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Discussion Starter #1
so from my understanding of the instructions with vortech i have to wrap the belt around the stock pulleys then around the blower then i can bolt it down?

is there some order that you guys do to make it easy? i have heard alot of people say how big of a pain in the ass it is so i want to learn the tricks :foshizzle:
 

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US Air Force (retired)
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You also have to go around the supercharger idler pulley. I have a ProCharger but you have to get the belt on loose before you can bolt down the head unit. Then you pull the tensioner back and slip the belt on the last pulley. That is the hard part. I have a smooth waterpump pulley so that is the easiest pulley to put the final loop on. If your waterpump pulley has lips then the tensioner might be the easiest. It has a smooth pulley. I cannot get a new belt on by myself. I have to jack up the car and have my wife hold it in place on the two bottom pulleys while I pull back the tensioner. Used belts I can do by myself but I have yet to get a new belt on by myself. It's just too tight.

P.S. My ProCharger bracket allows me to use a 3/8" ratchet to pull the tensioner back. I have read several times that Vortech drivers need to use Visegrips or pipe wrenches.
 

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I was able to swap belts out by routing the belt around the ac then around all the pullies then use a good quality large channel lock l rotate the base of the tensioner and slip the belt over the wp
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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Slide a pipe wrench onto the tensioner from the top and pry down. It sounds retarded, but after using a pry bar from underneath for hours, I tried SSG's pipe wrench method and it literally worked in minutes. I found putting the alternator pulley on last was easiest.

Also I've heard of people just snaking the belt through the pulleys with the bracket still installed, but I can't imagine that you could do that. I routed the belt with the bracket almost completely unmounted and gradually tightened the bracket as I snaked the belt on the other pulleys.
 

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Again, I have a ProCharger but for me the head unit needs to be on the bracket. Then I fit the head unit to the piping and the bracket to the motor with three bolts. One of which goes through the supercharger idler pulley. I've change dozens of belts. The absolute, most important thing is to get all of the spacers back where they need to be. Otherwise, your pulleys will be out of alignment and you will shred belts.

Ask me how I know.
 

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The Little 2v That Could
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Thanks for the advice, so another stupid question , do i bolt the sc braket to the timeing cover then bolt the headunit to the bracket? or do i have the headunit already on the bracket? Just trying to make sure i know as much as i can before do it.
Blower bolts to bracket before the bracket is bolted to the TC. Hold the bracket/blower up to the timing cover and "clock" the blower so the outlet is pointed where it lines up with fmic piping.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the advice after looking at the headunit i think i would have to have the headunit on the bracket just like the procharger. i will make sure that i remember to keep the spacers in place, at $37 a belt that could add up quick lol

---------- Post added at 11:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:44 PM ----------

Blower bolts to bracket before the bracket is bolted to the TC. Hold the bracket/blower up to the timing cover and "clock" the blower so the outlet is pointed where it lines up with fmic piping.
right now im just running a discharge pipe with meth for now, but to clock the blower is it just those allen bolts on the headunit? im a noob to this still but thats the only way i see it working lol
 

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Yeah thats all you have to do to clock the head unit,

And the people above are right, with a vortech bracket you cant use a tensioner tool or a ratchet. I use 24" channel locks when I change my belt but I will try the pipe wrench method next time.

I dont like using the channel locks because if the tensioner slips out it scratches it up pretty bad it doesnt do any harm to anything it just looks bad.
 

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R
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it is a tight fit using a fresh belt on a Vortech setup, the pipe wrench on the tensioner...everything gets mounted, the belt goes everywhere except the waterpump...might have to use a fat screwdriver or 3/8" extension to slide the belt onto the waterpump pulley...it isn't easy. The good news is if you have to take things back apart the belt stretches some and it isn't as hard to put on.
 

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Carving corners
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+1 with the pipe wrench works very very well, dont use channel locks, I did wand ended having to by a new tensioner I ****ed it up so bad. The water pump pulley trick only works if you have a wp pulley with no lip. Using the pipe wrench I leave the alternator last and you can get on there pretty easily by hand.
 

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R
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good point...I had the 'lipped' water pump pulley on my 2002, changed it to the 'bell' style and it made life alot easier...just couldn't get the belt over the alternator pulley.
 

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R
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F3LY-8509-A it is for 1996 to 2001 4.6L. either pull one from junkyard but alot of parts/restoration companies online sell them too....I've seen the prices range from $35 to $300...I got mine from a resto catalog site for around $50....well worth the less hassle!
 

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The pipe wrench makes it alot easier. I wouldn't replace the water pump pulley. You can slide the belt over the power steering pulley. Which pulley will you be using? If its the 3.6 with a 108" belt you won't have any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The pipe wrench makes it alot easier. I wouldn't replace the water pump pulley. You can slide the belt over the power steering pulley. Which pulley will you be using? If its the 3.6 with a 108" belt you won't have any issues.
i have a 3.6 with a 108 belt that good new to hear :thumb: so then you do power steering last then? thanks for the input everyone
 

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Torchin tires...
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Slide a pipe wrench onto the tensioner from the top and pry down. It sounds retarded, but after using a pry bar from underneath for hours, I tried SSG's pipe wrench method and it literally worked in minutes. I found putting the alternator pulley on last was easiest.

Also I've heard of people just snaking the belt through the pulleys with the bracket still installed, but I can't imagine that you could do that. I routed the belt with the bracket almost completely unmounted and gradually tightened the bracket as I snaked the belt on the other pulleys.
All of this ^ !
 

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whats the part # for a water pump pulley without a lip? I dont even want to try to **** with pump with the lip lol
Make sure you check to see which water pump you have before you order that pulley. Some car years have long water pump and some have short. You need the correct pulley to go with the type of water pump.
 

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Carving corners
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Make sure you check to see which water pump you have before you order that pulley. Some car years have long water pump and some have short. You need the correct pulley to go with the type of water pump.
+1 lot of guys machine the lip off of the pulley, but IMHO the alternator is the easiest pulley to mount the belt on because its right there.
 
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