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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like title states.
I've currently got these on the way:MAFia, 42# injectors, 3 pulleys, and a 6" crank pulley (no idea what this is for, but I got it for free), and a v1 t trim(pics below)
These are what I had in mind
powerpipe: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/215100-parts-list-make-your-own-power-pipe.html
Bracket and mounting: Vortech 2000-2004 Mustang 4.6L Mounting Bracket Assembly [V4FL111-031] - $279.00 : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power
Intercooler: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...22-KIT300-EB-300-BOV009&Category_Code=ICDK300
And a fuel pump from kurgan.

Here is what is coming with the v1:


And pic of impeller. Does it look ok?



What else will I be needing?
 

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oil feed and return line

---------- Post added at 01:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:19 PM ----------

nevermind i see it in ur pic

---------- Post added at 01:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:19 PM ----------

i guess spark plugs and a tune. everything u have listed looks good to me. someone else will help more

---------- Post added at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------

filter
 

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You dont really need a boost gauge. I would much rather have a wideband or even oil/fuel pressure over boost gauge. Boost will just tell you whether or not the blower is working correctly. The other gauges will tell you when something is wrong. Which i would be more worried about. I personally have the aeroforce interceptor gauge with wideband and a separate boost gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Boost gauge ;)
You dont really need a boost gauge. I would much rather have a wideband or even oil/fuel pressure over boost gauge. Boost will just tell you whether or not the blower is working correctly. The other gauges will tell you when something is wrong. Which i would be more worried about. I personally have the aeroforce interceptor gauge with wideband and a separate boost gauge
I was going to grab boost and a/f for the column pod I bought the following week since I'm broke now :lol

A wideband is "better" than the traditional a/f right? Will the plain a/f get me by for a while?

I'll be grabbing a fuel pressure and (undecided) gauge once I get my gauge cluster pod.


You guys think I should buy the fittings for the oil pan drain/feed? I know he's sending the hoses but I'm not sure what fittings come with it. If I have to wait a week over that I'll be :mad:

And how does the impeller look? Decent/working shape? Whts the crank pulley for? :lol
 

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I was going to grab boost and a/f for the column pod I bought the following week since I'm broke now :lol

A wideband is "better" than the traditional a/f right? Will the plain a/f get me by for a while?

I'll be grabbing a fuel pressure and (undecided) gauge once I get my gauge cluster pod.


You guys think I should buy the fittings for the oil pan drain/feed? I know he's sending the hoses but I'm not sure what fittings come with it. If I have to wait a week over that I'll be :mad:

And how does the impeller look? Decent/working shape? Whts the crank pulley for? :lol
i found the fitting i needed for the feed line at an ace hardware. inot sure about the return line end but he should include that
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i found the fitting i needed for the feed line at an ace hardware. inot sure about the return line end but he should include that
I'm lazy :p
Im also doing a build.... Subscribed to see how your build comes along. Good luck
Thanks man ill throw together a build thread once I get everything. If I have the patience it's going to be very detailed :)
 

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On a side note t trims have a 3 3/4 outlet for the powerpipe and the s trims have 3 1/2 measure the headunit when you get it or before you buy it and make sure you're actually getting a t trim. One thing vortech told me to do when I called
 

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I was going to grab boost and a/f for the column pod I bought the following week since I'm broke now :lol

A wideband is "better" than the traditional a/f right? Will the plain a/f get me by for a while?
A traditional a/f gauge is a series of lights that go from yellow to green to red. Tells you nothing about your afr.

Get a wideband, they are a bit more money, but it actually tells you your afr. Most go from 10.x-17.

And a boost gauge does more than tell you if the s/c is working correctly. Its connected to a vac line so if you have a vac leak, you can see it on the gauge.

Sent from my droid using my fingers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
On a side note t trims have a 3 3/4 outlet for the powerpipe and the s trims have 3 1/2 measure the headunit when you get it or before you buy it and make sure you're actually getting a t trim. One thing vortech told me to do when I called
Well it's got t trim engraved on the back so I think it is ;) reminds me I need to call with the serial # though.
A traditional a/f gauge is a series of lights that go from yellow to green to red. Tells you nothing about your afr.

Get a wideband, they are a bit more money, but it actually tells you your afr. Most go from 10.x-17.

And a boost gauge does more than tell you if the s/c is working correctly. Its connected to a vac line so if you have a vac leak, you can see it on the gauge.

Sent from my droid using my fingers.
I just want to know if I'm running lean. I'll get a wideband eventually, but I'm going to hold off for a little while.

---------- Post added at 07:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:05 PM ----------

Your impeller does not look good....:(
Really? He said no shaft play and I thought it looked a little messed up. Bad idea? I haven't paid yet :p

---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------

Is the impeller really that bad? :(

---------- Post added at 09:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

Any other input on the impeller? :dunno
 

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Don't use that 6" pulley. You'll make less boost. Stock is 6.5". If you want to make more boost you use an overdrive (bigger) balancer pulley.

Also like I said in a PM I would be very cautious with that blower. Looks like he ran it no filter and rocks chipped away at it. If I got it, and it would have to be for $400-500 I would send it in for a full rebuild. Which minimum is $380 for seals and bearings. Not sure how much more for the impeller.

Supercharger rebuilds sells impellers. It would be really easy to do yourself. Just make sure you torque it. If you can't find out the torque specs for the but on the impeller just ask supercharger rebuilds.


Also, wideband, you can get a new AEM On eBay for like $160. Then a boost vac gauge, I think is important. It'll tell you if your having belt slippage, or a vacuum leak.
 

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Generally people always have boost gauge, I consider it a necessity..
 
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