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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is am's/bama/sct the best or should i go with something else? also am says on their site and the guy i talked to their says stock even bolt on 99-04gt's get 15-20whp and 20-30lbs trq is that honesstly true from a tune? if not what in all honesty?
 

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I've heard that the bama tunes are decent. You won't see 15-20rwhp out of a stock GT. If your car is a stick you will hardly feel a difference from the tune with your mods. Auto's respond a little better to a tune. Realistically think 10rwhp.
 

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You are mostly stock. The performance mods listed in your signature are mostly supporting mods. You will probably gain horsepower by going to a 93 octane tune. Who gives you that tune is up to you.
 

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Any new-edge, even dead stock, will benefit from a good tune, even an "87 octane tune". The stock tune is very conservative in both timing and fueling, running 2° to 3° less than optimal timing and pig-rich (11.5:1 or richer) at WOT.

This is to make sure even the most ignorant Yahoo, running the worst swill gasoline, cannot blow the engine while it's under warranty.

Run it on premium fuel (93 if you can get t) with a decent tune and you will smile.

In this order:
  1. Open up the exhaust, 2-1/2" from the manifold back--catted or not, other than noise it really doesn't make any difference;
  2. Buy a tuner, pick one depending on how involved you wish to be (the DF Commando package is great if YOU wish to tune it yourself);
  3. Then gears, 3.73 or 4.10s as you prefer--I like 3.73s as 4.10s make 1st gear last about 3 seconds before hitting the rev-limiter);
  4. TB/plenum, the stock upper plenum if a weak point;

The rest of the popular bolt-ons (CAI, UDPs, etc.) are fluff; CAI in particular, the OEM intake is a CAI and not a bad one at that...
 

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The tune is definitely worth it. It's not as dramatic of a difference as the drive-by-wire vehicles from 2005+, so it gets misconstrued between the generations. You won't notice a huge difference until you're moderate-full throttle. If you're automatic, you'll notice that it shifts firmer and at different shift points. You'll naturally get a little bit of throttle response out of it, and the part throttle timing might even make the car feel a little more crisp. All around it's something that you definitely notice. Stock PI-head 2V's are definitely going to pick up as much as 20RWHP on premium fuel if they measure peak numbers, just from allowing us to optimize the WOT air/fuel ratio and timing.

If you have absolutely any questions, whatsoever, please feel free to give the Bama team a call directly at the number/hours in my signature and they can go over common results, technical details, etc.

Good luck, I think you'll be happy with your decision!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any new-edge, even dead stock, will benefit from a good tune, even an "87 octane tune". The stock tune is very conservative in both timing and fueling, running 2° to 3° less than optimal timing and pig-rich (11.5:1 or richer) at WOT.

This is to make sure even the most ignorant Yahoo, running the worst swill gasoline, cannot blow the engine while it's under warranty.

Run it on premium fuel (93 if you can get t) with a decent tune and you will smile.

In this order:
  1. Open up the exhaust, 2-1/2" from the manifold back--catted or not, other than noise it really doesn't make any difference;
  2. Buy a tuner, pick one depending on how involved you wish to be (the DF Commando package is great if YOU wish to tune it yourself);
  3. Then gears, 3.73 or 4.10s as you prefer--I like 3.73s as 4.10s make 1st gear last about 3 seconds before hitting the rev-limiter);
  4. TB/plenum, the stock upper plenum if a weak point;

The rest of the popular bolt-ons (CAI, UDPs, etc.) are fluff; CAI in particular, the OEM intake is a CAI and not a bad one at that...
so that being said since the factory tune is for safety so it dont blow the engine, will a high octane tune/tuner ultimatly cause engine problems in the long run?
 

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so that being said since the factory tune is for safety so it dont blow the engine, will a high octane tune/tuner ultimatly cause engine problems in the long run?
The OEM tune was designed to be 110% idiot proof, so if you are an idiot then it would perhaps be wise to stick with the stock tune.

However is you are not (an idiot), then there's quite a bit to be gained from a mail-order or canned tune from a handheld--with very little to no affect on engine life.

Mail-order and canned handheld tunes (MOACTs) are also conservative by nature, just not as conservative as the factory tune--the last thing a provider of MOACTs needs is to get a reputation for blowing engines. And as each engine is inherently different, and operates under differing conditions, MOACTs have to be a bit back from the bleeding edge to ensure they are "safe".

All that said, most handheld and PC based tuning systems do allow for further adjustment of timing and fueling parameters--if you don't know what you are doing it is possible to damage the engine by mucking about in these zones.

The good news is that it is also quite possible for a regular human being to learn how to tune a modern EFI engine--it's not even difficult once you gather the KSAs (Knowledge, Skills, and Abilities), and tools to do so.

Greg Banish's Engine Management: Advanced Tuning book is a great place to start...
 

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not trying to hijack thread but i do have a question about the subject. when i bought my 02gt the guy said it had a "custom tune" but theres no proof of it. now if i got a bama tune or something like that would there be any way to go back to the tune thats in it now if i found it to be worse?
 

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not trying to hijack thread but i do have a question about the subject. when i bought my 02gt the guy said it had a "custom tune" but theres no proof of it. now if i got a bama tune or something like that would there be any way to go back to the tune thats in it now if i found it to be worse?
If indeed you do have a "custom" tune, any of the tuning tools that "marry" themselves to a particular vehicle would download that tune, and consider it to be the "stock" tune--and this is where the problems begin.

Most (maybe all) of the handheld and PC based tuning systems use what they first downloaded, and consider to be the stock tune, to be the basis for for further modifications--both those made automagically by the user's selection of octane, mods, etc.--and those made from specific user input to tweak timing and fueling.

Obviously is a tuning system is making changes to what it thinks is a stock tune, but which is in reality NOT a stock tune, there is potential for changes that might push things beyond safe settings.

The good news is that any shop using the professional version of any of the major tuning system brands should be able to download your tune and determine if it is OEM or custom. If you plan on buying a tuning system you will need to have this done, and if needed have a stock tune loaded before you do anything with the tuning system.
 

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ok that cleared up a lot thanks. if i were to do anything though id probably be going with a "canned tune" like the free tunes for life. i have some simple mods like cai, upper c&l manifold, steeda udp's, upgraded alternator, short throw shifter, off road h pipe, flowmaster catback. the guy i bought it from says it has bigger injectors, maf, p products throttle body and 3.73s but i have no proof of any of that...

**edit... has anyone even heard of a p products throttle body? i just did a search for one to see what im looking for and found nothing..
 
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