Modded Mustang Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So up until now I was sure that I was just going to find a wrecked termi and take the drivetrain.... now though I'm torn between doing that and getting a CHP streetfighter shortblock and just doing 4v heads, New cams, valve train etc....

I do still want a T56 though.

What do you guys think? I just want a reliable 375-425 rwhp blown.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Thats up to you man, the strait up swap would be less work. A full build would cost more and obvioulsy be alot more work. I have a stock bottom end and drive it every day.. with a little more than 425.. lol. Deff with the T-56 tho
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
it would probably be cheaper to get a whole engine/transmission out of a wrecked cobra.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well the complete shortblock from stage3 is only like 2500. how much would heads and a tranny cost? because the only cobra drivetrains I could find were 5k-6k. and that's mileage dependent. I just feel alot more comfortable with something that I know every mile that has been put on it and how it was put on. I always assume that if a motor has 30k that it was 30k bouncin off the rev limiter. I just like the thought of brand new...
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
well to put it into perspective... i bought my shortblock for 2600. re-using the PI heads but having them gone through, new cams, valvesprings, gaskets, etc etc i'm over 6k into my new motor.. thats reusing everything from the intake, valve covers, timing cover, blah blah blah.. you are going to need 4v heads, cams, chains, tensioners, timing cover, gaskets, intake, brackets, coils, headers, wiring harness, tune, throttle cables, throttle body, power adder... dude the list keeps going and going. and thats not counting the transmission. to do a 4v swap, the easiest and cheapest way to do it is to buy a complete motor out of an 04 cobra that already has everything complete with the blower and transmission.. 6k is a steal for what you're getting out of it.
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
true, but it still doesn't have a transmission or a blower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well to put it into perspective... i bought my shortblock for 2600. re-using the PI heads but having them gone through, new cams, valvesprings, gaskets, etc etc i'm over 6k into my new motor.. thats reusing everything from the intake, valve covers, timing cover, blah blah blah.. you are going to need 4v heads, cams, chains, tensioners, timing cover, gaskets, intake, brackets, coils, headers, wiring harness, tune, throttle cables, throttle body, power adder... dude the list keeps going and going. and thats not counting the transmission. to do a 4v swap, the easiest and cheapest way to do it is to buy a complete motor out of an 04 cobra that already has everything complete with the blower and transmission.. 6k is a steal for what you're getting out of it.
True true... I guess I could buy a cheap high mileage cobra drivetrain and rebuild the motor and tranny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
true, but it still doesn't have a transmission or a blower.
but its 0 miles and surely able to handle daily driving 425rwhp for much longer than I will probably be keeping it.

My plan on just doing all the suspension and exterior mods saving up for a full drivetrain swap hoping my engine will last till then.
 

·
Boost gets you laid
Joined
·
2,625 Posts
that is true.. but a cobra motor is pretty damn indestructable.. even with 100k on them they still run strong. only thing it would need is a set of rings and maybe bearings.. theres not much else that would go wrong. tranny could probably use a flush and an oil change.. those too are strong. just buy an engine out of a STOCK cobra and that way theres a much less chance it was beat up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
that is true.. but a cobra motor is pretty damn indestructable.. even with 100k on them they still run strong.
+1 have seen this in person.. motor with over 100k making 500+ on the dyno.. all stock internals
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
See the thing is nowadays even if you find a bone stock donor more and more car owners don't know how to manage their preventative maintenance. I can't tell you how many people I've met that let their cars go over 8-10k between oil changes and they don't do anything else until something stops working. I know of a guy who drives his explorer running on what sounds like less than 5 cylinders.

Furthermore people who do maintain their cars seem to keep worse records these days.

On that note I don't know if any of you do this but whenever I replace something on my car or do any kind of maintenance I snap a picture of it. like the new EVR that I just installed I just take a pic of the part next to the bad one and just put date, mileage and name for the file name.

I find it becomes much less necessary if the potential buyer is a non-car person like us but when you get that enthusiast buyer it really helps and I have found that it locks the price at your asking price. most people don't try to negotiate a lower price when you have detailed maintenance records.
 

·
BYAHHHH!
Joined
·
18,672 Posts
i personally think its up to you and what your wanting.

I am doing internals, PP heads, cams next winter with my 2v b/c I want a badass 2v. I am keeping my stock iron block b/c people said they are good to over 800rwhp...hoping thats true though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well if you're going to 800rwhp then that's a bad ass 2v. I'm only planning for a conservative 425rwhp with a new valve train and sup. mods to handle more. I would rather make 425rwhp with 6psi all day every day than squeeze every drop out of it.

I like the thought of being able to change a pulley out and gain large numbers and then swap the other back in when I'm done using it.

Fact is 425rwhp will be able to demolish anything I run into that's not a really bad ass car. in that case though who cares I got to race a really bad ass car. If some dickhead with a built LS1 takes me and talks a bunch of **** I'll swap out the pulley. truth is though most of the time its more constructive to lose. If you win the opponent is usually on the defensive and talks about what he didn't do right or how his car isnt running right. if you barely lose they are always like damn dude your car is ****in fast yo. It's been a while since anyone has held me like that. What do you have done?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top