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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I got a pretty much stock 1998 SVT Cobra. It has Cooper ZR1 Tires on the front, and i forget whats on the rear but there decent. I Just recently had a Zoom Racing clutch put into it double sided kevlar. I have a question about it, It vibrates while letting it out does anybody know why is that normal? And I'm going to be putting a Pro shifter 5.0 short throw, and a SCT Tuner(preloaded). SLP Loudmouth 1 Catback, SLP Shorty X Pipe(catted), SLP Coated long tube headers, JLT CAI. Anybody have any of these or friends with these mods if so let me know what you think and if i'll see a huge gain.


~Joe
 

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Zoolander
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if you want to turbo your car wait on the exhaust because you'll have to replace a lot of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, If I just get a SLP catback it said it should make 15-20 rwhp gains, and then a JLT CAI which makes 20 rwhp and a tune after all that which should be around 30 since stock it gets 22rwhp and thats on 91 and i only run 93. my car has 305 hp i should have around 370rwhp right? and would i be able to squeak the tires in 3rd or 4th? going like 40-50? I also have a double sided kevlar racing clutch that grabs HARD.
 

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Noob Slayer
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shouldnt be at 370rwhp after that more like 300rwhp
 

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Zoolander
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Don't ever rely on manufacturer claims. You won't make them. Those are tested on already modified engines, in the "perfect" environment.
 

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Don't ever rely on manufacturer claims. You won't make them. Those are tested on already modified engines, in the "perfect" environment.
very true.:yes


what do you want your car to do...
auto x
drag.
drift
or just nice street drivin
or somthin else. ?

that will help people help you out.
 

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Billy Weston
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5,076 Posts
Hey guys I got a pretty much stock 1998 SVT Cobra. It has Cooper ZR1 Tires on the front, and i forget whats on the rear but there decent. I Just recently had a Zoom Racing clutch put into it double sided kevlar. I have a question about it, It vibrates while letting it out does anybody know why is that normal? And I'm going to be putting a Pro shifter 5.0 short throw, and a SCT Tuner(preloaded). SLP Loudmouth 1 Catback, SLP Shorty X Pipe(catted), SLP Coated long tube headers, JLT CAI. Anybody have any of these or friends with these mods if so let me know what you think and if i'll see a huge gain.


~Joe
The vibration is clutch chatter and normal with such an agressive clutch.
 

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It's in the details Mod!
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Don't ever rely on manufacturer claims. You won't make them. Those are tested on already modified engines, in the "perfect" environment.
Exactly. If that was true my car would be putting around 340RWHP right now instead of 287. I wish.
 

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As long as its truly a strong clutch then its normal. Could also come from a shop who didnt turn the flywheel and just threw the clutch in.

My shop pulled that **** saying it "looked good and didnt need to turn" until I said on the spot, "do it again the right way or the next clutch is on you."

They decided the next clutch would be on them if it failed early. Got it in writing.

Needless to say it chattered once the car warmed up, and was a bitch to drive in traffic. A few months later it started overheating and blew into many pieces at almost redline.

Never again. I got super lucky and had no damage to anything. Had a different shop put a new one in and even had them directly bill the other shop instead of hiding it.

Now unless its really cold when I have clutch problems I change them myself and do it the right way.
 

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I have every damn bolt-on possible on my 96 and some with a tune. On a pretty muggy and rainy day it made around 270RWHP. The car also burns oil like a maniac so that had to hurt performance.


I wouldn't count for all of that doing more than 300RWHP especially if yours has quite a few miles on the block. If you try hard enough you'll get it in the 12's for sure. My best run with the motor sucking oil and gas was a 13.23. I know for sure it would have tipped the 12's.
 

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Zoolander
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think it might be time to replace some seals, and do some work to your fuel system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
shouldnt be at 370rwhp after that more like 300rwhp
Doesn't my car already have 305rwhp?

what do you want your car to do...
auto x
drag.
drift
or just nice street drivin
or somthin else. ?

that will help people help you out
I'm just going to be street driving but I wanna have a fast car that can toast any of my friends and a good ammount of people that pull up next to me.

As long as its truly a strong clutch then its normal. Could also come from a shop who didnt turn the flywheel and just threw the clutch in.

My shop pulled that **** saying it "looked good and didnt need to turn" until I said on the spot, "do it again the right way or the next clutch is on you."

They decided the next clutch would be on them if it failed early. Got it in writing.

Needless to say it chattered once the car warmed up, and was a bitch to drive in traffic. A few months later it started overheating and blew into many pieces at almost redline.

Never again. I got super lucky and had no damage to anything. Had a different shop put a new one in and even had them directly bill the other shop instead of hiding it.

Now unless its really cold when I have clutch problems I change them myself and do it the right way.
Idk if my shop flipped the flywheel I believe i remember them saying they did. Actually yes they did, because they said one side was toasted so they smoothed it and rotated it.

I have every damn bolt-on possible on my 96 and some with a tune. On a pretty muggy and rainy day it made around 270RWHP. The car also burns oil like a maniac so that had to hurt performance.


I wouldn't count for all of that doing more than 300RWHP especially if yours has quite a few miles on the block. If you try hard enough you'll get it in the 12's for sure. My best run with the motor sucking oil and gas was a 13.23. I know for sure it would have tipped the 12's.
Word. So how do you have 270rwhp if you have 305rwhp stock? Engine and piston wear?
 

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Mach1 FTW
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the factory ratings are taken at the flywheel not at the rear wheels. the trans, driveshaft, and rear axle all take away some power to turn. i hear you get big gains by reducing rotating mass on the drivetrain. try a set of gears (4.10 or better) you will be happy :cool:
 

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Yeah 305 flywheel is only around 260-270rwhp stock.

Being 11-13 years old there is a lot of variance from one guys car to the next in terms of aging and wear & tear.

Some might make 270rwhp stock while another bolts on a few different things and hits 265rwhp. Only way to know is to go dyno her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ohh alright, I thought that 305 was at the wheels. Well, If the engine was rebuilt 40,000 ago and It has 143,000 on it, and the rear end was rebuilt 2,000 ago what would it run aprox stock?
 

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MM's Orangest
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No way of knowing. If the car is stock it should still be somewhere in the 260-270 RWhp range.
 

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i have the jlt RAI, SLP LM1 exhaust minus the headers and a i love them. When you mash it you deffinately know you have a big intake. it breaths deep. the exhaust is increbidle sounding. loud and mean. i reccomend the catless mid pipe and catback exhaust. Either loudmouth system is great.
 

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Yeah, never go by the manufacturers claim of HP gains, and NEVER add up all of thier claims claims together......you wil be VERY dissapoinmted when the car hits the rollers or the track.

If you have more than 250 rear wheel, I would be shocked.
If the cars in good running condition, it should put down a little more then that. The 98s usually put down around 260-265 stock (where the 96-97s usually do 255, regardless of all three years bieng rated at 305 FW hp).

So with his bolt ons, I'd guess around 280.
 
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