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Discussion Starter #1
My mods are in sig. I haven't noticed anyone posting about just swapping out the sway bar bushings front and rear vs adjustable sway bars. I dd my mustang and have never taken it to the track. I enjoy corner curving sometimes, but to give you an idea of my driving I am currently at 18k miles plus and still have my stock Pirelli tires front and rear (brembo car). I figure I will get another 10k out of them. I plan to upgrade my wheels and tires to the steeda spyder 20x9.5 front and 20x11 rear.

Thank you for any input you can give me.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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6,578 Posts
My mods are in sig. I haven't noticed anyone posting about just swapping out the sway bar bushings front and rear vs adjustable sway bars. I dd my mustang and have never taken it to the track. I enjoy corner curving sometimes, but to give you an idea of my driving I am currently at 18k miles plus and still have my stock Pirelli tires front and rear (brembo car). I figure I will get another 10k out of them. I plan to upgrade my wheels and tires to the steeda spyder 20x9.5 front and 20x11 rear.

Thank you for any input you can give me.
The reason you don't hear about swapping JUST the bushings is because it serves very, very, very little tangible benefit. The stock bushings are already capable of minimizing the swaybar deflection. Upgrading the swaybars also usually come with stiffer bushings so people do them both at the same time. The swaybars themselves have a much larger impact on handling then the bushings do.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was hoping you would reply. I am leaning towards the whiteline kit. The endlinks look beefy. Any input on those?
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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6,578 Posts
I was hoping you would reply. I am leaning towards the whiteline kit. The endlinks look beefy. Any input on those?
I'm sure they are quality kit but I'm not overly thrilled with either the weight of the solid front bar or the routing of the rear bar which unnecessarily adds unsprung weight to the heaviest piece of suspension on the car. Like I said, I'm sure they are quality kit. Terry Fair runs them and likes them enough and he actually competes in autocross on the national level. I personally run Sam Strano's bars which are made by Hellwigg.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was looking at those as well, and can't beat lighter. I think you just made up my mind for me. Merry christmas to me, probably be a late present, but worth the wait.
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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Do you have the front adjustable endlinks?
I do, and to be perfectly honest, if you have a street driven vehicle and don't want the added harshness, but still want the adjustability, buy the swaybar set WITHOUT the endlinks, then go over to Maximum Motorsport's page and pick up their Powergrid Endlinks with the tie rods instead of rod ends. Less impact harshness with tie rods then the rod ends. UMI, the company that makes the endlinks for Sam uses the cheap QA1 rod ends, and they are HORRIBLE. Mine are loose enough that I'm contemplating tossing the units for next season. That was one season of autocross. The rod ends on my Fays2 Watts link (made by Aurora) are still tight and are constantly being loaded and unloaded by the rear axle and side to side forces.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
going to order the bars now and I will get the endlinks next. I still have the stock panhard bar brace. I have an adjustable panhard bar, should I upgrade the brace while I'm back there?
 

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At the Apex pulling 1.28g
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6,578 Posts
going to order the bars now and I will get the endlinks next. I still have the stock panhard bar brace. I have an adjustable panhard bar, should I upgrade the brace while I'm back there?
Ehhh... I say no. I don't have any "hard data" to back up this assumption but I'm assuming that the added "stiffness" of the aftermarket units isn't that noticeable... The whole premise of the pan hard support brace is to prevent the chassis side PHB mount from tearing off the unibody. The loads enacted on the part are strictly side to side and in that regard the stock unit is plenty capable.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
cool thanks, just saved me about $100. Maybe I will buy the endlinks now to go with the sway bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not to bring back an old thread but I have the strano bars installed middle hole front and rear. With my new grippy tires and staggered wheels, is this still the best settings, if not which bar should I change. I have my d specs at 4 1/2 turns of full hard front and 5 of full rear.
 
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