&L has a the new intake but they are developing matching heads and FRRP has heads and developing a intake and some guys are running Livernoise wich is not far and niether is Brenspeed for the NSR so wich is best??
Thanks for bringing this 20th century guy into the 21st when it comes to these MODDED MUSTANGS!

THANKS
Good luck on your install which ever brand you go with.

Is your car manual or automatic BTW?
 

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BWAL Is My Hero
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usaf Thanks for your service! No its not that I don't want to go with Steeda but the BBK has a little bling and with Metco's 4pc and they offer a Military Discount I thought a little HP and a nice upgrade to the wieght and apperance to the front of the engine not really interested in adding a supercharger but want to have a nice N/A GT for now. Thanks NUTCASE just wanted to know who was running the BBK's and I''m glad to hear it is a good piece. Heads $$$$ but this is a matrix C&L has a the new intake but they are developing matching heads and FRRP has heads and developing a intake and some guys are running Livernoise wich is not far and niether is Brenspeed for the NSR so wich is best??
Thanks for bringing this 20th century guy into the 21st when it comes to these MODDED MUSTANGS!

THANKS

NSR's are a waist SPR XFI's for the win.
 
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