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Bo Baustin
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There's a transmission calibration problem which plagues these cars when they get quick enough. I have now figured out how to resolve this. It can't be changed currently in any of the available aftermarket software. I had hoped it would be worth half this much, car picked up 3 tenths with no changes other than calibration! Weather was reasonably close to last time, not that it effects forced induction cars much anyway. Real happy with this car now, and know that when we get the time a converter change is going to make it still quicker!

https://youtu.be/d1Okh-cUeQw
That's sick.

What are the mods on that car?
 

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So I picked this up today for $20. Possibly the best $20 I've ever spent lol. Now just gotta save up and order some go fast parts and a Lund tune.

Plan on going with some cat delete pipes soon and a lund tune, are the summit/jegs cat deletes any good? I read a couple of reviews but nothing really convincing.

Also found what was causing an annoying bumping in the rear of my car. Put my car on the lift at work during my lunch break and started shaking things trying to pinpoint the noise and found that both of my rear sway bar links are bad at only 49,xxx miles. Really not to impressed with Ford on that but oh well. Could be worse I guess.
 

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That's sick.

What are the mods on that car?
Engine has the Roush kit with 82mm pulley, absolutely nothing else. It's now to the point that it is going to need some larger injectors in order to keep up.

Trans has a 2C 245mm converter. I feel this isn't a very good match for this car, that it should 60 in the 1.3x range, so this will be replaced with a modified stock converter.

Rear is 3.08, you can hear it shift to 4th right before he lets out, so this needs to change to a 2.73.

Weld wheels, 29" bias front tires, 30x10.5 radial rears.

Nothing outrageous about the suspension. Front has some single adjustable struts and some delalum control arm bushings. Rear has some control arms with bearings after blowing out the bushings like seems to be a constant thing with aftermarket control arms anymore. It's got some single adjust shocks and an anti roll bar on it. Stock Mustang springs front and rear.

Other than that, some things save weight like tubular radiator support and bumpers, dumped exhaust, fixed back seats and rear seat delete, driveshaft, removal of evap. But then weight goes back in with the ice tank in the trunk and the mild steel roll bar, so it is no flyweight, around 3525-3550lbs when on track, I should scale it again.

I'd say the thing about it is it can't be making much power, but it is able to use every bit it has. I'd guess if his headers went on now and stepping the pulley down a little plus fixing the things above it could go 9.50 on the stock engine if it stayed together. But the plan is just to do a shortblock, so I don't want to hurt the heads, etc now. He's also got a 2.9 whipple and 10 rib drive. Those will be used to go hunting for 8 second slips.

 

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Biz Jet Fixer
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4,985 Posts
So I picked this up today for $20. Possibly the best $20 I've ever spent lol. Now just gotta save up and order some go fast parts and a Lund tune.

Plan on going with some cat delete pipes soon and a lund tune, are the summit/jegs cat deletes any good? I read a couple of reviews but nothing really convincing.
They're OK.

If you can swing (or don't mind waiting til Black Friday for a better deal) I'd hold out for a Lethal O/R H or X and make better gains with better flow.

I had the Jegs deletes and switched to a Lethal H. Felt a mildly noticeable difference in power and a definitely noticeable difference in the tone of the exhaust (in a good way).
 

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They're OK.

If you can swing (or don't mind waiting til Black Friday for a better deal) I'd hold out for a Lethal O/R H or X and make better gains with better flow.

I had the Jegs deletes and switched to a Lethal H. Felt a mildly noticeable difference in power and a definitely noticeable difference in the tone of the exhaust (in a good way).
Cool deal, I'm sure the lethal pipes are way better quality. I'll probably just wait and do that. That will give me time to save and order the O/R H and Lund tune at the same time.
 

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Hi I'm Sean
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3,962 Posts
I have been trying to find some tires for my car but no one sells anything that is wide in 18 inches. I have been looking at the Trofeo R's because they are 25lbs. each, but they only come in 295/30/18 which is about 2 -2.5 inches shorter than my factory tires are. I think I will probably go with some MPSS tires though although they weigh 28lbs. each but I can get them in 295/35/18 which would be about 1 inch shorter than factory. With the Trofeo R's I would save 54lbs. off my current LS wheels while the MPSS would save me 40lbs. Price wise, the Trofeo R's would be $300 more but for a R compound tire that would have more grip on Track days and be lighter, but they would probably wear faster and are horrendous in the rain. The MPSS would last longer, are cheaper and pretty good in the rain but heavier and not as good of a tire in terms of grip although still a very capable tire.

:bash:
 

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11.5:1 or GTFO
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12,899 Posts
I have been trying to find some tires for my car but no one sells anything that is wide in 18 inches. I have been looking at the Trofeo R's because they are 25lbs. each, but they only come in 295/30/18 which is about 2 -2.5 inches shorter than my factory tires are. I think I will probably go with some MPSS tires though although they weigh 28lbs. each but I can get them in 295/35/18 which would be about 1 inch shorter than factory. With the Trofeo R's I would save 54lbs. off my current LS wheels while the MPSS would save me 40lbs. Price wise, the Trofeo R's would be $300 more but for a R compound tire that would have more grip on Track days and be lighter, but they would probably wear faster and are horrendous in the rain. The MPSS would last longer, are cheaper and pretty good in the rain but heavier and not as good of a tire in terms of grip although still a very capable tire.

:bash:
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/pattern/proxes-r888-DOT-competition-tires
 

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Funny watching people go up to the track. I'm not really friends with them, more so just met them once and that's it. One kid has a 4th Gen camaro, thinks it's real fast because it made like 480whp. Best he ran was 12.2 at 114. Think his best trap was a 118. Another is a procharged coyote. Made like 650 whp thinks it's the fastest thing. Car ran 11.2. Not to mention today is like mine shaft air conditions. Think it's close to 1200 below.

Just to think my white car would have raped that build h/c camaro. I'm starting to see why people get so annoyed over dyno numbers lol. If I was making 650 whp and only running 11.2 in crazy good air, I'd be pissed.

My rant for the day
 

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I went to the track last night (1/8th mile) and was only able to make 2 passes. First pass was terrible, not even going to talk about that one. Second pass ran an 8.59 @ 88mph with a 2.2 60ft and .133 reaction. Mods since last season are BMR budget control arms and relocation brackets and an SCT canned tune. Heated the tires up just a little bit and left at about 3k. Spun a little and felt like a good pass, just didn't have a good 60ft. My personal best is a [email protected] with a 2.1 60ft with 100% stock car. I think I just need some more seat time at the track. Last night was the first time I've ran at the track in a year.
 

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11.5:1 or GTFO
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12,899 Posts
I ****ing love your car


Trade me your GT500 wheels for my AMR's tho :)
 

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Obsessed Detailer
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8,609 Posts
What's everyone's opinion on the Airaid insert tube? Worth $50?
Isn't that insert for when you aren't tuned? I took mine out when I got tuned by Lund.
 

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Zip's half naked helper
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11,663 Posts
No, I'm looking at the tube that replaces the stock flex tube from the air box to the tgrottle body. I've always liked how they look, and the one I'm looking at is used, but in good shape. It's missing the coupler to the air box, but that's no biggie. I just haven't done anything new to the car in a while, and I needed a cheap fix until I can get back into doing mids next year.
 
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