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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just was wondering whats a good but not too costly welder to get to weld up my roll cage?
 

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if you just want to weld your roll cage it will cost less and be better to have it done for you.. a desent welder for that kind of job is from 5 to 8 hundred.
 

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u might be able to rent a welder from somewhere for alot cheaper...but a roll cage isnt something u want to learn to weld on espiecally your own.lol
 

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u might be able to rent a welder from somewhere for alot cheaper...but a roll cage isnt something u want to learn to weld on espiecally your own.lol
My dad has been in the welding supply industry for almost 30 years now.

I have a millermatic 135 and i love it, and it would be perfect for welding mild steel roll cages.

LiKE Sean said they are going to cost you anywhere from 5-8 hundred and the only two welders i would even think about buying is a lincoln or a miller.

When it comes to welders do not buy junk or you will be sorry.
 

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go to lowes and buy a mig , they're cheap enough, will do a good job , are pretty easy to use, and you will find a million other uses for 1, you also don't need any special outlets for them either , they just plug into any ordinary wall socket
i bought a lincoln and i absolutely love it, a buddy of mine and i put my cage in with it





 

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go to lowes and buy a mig , they're cheap enough, will do a good job , are pretty easy to use, and you will find a million other uses for 1, you also don't need any special outlets for them either , they just plug into any ordinary wall socket
i bought a lincoln and i absolutely love it, a buddy of mine and i put my cage in with it





yes most small migs use 110 v
 

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if u have the extra money a welder is a great investment just practice before u do the cage.
 

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how do put the carpet back in with a cage in there.....wouldnt you have to cut it up to lay it around the cage bars
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i've welded exhaust systems before and and want to get a welder for other misc. stuff also. Plus i'll have a friend assist me that has lots of experience(atleast i hope cuz he a very busy guy)
 

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miller all the way....have been welding for 6 years an i am a certified welder...mig would be easy to use and easy to weld with once you get it set right. you get what you pay for in welders...just my 2 cents
 

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Keep in mind that if you go to the track and need that cage to conform to rules, you will need a copy of the welder's certifications who welded your cage. Also, some track techs will go over your cage meticulously to check for any defects.
 

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donot grind those welds,,,I done that in tube chassis stang ..they made me replace the cage..
100% true story. I have seen that happen numerous times to guys who were trying to make their welds look better. Weld caps and crowns are left for a reason- reinforcement. A concave fillet weld has very little strength when compared to a convex fillet weld.
 

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Keep in mind that if you go to the track and need that cage to conform to rules, you will need a copy of the welder's certifications who welded your cage. Also, some track techs will go over your cage meticulously to check for any defects.
hmmm, I welded my cage and ground down the door welds and my track officials didn't say anything or ask for any certification. They just checked the thickness of the bars and location and took a quick peek to make sure the welds looked OK.
 

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hmmm, I welded my cage and ground down the door welds and my track officials didn't say anything or ask for any certification. They just checked the thickness of the bars and location and took a quick peek to make sure the welds looked OK.
I'm sure some tracks are not as stringent as others.
 

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hmmm, I welded my cage and ground down the door welds and my track officials didn't say anything or ask for any certification. They just checked the thickness of the bars and location and took a quick peek to make sure the welds looked OK.
OK, I reread some things after you posted that. I t is suggested to have a certified welder to do your work in one of the NHRA's publications, but it is not a requirement. That's the first time I've been wrong.........











































in the past hour.......
 

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Nothing wrong with doing it yourself. You need a minimum 130 mig welder, Miller is my preference. Go on line and pay the $10.00 for either the NHRA or IHRA rule book (I buy both every year) which ever sanctioning body governs the track (s) you frequent and install the roll bar accordingly. The rule book breaks down what type of roll bar / cage you need depending on your anticipated min. ET / max speed plus gives you layout parameters. Like stated above , NO GRINDING ALLOWED. There are instructions (PDF format) from Comp Engineering that are downloadable on Summits site in the catalog section for roll bars. This will give you a feel for what's involved and whether you want to tackle the job or not.
 
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