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Discussion Starter #1
I bought an aftermarket hood from latemodel resto, tried for hours to get it to latch but its not gonna happen. Pretty sure something got screwed up when making it as it wont even stay on the safety. So now im looking at pins. The hood is high quality/ thick fiberglass, weighs over 40lbs. Is it safe to drill it for pins? If so what type of bit? Anyone use the pep boys/autozone kit or am i better off ordering and waiting frpp one?
 

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step drill's usually work best from my experience
 

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I understand you tried for hours but did you get the latch/hood alignment correct? I'd hate to see you pin the hood if you really don't want too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Theres no paint, just primer so no worries. Ive moved the latch every which way and it gets no better. Once in a while i can get the safety to pop in the right spot but it wont lock in the hood. The latch itself, forget it. And nothing is hitting the hood either. I dont mind pinning, just dont want thr hood to crack and not sure if theres special bits to drill fiberglass.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One thats a little bigger then the hood pin...
you do understand there's a difference between size and type right? I can figure out the size just fine but there's different bits for different materials you're drilling through. That's what I was asking. Not sure if a metal bit is cool for fiberglass.

and jeebus, 90 bucks for pins eh...hm
 

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As stated above, a step drill bit should work best. I know some have used a hole saw on fiberglass successfuly
 

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you can use about any drill you want except for say a wood drill bit or masonary bit. your not going to hurt the hood with your normal run of the mill drill drill bit that you can get at any hardwar store.
 

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Most hood pins have the small metal plate that screws to the hood around the hole you're going to drill anyway.
So... if you do tear up the fiberglass a little bit, you won't be able to see it.
 

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and remember after you drill the hole, if its a bit ragged just coat the edged with a bit of clear fingernail polish. it rebonds with the fibers and helps keep them from fraying more.

when I put my pins on, I used the cheap autozone parts store kit, and drilled the hole with a step bit. no problems. I mounted the stud to my radiator core support forst, and put a small dab of grease on the tip of it then closed the hood on it so the grease marked where the hole needed to be. then I drilled a hole just a bit wider than the pin and did the same thing on the next layer of material. then i used the step bit to open them up a bit more so there was no rubbing as I opened and closed the hood. with the scuff plate I coated the back with a thin layer of silicone and put it in place and then opend and closed the hood and few more times to make sure everything was lined up good. then I put the screws in the scuff plate. worked for me.
 

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and remember after you drill the hole, if its a bit ragged just coat the edged with a bit of clear fingernail polish. it rebonds with the fibers and helps keep them from fraying more.

when I put my pins on, I used the cheap autozone parts store kit, and drilled the hole with a step bit. no problems. I mounted the stud to my radiator core support forst, and put a small dab of grease on the tip of it then closed the hood on it so the grease marked where the hole needed to be. then I drilled a hole just a bit wider than the pin and did the same thing on the next layer of material. then i used the step bit to open them up a bit more so there was no rubbing as I opened and closed the hood. with the scuff plate I coated the back with a thin layer of silicone and put it in place and then opend and closed the hood and few more times to make sure everything was lined up good. then I put the screws in the scuff plate. worked for me.
+1
I basically did exactly what he typed up.
Step up bits are a little pricey, but have so many uses they're worth every penny. Good luck.
 

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I'd get a step bit. I drilled a tiny pilot hole, then a 1/4" pilot hole, then I used a step bit that went up to 3/4 inch. Worked perfectly.

My best results came from spinning the bit as fast as I could with the drill but using very little pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks guys, i'm really discouraged at this point. I ordered this same hood in february and it never came and the business (pershing auto) cut off all contact with me. I finally ordered this one from late model resto and after spending $600 on it you'd think it would fit like they said, but there's just no way in hell this thing is ever gonna latch. The safety doesn't even fit in the hole :mad: so i guess now i gotta wait yet another week to install the hood, sigh
 

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I ended up using the pins from the FRPP kit and my old man machined me a set of billet scuff plates that were one piece, T shape that fit into the hole in the hood to make it a little more solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There's no brand attached to it, naturally. But coming from latemodel resto I expected quality. AM doesn't sell mach hoods. I am really disappointed. I have a brand new ford latch so I know it's nothing on my end, it is strictly the hood. I have three other hoods here and every other one of them I can bolt on and it shuts perfect. No adjustment necessary. This mach one, forget it. If it wasn't over $100 to ship it back i'd do it, but that's where they get ya.
 

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That sucks balls, dude.
I'd be pretty pissed off, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah bro. I've already cancelled two appointments to get the car sprayed since february when i initially ordered a hood. Anywho... it's cool to just rip out the latch once i get pins right? not like it's doing anything.
 
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