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Skargon, a chin is a nice touch but I think you need to just get the steering wheel first! OEM would be nice.:yes
Thats quite a nice OEM wheel mine was really thin. Now i have an fr500 and love it.
 

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ive also started a write up for H/C/I swaps

this i what ive got done so far, and i will be adding pics

what do you guys think

H/C/I Swap for the Essex Ford V6
***This has been written out of boredom, it is not intended to be your step by step guide, and I have written this to try to help people out with this swap. You are still going to need a Haynes or Chilton’s manual and some basic knowledge. The best tip I have is to label every single bolt in zip lock bags, if you do not do this re assembly is going to be very difficult and slow. My car is Windstar swapped and I have the EGR deleted so this is written around that***
The first thing that you are going to want to do is disconnect the battery, secondly you want to drain the fuel pressure, Park the car in a ventilated area where you will be doing the swap and disconnect the inertia switch in the trunk of the vehicle.
Start the car up, it will run rough for a few seconds to a few minutes, this allows the car to burn all the fuel in the lines and this helps minimize any leakage when you disconnect the fuel rail to get it out of the way.
Once that is complete you are going to want to place the car on jack stands, this makes it easier to work on IMO, less bending over and easier to reach things in the engine bay, once your done get your drain pan and lets drain the coolant. There is coolant drain plugs on the passenger side of the radiator right near the bottom, it takes a 15mm wrench, get your drain pan ready and slowly loosen the plug.
The coolant may take a few minutes to drain and you’re not going to get all of it out by doing this, there will still be lots in the block and heads that will come out later, remember to keep lots of floor dry (absorbent) handy.
***This is more or less the order I did everything in its not necessarily the only or even the proper way but it’s how I did it.***
Next I removed my Upper intake manifold (Windstar) and this guide is written around the Windstar swap. ** It will probably be handy to have the VAP install info printed out if you are not familiar with how it all went together**
Take off your air filter, MAF, and intake pipe. There are a few hose clamps that will have to come off as well as some Vac lines on the intake pipe. Now move on to the throttle body, this can probably stay connected to the upper intake manifold as well as the IAC re location bracket. Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle body and then un bolt the small bracket holding the 2 cables from the coil pack re location bracket Look at your spark plug wires the stock ones are labeled to let you know which cylinder they are for, if they are not go ahead and label them now. Disconnect them from the coil pack and set them aside for now. Remove all vac lines from the upper intake manifold and label where they go. Now move on to the 12 bolts holding the upper on, once these are out you should be able to lift the upper manifold off of the motor with the coil pack and throttle body attached. Fill the ports in both the upper and lower intakes with rags to keep any dust and debris out.
Now you want to go ahead and disconnect the electrical connection that goes into the fan, be very careful as the plastic connector will be quite brittle, I broke mine while taking it off. Now remove the bolts holding the fan on, there are only a few of them and the whole fan lifts out easily. Remember to label a bag and put the bolts in it.
Next comes the removal of the coolant overflow tank, it is held on by 1 bolt on the top and a bracket at the bottom of the radiator. Once you take out the bolt on the top it should come out easily. Now that the tank is out of the way let’s move on to the pulleys.
I do not know how it is for 01-04 but on my 2000 there was only 1 large bolt holding the crank pulley to the crank, you will need a large crowbar or breaker bar to wedge between the pulley and the floor to prevent the motor from turning over as you loosen this, IIRC it is a 22mm bolt. You will also need a breaker bar to provide the leverage to crack the bolt loose. Once you have the bolt and large washer out you can proceed to pull the crank pulley with a puller. Now loosen the water pump pulley bolts and remove it. You might have to tap on the water pump pulley with a rubber mallet to get it to come off.
Now it’s time to remove the alternator, there are 2 bolts holding it on and a few electrical connections.
Next disconnect the lines going to the power steering pump, have your drain pan below to catch any overflow. Now move onto the power steering pump, you do not have to remove it from the bracket holding it to the head and the pulley does not have to come off, you will need a universal (flex joint) to reach one of the bolts behind the pulley, other than that its easy. Once you have the bolts out remove the whole pump and bracket out of the engine bay and set it down somewhere, you might want to drain the tank to avoid anymore spillage.
Now we can move over to the AC unit, be very careful not to break any of the hard lines , take the bolts off holding the unit to the passenger head and gently move the unit out of the way, I used zip ties to hold it in place and keep the lines from bending and breaking on me.
Now you can move on to the fuel rail, take out the 4 bolts holding it to the lower intake and use your fuel line disconnect tools to disconnect it from the main fuel line. This is not completely necessary, alternatively you can zip tie it out of the way but I found that it was always in the way for something. The injectors should easily pull right out of the head, do not disconnect them from the rail unless you are swapping injectors this will save you some time and frustration during re assembly.
 

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Cool. I wanted an FR steering wheel so bad... That hit is so damn expensive though! ....for me at least... Lol
i paid $80 for a used one before they were discontinued. Now they are like $700 for one. its crazy.
 

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MM Gaming Guru
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I really wish I had gotten one before they discontinued, they look really nice and I have never heard any complaints.
 

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I want a Steering wheel, Could I get one WITHOUT airbag for pretty cheap from a junkyard? Or does the airbag HAVE to be in it?

I Also..

Found out my Exhaust is leaking right before my Muffler, Thanks to a wet spot i've been seeing and just now getting to look at it.. Lol

Also, Fixed my Low Idle problem, The engine was Idling at 600 so I adjusted the screw that was on my throttle cable next to my Throttle Body, And it idle's at a healthy 850 now, without the Harsh vibrations; I checked for Vacuum leaks, It wasn't one The screw was almost out of the Hole. o_O;

So now, The Stang.. Runs with no Problems, No bad Idle, No Bad Leaks, Except Exhaust, Which is okay because its louder now.. Lol Body/Paint is next on Clean up list.
Headlights First, If I dont find a cheap ass steering wheel at a Yard.
 

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Just Cheesin'
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I got the one pushrod. I put it in right after I got off work. In the morning I'm going to put the other valve cover on, the new plugs in, and plug wires.
 

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