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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
American Muscle has a sale on a BBK LCA's and UCA package non adjustables, but it's only for November, so I'm wondering if I got 18" GT4 wheels, with I'm not sure what size tire, and lowering springs, maybe the Steeda's that drop ~1 inch or if I need be, the Eibachs for ~ 1.5 inches, would this keep the stock ride height, which would mean I could get the non adjustable CA's and not mess up the angle of the drive line, wheels and whatever else (C&C plates will adjust the front alignment.


Break down:

With the increased ride height from the wheels and tires (16" stock rims to 18" GT4...dunno what size tire) and the lowered height of springs, will this even out so that I can get non adjustable control arms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Would a 2" larger diameter wheel not increase the ride height, as long as the tire side wall stays the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure what the tire height of my stockers is now, but if I increased the wheel height by 2", decreased the wheel height by 1" (I doubt the after market tires would have the same sidewall height, and then decreased chassis height by 1", does this not even everything out?

0+2-1-1=0 Shouldn't I just be back to where I started, essentially?
 

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Juco is correct, so long as you account for the OVERALL diameter of the tire.

Example:
195/65/15" = 25"
255/35/18" = 25"

Generally speaking, when you go up in wheel diameter, you usually go down in profile hight or percentage. Personally, I would NOT recommend ***THIS*** kit from AM if you want ANYTHING but an improvement in launching. They are going backwards in terms of addressing the twisty. Would MUCH rather see you go the following for an improvement in BOTH the 1/4 and the quarner ;):

J&M Extreme Joint UCA $180
J&M Extreme Joint LCA's $190

For an additional $90, you will improve your performance on all endeavors in your ride. You will get a bit more NVH with these parts, but a smoother oporating rear suspension and the ability to address pinion angle as well for the launch.

Jazzer :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Juco is correct, so long as you account for the OVERALL diameter of the tire.

Example:
195/65/15" = 25"
255/35/18" = 25"

Generally speaking, when you go up in wheel diameter, you usually go down in profile hight or percentage. Personally, I would NOT recommend ***THIS*** kit from AM if you want ANYTHING but an improvement in launching. They are going backwards in terms of addressing the twisty. Would MUCH rather see you go the following for an improvement in BOTH the 1/4 and the quarner ;):

J&M Extreme Joint UCA $180
J&M Extreme Joint LCA's $190

For an additional $90, you will improve your performance on all endeavors in your ride. You will get a bit more NVH with these parts, but a smoother oporating rear suspension and the ability to address pinion angle as well for the launch.

Jazzer :)
Finally some honest advice on the control arms. The vendors are nice sometimes, but they are always pushing their products and don't even consider other options. I don't want just the straights to be good, the twisties are fun too!

Ok so I will need to get the adjustable CA's b/c I will more than likely be doing the wheels this summer, and lowering it will be likely soon to follow that.
 

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The adjustable LCA's can be a bit of an advantage in centering the wheel once a car is lowered, but can set to stock length pert' near 100% of the time and be fine. The adjustable UCA is key to address pinion angle if you are going to get into the 1/4 mile. The relocation brackets are a good idea to get the LCA's back to a proper angle for a good hook off the line.

Remember, the parts I recommended will bring a bit more noise into your ride, but not much. Going lower profile tires will do the same thing, but a bit worse.

Jazzer :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya the poly bushings aren't as quiet as the soft stock ones, but with exhaust I don't think I will hear much control arm noise. When I end up getting CA's I'll go with adjustables.

Thanks :D
 

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I wanna help you here but I am trying to figure out exactly what you want this car to be able to accomplish for you in the end.


if all you wanna do is put x rim on your car figure out the the tire diamiter of what you want, the figure out the tire diamiter of what you have, then we can work from there.

you might not need as many parts as you think if thats all your doing.



so is all your doing is trying to get x rim and tire on your car and end at stock ride hieght or is there more to it than that?
 

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I think the OP is a little confused. When we talk about ride height, generally we are refering to the stance of the car, not actually how high you are sitting. If you just change tires and rims you will not need to do anything to your suspension. Your actual suspension geometry will not change. Your axel and A-arms will remain in the same in relationship to the rest of the car and you can use stock length control arms. Now if you throw springs into the mix, well then you are changing the ride height of the suspension in relationship to the chassis. This is where you need to incorporate the use of adjustable suspension parts. Minimum here is adj. panhard bar and an adj. UCA with fixed length LCA's to get your suspension somewhat back to normal. Depending on how far you drop it. LCA relocation brackets may be needed also. I would also suggest new dampners if you are changing springs also but it is not a necessity. I ran stock dampners with my Eibachs for a few months before installing my Bilsteins.
 

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Good info :D

The OP is considering a 1"~1.5" or so drop via new springs, per original post (kinda confusing though). I think he may be trying to do the math as to where the ride hight would be via combonation of lower springs and change in wheel diameter. I think that the info given thus far will provide the answers with some consideration.

Jazzer :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think the OP is a little confused. When we talk about ride height, generally we are refering to the stance of the car, not actually how high you are sitting. If you just change tires and rims you will not need to do anything to your suspension. Your actual suspension geometry will not change. Your axel and A-arms will remain in the same in relationship to the rest of the car and you can use stock length control arms. Now if you throw springs into the mix, well then you are changing the ride height of the suspension in relationship to the chassis. This is where you need to incorporate the use of adjustable suspension parts. Minimum here is adj. panhard bar and an adj. UCA with fixed length LCA's to get your suspension somewhat back to normal. Depending on how far you drop it. LCA relocation brackets may be needed also. I would also suggest new dampners if you are changing springs also but it is not a necessity. I ran stock dampners with my Eibachs for a few months before installing my Bilsteins.
Yeah this is what I was confused about. I thought if I increased the ride height with wheels and tires, then dropped it with springs, it would all even out, but that's not how it works.

On two other forums, I copy and pasted this exact same thread, but on one I got no replies but on the other, I was also told that I would only need to get the adj, UCA and I could have fixed LCA's. This will save some money, but is this the right way to go? I will drop it no more than 1.5", so you are probably correct. I may just end up getting the Steeda springs, which drop 1". Is the adj, panhard necessary too? I don't want to skimp out on parts that I need, but it's still a V6 at the end of the day, so I don't need to go really far.

I want to eliminate wheel hop in the straight line, and still be able to corner like I'm on rails. I called I good Mustang shop today and asked them a few questions about brand names, and they said they prefer Griggs and Maximum Motorsports, but the BMR's would be good as well. He said I might want a combo of a spherical UCA bushing and the poly LCA bushings. Thoughts?

I know these posts are probably confusing, but that's because I'm not totally sure what I'm looking at with all this stuff. Ask and I'll try to clarify.
 

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Yeah this is what I was confused about. I thought if I increased the ride height with wheels and tires, then dropped it with springs, it would all even out, but that's not how it works.

On two other forums, I copy and pasted this exact same thread, but on one I got no replies but on the other, I was also told that I would only need to get the adj, UCA and I could have fixed LCA's. This will save some money, but is this the right way to go? I will drop it no more than 1.5", so you are probably correct. I may just end up getting the Steeda springs, which drop 1". Is the adj, panhard necessary too? I don't want to skimp out on parts that I need, but it's still a V6 at the end of the day, so I don't need to go really far.

I want to eliminate wheel hop in the straight line, and still be able to corner like I'm on rails. I called I good Mustang shop today and asked them a few questions about brand names, and they said they prefer Griggs and Maximum Motorsports, but the BMR's would be good as well. He said I might want a combo of a spherical UCA bushing and the poly LCA bushings. Thoughts?

I know these posts are probably confusing, but that's because I'm not totally sure what I'm looking at with all this stuff. Ask and I'll try to clarify.
You will be fine with an adjustable UCA and non-adjustable LCA's for sure. It is just that most good LCA's that have a spherical end are adjustable, so keeps options open. So.... YES, I would certainly aggree that a poly/spherical LCA would be the way to go and what I run on my own car. I would recommend an adjustable PHB, as your rear end will be moved to the drivers side a bit due to the arc of the PHB and its travel. Once lowered, you will very likely see the imbalance from the rear.

As for still being a V6 at the day.....? it is your ride and should enjoy it EVERY day :yes It makes absolutely zero difference what is under the hood and can actually be benificial as you have less weight up front. Hell, look at my car. I am running a full Griggs GR-40/SLA suspension, 10" & 11" wheels wrapped in R888's with a staggering 248 HP (can I get a whoo hoo!)

Who says you need high HP to run the twisties.... I sure as hell don't and my car eats them alive :cool:

The Jaz :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You will be fine with an adjustable UCA and non-adjustable LCA's for sure. It is just that most good LCA's that have a spherical end are adjustable, so keeps options open. So.... YES, I would certainly aggree that a poly/spherical LCA would be the way to go and what I run on my own car. I would recommend an adjustable PHB, as your rear end will be moved to the drivers side a bit due to the arc of the PHB and its travel. Once lowered, you will very likely see the imbalance from the rear.

As for still being a V6 at the day.....? it is your ride and should enjoy it EVERY day :yes It makes absolutely zero difference what is under the hood and can actually be benificial as you have less weight up front. Hell, look at my car. I am running a full Griggs GR-40/SLA suspension, 10" & 11" wheels wrapped in R888's with a staggering 248 HP (can I get a whoo hoo!)

Who says you need high HP to run the twisties.... I sure as hell don't and my car eats them alive :cool:

The Jaz :)
Nice! What good is power is you can't use it? I'm making a list of all the stuff I hope to get done. Thanks:)
 
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