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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this happened of course 2 hours from my home. It goes to the heater core from somewhere behind the engine. What is this hose called? It's not the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the core but the other one.

I keep a basic tool set in my car for times like this. Basic mechanic tool set. Is it something I can do in the parking lot?

I'm thinking pliers, new hose, coolant, and a screw driver.
 

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Super Moderator
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heater hose
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I drove 10 miles and it started heating up again. I removed the radiator cap ever so slowly and coolant came puking out. I added a gallon of coolant and drove 10 more miles. This time the reservoir was barely full. I added about half gallon and drove another 10 miles. Everything is fine now.

I bought an emissions kit on Amazon that tests the coolant for emissions gases to see if this crap costed me a head gasket. You basically hook it up to the radiator cap and the liquid turns color if the presence of exhaust gases are there. I also have a cooling system pressure testing kit at home.

Any reason why it'd puke like that then be fine? It puked up an entire gallon of coolant. Was there air trapped or something? More to report when I get home in 35 more miles. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

Long story short... when you replace the heater core inlet...replace the outlet hose too!

On the outlet where it connects to the line that goes to the pump, do I need to install the factory clamp or will a hose clamp do? It's a stainless steel US made clamp that's extremely heavy duty.
 

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Sounds like you had a air pocket in there.. One easy way to keep that from happening in the future and a method that has worked well for me is to jack up the front of the car when adding coolant so that the over flow is higher then the rest of the engine.. By doing this it fills up the engine block and parts first.
 

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King Trashmouth
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On the outlet where it connects to the line that goes to the pump, do I need to install the factory clamp or will a hose clamp do? It's a stainless steel US made clamp that's extremely heavy duty.
I would recommend using the factory style constant tension spring clamp. They provide a more consistent seal, which is why manufacturers use them.

Of course in reality a stainless hose clamp will likely serve the purpose.
 

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6 Cylinduh, Really Bruh?
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5,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds like you had a air pocket in there.. One easy way to keep that from happening in the future and a method that has worked well for me is to jack up the front of the car when adding coolant so that the over flow is higher then the rest of the engine.. By doing this it fills up the engine block and parts first.
Thank you. That puts my mind at ease because I made it home the last 30 miles of my trip last night with no issue. It also makes sense why I never had this issue in the past because I always filled it with the front jacked up in the air. Now I know to make sure I do that going forward. This time I didn't have a choice as I was doing a repair in the parking lot of a hotel
 
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