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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

Anyone have any suggestions on how to improve Rigidity and flex on these convertibles. I have a 1998 GT and because of the extremely ugly gap in the stock suspension I lowered the car a couple inches, this was 2 years ago. After lowering the car I bottomed out on a manhole and ripped the support brace right off the bottom of the car and dented the oil pan. 2 years later after pulling the K, replacing the pan and brace, then adding PI parts and fixing strut tower rust she's finally ready to go again but I don't want to be ripping off another brace anytime soon.

I raised it back up another inch in the front but the clearance is still super tight. It already has subframe connectors. Anyone know if I were to get a roll bar welded in would that increase the rigidity of the chassis enough to where I could pull off the bottom brace?

Has anyone else ever dealt with this on their convertibles? If so please any remedies besides raising it back to ugly stock stance, thanks.
 

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Those sub frame connectors that come from the factory are no good.....

Start off with a quality full length set of sub frame connectors and you will see 100 percent improvement in flex... Im hard to impress but taking off the Factory SFC and replacing with FLSFC made a big difference in my VERT.
 

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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
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5,502 Posts
Those sub frame connectors that come from the factory are no good.....

Start off with a quality full length set of sub frame connectors and you will see 100 percent improvement in flex... Im hard t impress but taking off the Factor SFC and replacing with FLSFC made a big difference in my VERT.
Seconding the SSG, here. This is all you'd need for a nice street car with decent rigidity (here's a link to maximum motorsport's set: MM Full Length Subframe Connectors, 1979-04, powdercoated). There are options for more rigidity beyond this, but more for track cars, rather than pure street cars.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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I'm with Pate. The flsfc is where it's at. The stock ones are worth nothing. Thin metal that's bolted in. I went with MMs brand and had them welded in.

Additionally I added front and rear strut tower braces.

Other then that I can only think about beefing up the sway bars.

These support bars you speak of.... do you mean sway bars? Not sure what you mean
 

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Full length SFCs are the way to go, I never realized how weak the chassis was until I added the MM xl sfc. I bought mine from AM, they have free shipping and coupon codes, maximum charges out the ass for shipping
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hey thanks for the replies guys

The subframe connectors that are on the car are actually full length aftermarket connectors that were welded in, was actually the first thing I had ever done to car. I guess my big question is... will adding a roll bar allow me to take the X-brace off since that was supposed to be the added rigidity for the missing roof on a vert. I plan on taking car into autocross in the future so I will have to get a roll bar regardless.
 

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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
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5,502 Posts
You don't need a roll bar for SCCA AX. I'm regularly in your region and I don't run one. That said, if you get a weld in 6 point with a diagonal brace, you will definitely see more rigidity.
 
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