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Rotella T, AMS oil, or castrol with a wix, stp, or purolator oil filter.
 

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K. Don't bother with synthetic unless you plan on extending the drain interval,otherwise the added cost is money down the drain. Synthetic oils don't have magic pixie dust in them nor ground up unicorn horns,so don't kid yourself into thinking that they protect anything any better than a quality conventional oil does,they last longer in service. So to get return on your investment you gotta run the oil longer.
In the summer I use a conventional and change it a bit more often. I like to be under the car and it gives me a chance to see if there are any issues with it.
I use a 0w synthetic in the winter because it pumps quicker in the cold we get here.
Now don't get me wrong,there are some applications where a conventional either just won't hold up or a specific engine has a spec that can only be met with a synthetic,however 99% of people don't need a syn for day to day driving.
That being said there are some really god syns out there. M1 0w-40 is one of the best oils on earth as are everything red line makes. Or you can get great deals at Walmart on PP and Quaker state ultimate durability. When Walmart has syns on rollback they are around the same price as the conventionals regular prices.
And there's nothing wrong with fram filters. In fact the ultra is one of the best made filters available,the orange can isn't a great filter for the price but your engine isn't going to blow up using it.
Any of today's conventionals can do a 5000 mile interval,and most syns should do 10000 miles or there's no point in paying the extra money for them.
Do some research at bob s the oil guy. Great site with some enlightening info.
 

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Sheriff Metal Face
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K. Don't bother with synthetic unless you plan on extending the drain interval,otherwise the added cost is money down the drain. Synthetic oils don't have magic pixie dust in them nor ground up unicorn horns,so don't kid yourself into thinking that they protect anything any better than a quality conventional oil does,they last longer in service. So to get return on your investment you gotta run the oil longer.
In the summer I use a conventional and change it a bit more often. I like to be under the car and it gives me a chance to see if there are any issues with it.
I use a 0w synthetic in the winter because it pumps quicker in the cold we get here.
Now don't get me wrong,there are some applications where a conventional either just won't hold up or a specific engine has a spec that can only be met with a synthetic,however 99% of people don't need a syn for day to day driving.
That being said there are some really god syns out there. M1 0w-40 is one of the best oils on earth as are everything red line makes. Or you can get great deals at Walmart on PP and Quaker state ultimate durability. When Walmart has syns on rollback they are around the same price as the conventionals regular prices.
And there's nothing wrong with fram filters. In fact the ultra is one of the best made filters available,the orange can isn't a great filter for the price but your engine isn't going to blow up using it.
Any of today's conventionals can do a 5000 mile interval,and most syns should do 10000 miles or there's no point in paying the extra money for them.
Do some research at bob s the oil guy. Great site with some enlightening info.
Fram sucks in general. M1 is nothing special. In fact, pretty much every oil you buy on the shelves at stores is the same regarding zinc and phosphorous levels, which is what protects your engine from wear and is the oil's main purpose. Valvoline vr1 and vr1 synthetic, any form of rotella, brad penn, RP hps and xpr are the best in terms of zddp levels.


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Resident asshole
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Fram sucks in general. M1 is nothing special. In fact, pretty much every oil you buy on the shelves at stores is the same regarding zinc and phosphorous levels, which is what protects your engine from wear and is the oil's main purpose. Valvoline vr1 and vr1 synthetic, any form of rotella, brad penn, RP hps and xpr are the best in terms of zddp levels.


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Zddp is old news and the Stone Age when it comes to anti wear agents. With the addition of friction modifiers and high viscosity index zddp isn't even needed anymore.
There are oils with polymer adds that are nano sized spheres and the moving parts roll on the microscopic little balls thus completely eliminating wear.
Get out of yesterday bud the future is here.
 

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Sheriff Metal Face
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Zddp is old news and the Stone Age when it comes to anti wear agents. With the addition of friction modifiers and high viscosity index zddp isn't even needed anymore.
There are oils with polymer adds that are nano sized spheres and the moving parts roll on the microscopic little balls thus completely eliminating wear.
Get out of yesterday bud the future is here.
I'm sorry but I can't take anyone seriously that recommends Fram and says M1 is one of the best oils on earth lol.


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I'm sorry but I can't take anyone seriously that recommends Fram and says M1 is one of the best oils on earth lol.
Agreed!

K. Don't bother with synthetic unless you plan on extending the drain interval,otherwise the added cost is money down the drain. Synthetic oils don't have magic pixie dust in them nor ground up unicorn horns,so don't kid yourself into thinking that they protect anything any better than a quality conventional oil does,they last longer in service. So to get return on your investment you gotta run the oil longer.
Also when someone says that synthetic is only better if you are going to run the engine for longer intervals and does nothing else. To say 99% of people wouldn't benefit from it is just silly. You obviously seem to think you know alot about oil, so that statement just bewilders me. I've yet to see any real world info where synthetic DIDN'T perform better across the board of tests. If you have that info, I'd love to see it. Just the look of my oil at 5k before I started using synthetics alone spoke volumes. And to NOT say on a Mustang forum of all places, where people here beat on their cars, that the longevity of synthetics under RPM's and heat ISN'T a determining factor for using it when conventional oil wears out quicker under hard use is just silly. Who's living in the past? I'll take my, proven to myself in my own cars, synthetic pixie dust unicorn horn oil.
 

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Valvoline 5w-30 with Motorcraft filter also here. I change my oil every 1000 miles tho. I know how much I drive and "abuse" the car so...... It might be overkill but its cheap insurance for the way I roll.
 

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Valvoline VR1 10w-30 with a Motorcraft filter here.


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This

Non synthetic VR1 for me.

---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:16 AM ----------

Zddp is old news and the Stone Age when it comes to anti wear agents. With the addition of friction modifiers and high viscosity index zddp isn't even needed anymore.
There are oils with polymer adds that are nano sized spheres and the moving parts roll on the microscopic little balls thus completely eliminating wear.
Get out of yesterday bud the future is here.
Completely incorrect. For newer roller engines, sure, but I can promise you that if you run a flat tappet cam with an oil with low phosphorus, or zinc levels, it WILL wipe a lobe. So when using an engine from the past, it's not wise to live in the future.
 
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