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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what's up the the prices of clean new edges gone up lately but it kinda sucks if you want a low mile nice one as they're the same price as a 60-70k mile s197 3v .

Anyways looking to get rid of my 2014 and back into what my first mustang was being a 2v. Looking to have a boosted and built 2v. Probly can build as faster more fun car than what my 2014 5.0 is for half the price. Trying to look into the best options of a motor and will most likely go with a centri blower or kenne bell.

I'm not opposed to assembling my own rotating assembly. When I had mine I wanted a Kellogg crank. Manley h B beans and mahle pistons with ported pi heads
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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We can do a trade? 92k miles on mine LOL

I got my car with 70k miles for 6k. Just look around for deals and be patient. Look outside of your state. Consider flying to the seller and drive the car back.

Mustangs in Florida are a dime a dozen and run pretty cheap especially on the west coast where all the old people reside. Always ads indicating "selling for grandparents that passed on" or old dudes wanting to upgrade.
 

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Why not just buy a used supercharger/turbo kit for the coyote and make 600rwp on a stock motor and be done with it?
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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That's what I'm saying. I'd KILL to have a coyote motor. Why go back in technology? Only reason I stood back on a new stang was mine is paid off and I put funds towards a house. No car payments is a blissful thing. That and I pay 70 a month for full coverage. Geico wants 260 for a 5.0 motor. F that
 

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Im starting to question some of your all commitment to making the 2V Faster, All i hear is COYOTE in a 2V. Having a 600 RWHP 2V is impressive no the less. I like the 2V for what it is I could swap in any motor i wanted but it would no longer be a 2V and that is the whole point.

600RWHP is obtainable so how do you want to do it? there are many doing it you just have to chose a route and go.
 

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are you looking for 600 rwhp or specifically 600rwhp in an older 2 valve? unless your goal and hope is that if you sell your 2014 you can get to the hp you want for an overall lower cost vehicle you'd be better off boosting the newer one and have all the newer, better creature comforts
 

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SSG Pate - So you have done both. Can you give us your opinions as to the pluses and minuses between the Blower and the Turbo for a street car?
 

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Turbo is easier to make higher HP numbers with yet more complex as far as as components, and works great with stock heads or ported heads. A Centro is simple and easy to bolt on yet requires the right pulley set up to keep from slipping at higher boost levels and the best heads you can afford.

For 600 rwhp I say go turbo cause you'll be wanting 700 and the blower won't get you there without alot of money and belt slip issues.
 

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Im starting to question some of your all commitment to making the 2V Faster, All i hear is COYOTE in a 2V. Having a 600 RWHP 2V is impressive no the less. I like the 2V for what it is I could swap in any motor i wanted but it would no longer be a 2V and that is the whole point.

600RWHP is obtainable so how do you want to do it? there are many doing it you just have to chose a route and go.
Honestly like most know the 2v takes a lot of work to make power, you Pate know this better than anyone else. But the proof is in the pudding there are 5.3/4.8l stock bottom end LS's rolling around making 700rwhp+ with 18-20lbs of boost.

My end goal is to have an 8 second car, and yes its possible for a 2v to achieve this however a 2jz, coyote, 4v or even LS are much easier to achieve this reliably.

Don't get me wrong though if a person is wanting 600-700rwhp a 2v can do it, anything past that I would look into other options.
 

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6-700 hp is easy with these motors. It doesn't take much thought at all. Just some good internals and boost. Hell if i had to do it over.....id up the cr, get some trick flow heads and good cams, slap a good turbo on and make 600+ with 10 psi or so. Then gradually move up to 25-30 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry i haven't checked this in a while . Sold the 14 5.0. New job and such I couldn't afford to keep making the payment that it was, well I could but I need to get other debts paid off . Overal I'm just wanting a cheaper car that can be paid for and afford to build it . Was paying 450/ month for the 5.0 although it was a great car and platform . I was living a champagne life on a beer budget with it to be honest, no Sense in paying on a car and not being able to afford gas for it hardly .

My thoughts are find a cheap 01-04 gt. Possibly an auto since those go cheap. I want a project more or less to keep me occupied . Built 4r70 could do pretty good. Possibly a terminator shortblock with ported pi heads and a centri blower with hp 292 cams if they still make them. Since those were my goals 5 years ago when I had an 01 gt

Also curious on affordable forged internal options . I'm open to assembling a motor as I'm pretty mechanically inclined and didn't leave any screw unturned on my 01
 

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My thoughts are find a cheap 01-04 gt. Possibly an auto since those go cheap. I want a project more or less to keep me occupied . Built 4r70 could do pretty good. Possibly a terminator shortblock with ported pi heads and a centri blower with hp 292 cams if they still make them. Since those were my goals 5 years ago when I had an 01 gt

Also curious on affordable forged internal options . I'm open to assembling a motor as I'm pretty mechanically inclined and didn't leave any screw unturned on my 01
With a centri blower, a stalled auto is seriously the way to go. PD cars can cut good times with a stick, but centri's need to rev and a big stall lets it accomplish that.

An emerging trend for budget forged internals is using Manley/Diamond pistons, Boss rods, and your stock crank. 600rwhp is probably all you would want to push on that combo, but it'd definitely get you there. Keep in mind that you're going to need heads and cams to break 600rwhp with an auto which are going to be a hefty investment. Whether or not you want to skimp on internals when you are running a high dollar top end setup that like is up to you to decide.
 

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New time's coming soon!!!
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With a centri blower, a stalled auto is seriously the way to go. PD cars can cut good times with a stick, but centri's need to rev and a big stall lets it accomplish that.

An emerging trend for budget forged internals is using Manley/Diamond pistons, Boss rods, and your stock crank. 600rwhp is probably all you would want to push on that combo, but it'd definitely get you there. Keep in mind that you're going to need heads and cams to break 600rwhp with an auto which are going to be a hefty investment. Whether or not you want to skimp on internals when you are running a high dollar top end setup that like is up to you to decide.
Autos are gay!! :swordfight:
 

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