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Discussion Starter #1
i mentioned it in my build thread but got no responses. i'm wanting to lockout my phasers and delete the VCT system with the delete plates from the 6.8 3v V10. anybody done this before? anything i need other than the plates, lockouts, valve cover modification? any tips for doing it?
 

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I don't think that many of us have locked out the cam timing with parts from another motor. I think most of the folks who have done it have done them with parts made for the 4.6, that is probably why you haven't got any responses. They probably aren't familiar with what parts you can use between the two motors.

I know with the 4.6 parts all you need is to turn it off in the tune so you don't throw a CEL. I don't know what is all involved with, or any modifications, you need to do with the 6.8 lockouts. Why would you want to use those parts instead of the ones everyone else is using?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i'm not familiar with anyone making any 4.6 VCT delete plates. but the 6.8 V10 uses the same heads basically so the plates will just bolt in. i just want to be on the safe side. i don't see a problem using parts from a not very different motor. its no different then using the 8 rib pulleys off some of the F series trucks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i'm not talking about the lockouts. i plan on running those anyway. i'm talking about a plate that bolts over the VCT systems location on each head.

edit: ford part # 5C3Z-6N881-AA and 5C3Z-6N881-BA.
 

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I just did it in my car and it's working great. I've had the VCT lockouts in my car since Nov'09 but while I was replacing my timing parts I installed the V10 plates.







 

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Oh, and for plugging the valve covers I believe it was 45mm freeze plugs which I had to sand down the outside of them a bit to get a snug fit. If you're going through all this you may as well remove the PCV valve from the driver's side cover. You'll need to cut around the pipe and slide it out. Then re-weld it together. Be prepared though if you want to do this since it's a pain to deal with the baffle. You have to grind off all the push rivets to pop the baffle off, then drill the bosses and I used self tapping screws with jb weld.

You'll see the bump in the tube where the PCV valve is. You just hammer the tube out from the outside with a rubber mallet after taking the baffle out.


Even though this is the passenger side, you'll get the idea how I re-attached the baffle. You can't screw the top row back in since there isn't bosses.
 

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Not the best photo but here's the cover installed with the freeze plug. The orange is RTV I put around it before tapping the plug in.

 

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None that I can tell. The engine was built back in late '09 with the VCT lockouts but I didn't expect to spend so much so a lot of my stock timing parts were re-used with high miles. So while replacing them over this winter I figured I would do the V10 plates. They have gaskets on them so nothing else to buy for them. I put in the steel 2v tensioners as well and they are working good also.

You may as well put in the melling 10227 oil pump which has billet gears for safety. It's a bit of a pain to do with the engine in but it's doable. If you decide to do the pump you just need to unbolt the oil pan and let it drop as low as you can to get to the 2 bolts on the oil pick-up tube. If you ever think you'll go back to using the VCT then don't do the melling pump since it doesn't support the VCT function. I think it's a higher flow but lower pressure pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
good tips. do you have the part #'s for those 2v tensioners by chance? and why do you suggest a higher flow oil pump? you said for safety, but i'm under the impression the OEM oil pump should be fine.
 

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I'll just give you all the stuff that I did in case you're looking to do anything else. There's a few things I did that I don't have the part numbers for though. In red are the metal tensioners.

timing chain drive gear on the crank (XL3Z-6306-AA $25.29)
(2) 5W7Z-6268-AA Chain - Timing $43.88 each
(1) 4R3Z-6B274-BA Chain Guide - LH $14.29
(1) 4R3Z-6M256-CC Chain Guide - RH $12.58
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-AA Tensioner Arm - LH $14.29
(1) 1L2Z-6L253-BA Tensioner Arm - RH $14.29
(1) F6AZ-6L266-DA Tensioner - RH $53.23
(1) F6AZ-6L266-CA Tensioner - LH $53.23
(24) 5L1Z-6500-A hydraulic lash $6.31 each
(8) 4R3Z-9439-AA intake gaskets $7.92 each
Front cover gasket, right 4R3Z-6020-BE $11.21
Front cover gasket, left 4R3Z-6020-DB $4.70
Front cover gasket, center 4R3Z-6020-EB $4.81
Front cover seal, XW4Z-6700-A $7.47 (that seals around the balancer snout)

I got all these parts from a guy on the s197forum who is a parts dealer. 19COBRA93 is his user name on there.

EDIT: I also did comp valve springs, retainers and ford oem valve seals at the same time but I don't know the part numbers for those seals.
 

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Roughly the same cost as you would get if you ordered it from Tousley Ford. Very little markup from the dealer. If I were to have ordered the stuff from my local ford dealer I probably would have paid a few hundred more. So either get the stuff through him or Tousley Ford would be my recommendation.
 
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